Almost sounds like the electrical panel in the driver’s side kick panel (US version) maybe got wet? Windshield leaking and dripping down there? Otherwise, maybe a low battery that causes it to act strangely?
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (16 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Overdue clean up. Minor correction, leather treatment, and ceramic on the windshield. Not bad for 125k miles and climbing!
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prharper
GOLD Star
@FerrisBueller Did you have to remove anything on the Rhino bumper? I'm going to eventually have to replace my serpentine belt.
Nope. Bumper stayed intact. Doing it that way meant I had to leave one of the side rails from the old radiator in place, which made it a little tricky getting the old radiator out and new radiator in. Removing the bumper would make radiator replacement easier, but not worth it in my opinion. If all you're doing is replacing the serpentine belt (no radiator), then there's absolutely no reason to touch the bumper.
prharper
GOLD Star
That's great news! I have the updated radiator. Really don't want to deal with re-adjusting the Rhino front bumper center and wings.
Gutted the AHC system and replaced it with a full Dobinson MMR suspension (UCA's, LCA's, panhard rod, etc..), replaced the CV axles, Steering rack, and did a decent shake down. I couldn't get the rear sway bar back in so I still have to figure that out. Does anybody have experience with the suspension settings? The goal is to have a few settings written down based upon the configuration I am running.
@turbo8 Thanks for heads up, it was actually your thread on AHC deletion that gave me the idea to gut the AHC in the first place. Thank you for your service.
Happy to help. I started with the baseline settings that Dobson recommends and then made 1 adjustment at a time and drove for a while. I'll have to go count the clicks but I'm like +3 on HSC and +4 on LSC all around above base settings. Ride of course depends on your rig and is really subjective.
Sounds like a solid starting point. The rig is on the heavy side so I'm going to start with the constant load setting according to the manual and then add what you suggested. And then of course rinse and repeat until I get my warm and fuzzy. Appreciate the assist peeps.
Julian73
SILVER Star
Just received the Redarc BCDC Alpha 50 and will be gutting the BCDC 40D
prharper
GOLD Star
Looks like a nice form factor for 50A and has BT. Curious what else convinced you to upgrade?
It's double the price of the new Victron 50a DC-DC box. But the Victron is IP65 vs IP67 of the Redarc. So i guess depending on where you plan to mount it, the extra cost is probably worth it. Looks like a nice piece of kit as well.
What is the Victron total price (and size) though when added to their MPPT?
The Victron XS is 140mmx125mmx40mm. I didn't realize the Redarc had MPPT. So that does improve the cost comparison.
I was more thinking about the combined size for the Victron with needing to add both the DCDC and MPPT. That seems like a prohibitive footprint if mounted under hood. Not sure if anything else is required in that combo or which device acts as the referee to keep from over charging a Li Batt. The Redarc has solar priority and will pull that first to keep the load off the alt.
I do wish Redarc Alpha had shore-power input. That's a handy feature. It would add size for sure. The Manager 30 has it and that thing is too big for an SUV (IMO). Works well in a camper.
Final draft of my soft attic for the third row.
I liked the idea of the shelves that a few vendors make but I don’t like the idea of them being rigid.
I purchased the Kaon third row handle delete brackets for the hardware so I would have some anchor points. The rest came from Amazon. The cargo net had to be modified a bit. I used a hot knife to cut off 2 of the 5 straps of webbing. Each long end has two straps for wrapping around the Jeep roll bar with Velcro to stick the two pieces together. On each corner, I cut off one of the two straps and removed the Velcro from the remaining strap. Installed a tri glide buckle and wrapped it through the tie downs. It took a bit to get the tension correct but it works great.
This is an update to a previous post. I wasn’t happy with how the cargo webbing mounted to the anchor points.
I liked the idea of the shelves that a few vendors make but I don’t like the idea of them being rigid.
I purchased the Kaon third row handle delete brackets for the hardware so I would have some anchor points. The rest came from Amazon. The cargo net had to be modified a bit. I used a hot knife to cut off 2 of the 5 straps of webbing. Each long end has two straps for wrapping around the Jeep roll bar with Velcro to stick the two pieces together. On each corner, I cut off one of the two straps and removed the Velcro from the remaining strap. Installed a tri glide buckle and wrapped it through the tie downs. It took a bit to get the tension correct but it works great.
This is an update to a previous post. I wasn’t happy with how the cargo webbing mounted to the anchor points.
I like this.
Nice! I played with an attic and coudln't get it to my liking. Good job there!
What does the Kaon anchors look like? If there were a way to get another set of anchors spaced further apart than just the two handle positions, that would be the ticket for me to try again.
I don't think many Victron products are rugged enough for under hood. They do make an IP67 shore charger, not none of the other chargers.
