What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (48 Viewers)

[FamilyCamper]

8 new brake lines situated. Ran into an issue after everything was in where a small rust hole opened up on an existing rear hard line from moving it a little bit when installing a soft line but I had an extra line and was able to bend it to the correct shape. Glad to have some more reliable lines now. Big thanks to @Land Shark for coming over and helping me bleed them on a whim. Also thanks to @BurnsCrew for the suggestion on the FJ extended lines. Much cheaper and worked perfectly. Also shoutout to my daughter for the moral support!!

 

[T revorNobody]

Made this drawer box out of 3/4" Plywood and 1/2" Black Melamine. I wanted to mount my Milwaukee Packout Boxes on top of it and reach the tools in the ones in the back without needing to move any, so I made it be able to slid in and out like a bed slide.

 

[GerLC100]

8 new brake lines situated. Ran into an issue after everything was in where a small rust hole opened up on an existing rear hard line from moving it a little bit when installing a soft line but I had an extra line and was able to bend it to the correct shape. Glad to have some more reliable lines now. Big thanks to @Land Shark for coming over and helping me bleed them on a whim. Also thanks to @BurnsCrew for the suggestion on the FJ extended lines. Much cheaper and worked perfectly. Also shoutout to my daughter for the moral support!!View attachment 3635121View attachment 3635122

Which extended lines?

 

[aphex2k]

Hello! New member. What have I done to my Cruiser this week? Well... I bought it. (2004 v8 with 244,000km on the clock).

Picking it up on Weds. New to 4x4'ing and Cruisers. Total noob. Go easy on me!

 

[FamilyCamper]

Which extended lines?

FJ Cruiser/4Runner 20" Rear Extended Stainless Steel Brake Lines (Set of 2)

High quality D.O.T. certified stainless brake lines at a lower cost! These steel braided brake lines are 20" long. Lines come with new clips so there is no need to modify the factory clips in any way. These lines are made with an extruded teflon core, sta

trail-gear.com

 

[Asanka]

Hello! New member. What have I done to my Cruiser this week? Well... I bought it. (2004 v8 with 244,000km on the clock).

Picking it up on Weds. New to 4x4'ing and Cruisers. Total noob. Go easy on me!

Welcome!
Start from "new members read first" and "FAQ" on the 100 series section.

 

[xeuxaz]

Hello! New member. What have I done to my Cruiser this week? Well... I bought it. (2004 v8 with 244,000km on the clock).

Picking it up on Weds. New to 4x4'ing and Cruisers. Total noob. Go easy on me!

I hope your wallet is ready to be load tested. These forums are not good for budgets .

 

[Hercdriver87]

First off, I have received far more from this group than I have given, so thank you. Since I haven't seen anything on this little subject of parking brakes, I'll share what I did yesterday.

I drive in A LOT of snow and cold rain here in New England. The road salt lobby must be impressive given how much they throw down. Anyway I wash and rinse my underside as often as possible, but developed a completely corroded parking brake that was seized up completely. I failed to document the repair with photos so the parts diagram is all I have to offer. The key point is the lever and bellcrank corroded together through galvanic action due to the bellcrank being aluminum and the pivot pin and lever being steel. The interior brake assembly was is great shape so no actual work there just a full break down, wire wheel/brush, prime, paint and reassemble with grease on the pivot pins inside the bellcrank. The right side was so corroded that when I had the bellcrank in my vice trying to knock my pin out I actually broke the bellcrank in half. DAMMIT! I call the dealer and he says "I can get this to you next week". Ok, with new part on order and an overdue inspection sticker I go ahead and do what anyone else would and JB Welded that thing back together. Worked like a charm and the parking brake is as good as new. Inspection sticker in place.

Lessons learned:
1. Don't blast the undercarriage with too much water trying to rince the salt off
2. Keep the parking brake linkage lubed especially inside the rubber boot on the bellcrank and the pivot point mounted on the rear axle.

Thanks to the group for all the info that helps me keep my hundy running, I want to get another 5 years at least from her if I can keep the rust at bay.

 

[v8Billy]

This Weekend I installed a prototype wireless 4 button system, The Billy Bar, for my fog lights, light bar and ARB compressor. Not sure what to use the 4th output for yet. So far it's working awesome.

 

[ericbauer]

@Hercdriver87 i feel like you are the second person in the past week to replace a completely rusted out parking brake bell crank … crazy … unless you posted about it previously …

 

[Import Driver]

First off, I have received far more from this group than I have given, so thank you. Since I haven't seen anything on this little subject of parking brakes, I'll share what I did yesterday.

I drive in A LOT of snow and cold rain here in New England. The road salt lobby must be impressive given how much they throw down. Anyway I wash and rinse my underside as often as possible, but developed a completely corroded parking brake that was seized up completely. I failed to document the repair with photos so the parts diagram is all I have to offer. The key point is the lever and bellcrank corroded together through galvanic action due to the bellcrank being aluminum and the pivot pin and lever being steel. The interior brake assembly was is great shape so no actual work there just a full break down, wire wheel/brush, prime, paint and reassemble with grease on the pivot pins inside the bellcrank. The right side was so corroded that when I had the bellcrank in my vice trying to knock my pin out I actually broke the bellcrank in half. DAMMIT! I call the dealer and he says "I can get this to you next week". Ok, with new part on order and an overdue inspection sticker I go ahead and do what anyone else would and JB Welded that thing back together. Worked like a charm and the parking brake is as good as new. Inspection sticker in place.

Lessons learned:
1. Don't blast the undercarriage with too much water trying to rince the salt off
2. Keep the parking brake linkage lubed especially inside the rubber boot on the bellcrank and the pivot point mounted on the rear axle.

Thanks to the group for all the info that helps me keep my hundy running, I want to get another 5 years at least from her if I can keep the rust at bay.

View attachment 3635447

View attachment 3635448

Snap I think that's what's going on with mine. I need to do some more diagnostics before I dive in. My parking break lever wont move at all. And I can't seem to move the lines from underneath at the rear axle so I tend to think its not the cable.

 

[xeuxaz]

Finished the reservoir.

 

[Hercdriver87]

Snap I think that's what's going on with mine. I need to do some more diagnostics before I dive in. My parking break lever wont move at all. And I can't seem to move the lines from underneath at the rear axle so I tend to think its not the cable.

Likely correct. If you can pull the rubber boot away from the back of the brake hub where the lever arm is and inspect that pivot pin you’ll likely see it’s all gummed up. Hose it down with PB Plaster and tap it into the “brake off” postion. If it’s not too bad you may be able to just lube it and forget but mine was totally seized so I had to take all apart and clean it up.

 

[Hercdriver87]

@Hercdriver87 i feel like you are the second person in the past week to replace a completely rusted out parking brake bell crank … crazy … unless you posted about it previously …

First post on this subject for me but after years of New England winters it’s no suprise

 

[Import Driver]

Likely correct. If you can pull the rubber boot away from the back of the brake hub where the lever arm is and inspect that pivot pin you’ll likely see it’s all gummed up. Hose it down with PB Plaster and tap it into the “brake off” postion. If it’s not too bad you may be able to just lube it and forget but mine was totally seized so I had to take all apart and clean it up.

Not saying it's easy but it sounds easier to get to than I imagined. Thanks for the tips!

 

[Hercdriver87]

Not saying it's easy but it sounds easier to get to than I imagined. Thanks for the tips!

Fixing the rust was easier than dealing with the spring loaded origami drum brake. Well other than breaking my RH bellcrank trying hammer out the rusted pivot pin

 

[harrydunn]

I think my 12th or 13th trip to Moab since 2017. A group of 4 Jeeps was in front of us and one of them worked for onX and was taking photos so he took these 2 pics of my brother and I descending a section on Fin's and Things. I used to own both of these rigs but sold the LX to my brother. The 100 does fine but I do miss the lockers of the LX!

 

[BigFatHundo]

I think my 12th or 13th trip to Moab since 2017. A group of 4 Jeeps was in front of us and one of them worked for onX and was taking photos so he took these 2 pics of my brother and I descending a section on Fin's and Things. I used to own both of these rigs but sold the LX to my brother. The 100 does fine but I do miss the lockers of the LX!

View attachment 3636536
View attachment 3636537

Have you thought about adding lockers? I’ve done it to both of the 100s I’ve owned. Pretty simple process. You can even get the 80 series switch to work with the ARB lockers.

 

[harrydunn]

Have you thought about adding lockers? I’ve done it to both of the 100s I’ve owned. Pretty simple process. You can even get the 80 series switch to work with the ARB lockers.

View attachment 3636620

Yep, going front locker over the summer/fall. A-TRAC will handle the rest without a rear locker. Harrop.

 

[sterling]

Added LCP mud flap eliminators.
Well worth it and priced right!