What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (19 Viewers)

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okay so you painted some stuff :yawn:... But that positive battery terminal is bazinga! tell us about it?
Slee terminal and cover along with BlueSea Dual Terminal Fuse block (2151), trimmed down length, to support link to 2nd battery and BDBC, pending battery installation.
 
Where did you get / what is that paint? Not looking to paint my cover, but maybe some tow points or whatnot.
This was done by a body shop; I've previously had Slee equipment brackets, tow hooks and Bud Built under trays powder coated to a dark stain bronze. I just give them a wheel center cap to match to.
 
I am wiring the rear to my LX.
Adding an inverter, refrigerator, a bunch of sockets/usb and then all the lighting to come from rear bumper.

i had to pull out my Dobinson drawers and most of the interior. I passed (6) 12 awg cables that will go to a VOswitch uv100.
I am also debating wether to put my arb twin air compressor behind box instead of on the slee mount I have. I think would be better for longevity in cab.

i need some help with one thing. I was able to barely get the (6) 12 awg under the steps in the cab. There are already many large cables there.

i still have to pass (3) 4 awg.
Where is everyone passing large awg cables? Outside or inside? Any tips appreciated. Pics below. What routing did you take inside or outside?

pro tip: when sliding cables through the rubber firewall grommets a bit of dish soap on cables goes a long way to make it super smooth.

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I am wiring the rear to my LX.
Adding an inverter, refrigerator, a bunch of sockets/usb and then all the lighting to come from rear bumper.

i had to pull out my Dobinson drawers and most of the interior. I passed (6) 12 awg cables that will go to a VOswitch uv100.
I am also debating wether to put my arb twin air compressor behind box instead of on the slee mount I have. I think would be better for longevity in cab.

i need some help with one thing. I was able to barely get the (6) 12 awg under the steps in the cab. There are already many large cables there.

i still have to pass (3) 4 awg.
Where is everyone passing large awg cables? Outside or inside? Any tips appreciated. Pics below. What routing did you take inside or outside?

pro tip: when sliding cables through the rubber firewall grommets a bit of dish soap on cables goes a long way to make it super smooth.

View attachment 2774601View attachment 2774604View attachment 2774607

I would mount the Arb in the engine bay for a few reasons. It draws significant amperage so should be close to the batt, and reduces long wire runs and associated weight. It produces significant amounts of heat. It is rated for mounting externally.

As you have an LX, make sure to cut and keep some of the engine bay covers, particularly the sections ahead of the radiator. They're integral for managing airflow through the radiator.
 
I would mount the Arb in the engine bay for a few reasons. It draws significant amperage so should be close to the batt, and reduces long wire runs and associated weight. It produces significant amounts of heat. It is rated for mounting externally.

As you have an LX, make sure to cut and keep some of the engine bay covers, particularly the sections ahead of the radiator. They're integral for managing airflow through the radiator.
Thanks for the tip. I do have the covers for the engine just everything is disassembled due to my work in progress. I will post a picture but have dual batts and redarc charger.
Although I still need to run large gauge for the inverter.
 
I would mount the Arb in the engine bay for a few reasons. It draws significant amperage so should be close to the batt, and reduces long wire runs and associated weight. It produces significant amounts of heat. It is rated for mounting externally.

As you have an LX, make sure to cut and keep some of the engine bay covers, particularly the sections ahead of the radiator. They're integral for managing airflow through the radiator.
Also it's LOUD
 
I am wiring the rear to my LX.
Adding an inverter, refrigerator, a bunch of sockets/usb and then all the lighting to come from rear bumper.

i had to pull out my Dobinson drawers and most of the interior. I passed (6) 12 awg cables that will go to a VOswitch uv100.
I am also debating wether to put my arb twin air compressor behind box instead of on the slee mount I have. I think would be better for longevity in cab.

i need some help with one thing. I was able to barely get the (6) 12 awg under the steps in the cab. There are already many large cables there.

i still have to pass (3) 4 awg.
Where is everyone passing large awg cables? Outside or inside? Any tips appreciated. Pics below. What routing did you take inside or outside?

pro tip: when sliding cables through the rubber firewall grommets a bit of dish soap on cables goes a long way to make it super smooth.

View attachment 2774601View attachment 2774604View attachment 2774607
Why not run some of them along the driver's side? There's a bunch of room in that door sill... more than on the passenger's side I think.

Why run 6x 12ga plus 3x 4ga? That's a lot of wire. Do you really need 240A+ available in the rear? (Note I'm assuming these are only + wires and your - goes to a vehicle ground rather than back to the battery, but if not I suggest doing that to reduce your # of wires).
 
Why not run some of them along the driver's side? There's a bunch of room in that door sill... more than on the passenger's side I think.

Why run 6x 12ga plus 3x 4ga? That's a lot of wire. Do you really need 240A+ available in the rear? (Note I'm assuming these are only + wires and your - goes to a vehicle ground rather than back to the battery, but if not I suggest doing that to reduce your # of wires).
Thanks, i already have the drivers side opened up.

it is a 2000w inverter so at full load it is over 150 amps. At this point I only need about 4 12awg (all positive) but I am future proofing because removing everything is a pain.

i could go down to 2 4awg for the inverter, but was also thinking about any future needs also.

thanks for feedback
 
I agree on the compressor. Why pay the big bucks for a under-hood rated compressor then not mount it under the hood? That and all the electrical reasons.

I spent considerably less on my Viair, but it is IP67 rated, so that's mostly what you are paying for. My 20gallon compressor in my shed was the same price as my tiny Viair.
 
I am wiring the rear to my LX.
Adding an inverter, refrigerator, a bunch of sockets/usb and then all the lighting to come from rear bumper.

i had to pull out my Dobinson drawers and most of the interior. I passed (6) 12 awg cables that will go to a VOswitch uv100.
I am also debating wether to put my arb twin air compressor behind box instead of on the slee mount I have. I think would be better for longevity in cab.

i need some help with one thing. I was able to barely get the (6) 12 awg under the steps in the cab. There are already many large cables there.

i still have to pass (3) 4 awg.
Where is everyone passing large awg cables? Outside or inside? Any tips appreciated. Pics below. What routing did you take inside or outside?

pro tip: when sliding cables through the rubber firewall grommets a bit of dish soap on cables goes a long way to make it super smooth.

View attachment 2774601View attachment 2774604View attachment 2774607

Curious why you pulled the carpet for the dobinsons. I left mine in.
 
I agree on the compressor. Why pay the big bucks for a under-hood rated compressor then not mount it under the hood? That and all the electrical reasons.

I spent considerably less on my Viair, but it is IP67 rated, so that's mostly what you are paying for. My 20gallon compressor in my shed was the same price as my tiny Viair.
Arb actually make a nice mount that goes in the rear under the plastic panels.
I know it is rated for it but I live in Texas and it gets quite hot, and thought could extend life by having inside.
 
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Thanks, i already have the drivers side opened up.

it is a 2000w inverter so at full load it is over 150 amps. At this point I only need about 4 12awg (all positive) but I am future proofing because removing everything is a pain.

i could go down to 2 4awg for the inverter, but was also thinking about any future needs also.

thanks for feedback
Totally understand the idea of future-proofing something like this.

What about running a single 4ga for all the smaller circuits and using a fuse block in the rear? Granted 4ga is a lot thicker so I'm sure if the total wire volume is more or less. Maybe TXL or another thinner shell automotive wire would help as well?

Alternately, you could run the wiring underneath the vehicle in a wire loom against the frame and then pop it up into the rear. There's a grommet designed for this in the cubby which houses the jack - feed in and seal it with RTV.
 
Arb actually make a nice mount that goes in the rear under the plastic panels.
I know it is rated for it but I live in Texas and it gets quite hot, and thought could extend life a but by having inside.
I think you have to remove the subwoofer for this to work.
 
Arb actually make a nice mount that goes in the rear under the plastic panels.
I know it is rated for it but I live in Texas and it gets quite hot, and thought could extend life a but by having inside.

I think you have to remove the subwoofer for this to work.


I installed the ARB bracket into my 2008 for US model test-fitting, and there were several things that needed to be modified for it to work properly. The subwoofer assembly needed to be removed, and the plastic interior quarter trim panel needed to be changed to a non-US version (or severly hacked up). I think there were a couple other issues as well.

I actually have an ARB single (CKMA12) mounted in the quarter panel of my 80 (very similar to where the ARB bracket would mount it in the 200) and I regret putting it there. It is VERY loud in there, and it actually gets hotter there than it would under the hood. Hot enough that I had to mount a small 12v fan to move air in/out of the quarter panel to keep it from overheating. If starting from scratch, I'd 100% mount it under the hood.
 
Curious why you pulled the carpet for the dobinsons. I left mine in.
I installed the ARB bracket into my 2008 for US model test-fitting, and there were several things that needed to be modified for it to work properly. The subwoofer assembly needed to be removed, and the plastic interior quarter trim panel needed to be changed to a non-US version (or severly hacked up). I think there were a couple other issues as well.

I actually have an ARB single (CKMA12) mounted in the quarter panel of my 80 (very similar to where the ARB bracket would mount it in the 200) and I regret putting it there. It is VERY loud in there, and it actually gets hotter there than it would under the hood. Hot enough that I had to mount a small 12v fan to move air in/out of the quarter panel to keep it from overheating. If starting from scratch, I'd 100% mount it under the hood.
Thanks! definitely will be going under hood. Cheers
 

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