What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (27 Viewers)

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Today I inspected and fixed some vacuum lines, cleaned the MAF, throttle body valve, checked my ignition coils, checked for loose spark plugs and inspected the timing belt.

I know it’s probably impossible to tell. But any idea how these ignition coils look? The second one from bottom is showing cracks. Superficial or replace? No rough idling or any symptoms present.

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I think it ran low on oil. Engine wasn't well cared for.

It's wild how many people just don't think to change the oil on vehicles. At one of the facilities I deal with, the winemaker didn't change the oil on the winery's RAM 1500. Engine seized at around 60K miles. Dead.
 
It's wild how many people just don't think to change the oil on vehicles. At one of the facilities I deal with, the winemaker didn't change the oil on the winery's RAM 1500. Engine seized at around 60K miles. Dead.
Have known way too many knuckle heads (think typical Altima owner stereotype) that legitimately thought their vehicle was a magical cloud on wheels that only needed gas to operate. Ironically, one of them was an Altima owner and his engine, of course, seized.
 
Today I inspected and fixed some vacuum lines, cleaned the MAF, throttle body valve, checked my ignition coils, checked for loose spark plugs and inspected the timing belt.

I know it’s probably impossible to tell. But any idea how these ignition coils look? The second one from bottom is showing cracks. Superficial or replace? No rough idling or any symptoms present.

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They look fine, but I would buy a new one to replace the cracked one, then keep that as a spare in case you have one go bad. If the rubber parts are hard, you can buy new rubber parts and springs for ~$30, IIRC.
 
They look fine, but I would buy a new one to replace the cracked one, then keep that as a spare in case you have one go bad. If the rubber parts are hard, you can buy new rubber parts and springs for ~$30, IIRC.
Yeah i've got a spare so wasn't sure if I should swap it out right away or just wait until any possible issues. Trying to figure out if it just makes sense to replace all of them with new ones and keep a few of the better looking factory ones as spares.

Gonna be doing a lot of summer traveling in this rig! Thanks for the reponse!
 
Yeah i've got a spare so wasn't sure if I should swap it out right away or just wait until any possible issues. Trying to figure out if it just makes sense to replace all of them with new ones and keep a few of the better looking factory ones as spares.

Gonna be doing a lot of summer traveling in this rig! Thanks for the reponse!

I recently replaced the 238k mile originals in my Tundra, 6 out of the 8 were cracked but the truck was still running fine. I prefer to have the peace of mind that I won't have to change them on the side of the road. I kept the two that looked ok even though that's no guarantee they're any good.
 
IMO worth getting the kit with replacement coil boots, seals and springs. denso coil rebuild kit (part #671-8184) is what you want.

I just cleaned mine up and redid the rubbers with this kit last month (my springs seemed good as new so I left the originals). Hoping it extends the service life of the coils - they are not cheap. Also put in new spark plugs at the same time, because I had them on the shelf from a previous parts sale.

Seems like it runs a bit better but could def. be placebo effect.

Original coils at 147k, new rubbers:

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I‘d do at least those that are hard to reach. The easy going ones you can swap quickly on a trail, but to disassemble half the engine bay is a different story
 
Carnage. Rebuilding my bell cranks (parking brake hardware). I have had some weird issues going on with my rear brakes. Now I know why!

My bell crank mount is completely shattered. I don't know how this is possible. Happy that I bought the complete kit from Cruiser parts.

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Method wheels with Ben’s spacers up front. AHC fully functional. Just replaced all fluids, TB, WP, steering rack and tie rod ends, heater T’s, all hoses, oil pan leak, etc

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Wanted to see how much work it is to remove the rear bumper in prep for my Dissent coming in in 2-3 weeks, but it was faster gone as I expected ^^

Got a few things for pick up in the Bay. Costs you the way to me and a six pack of your favorite beer.

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Now I just need to check how the exhaust will be hanging in the future

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~30min. Impact to loosen the hitch half inch to get to two bolts in the bumper.
Few hex heads in the wheel well, few clips, … easy peasy.

Took a few bolts out that I didn’t need to (mud flaps to bumper can stay on/ mud flat to chassis not).

Now I can properly cut out, clean, spray 2-3 layers, … before the bumper comes.
Front has the license plate. So will once I have everything I take apart the front, prepare incl spraying and while drying assemble the rear bumper. By the time I’m done I can start put the front on.
 
If you ever visit SoCal I'd take the trailer hitch. Mine has some surface rust from launching my boat a few times.
No plans during summer, sry. But in case you want to get away from the heat and head up north… :-)
 
Kind of a stretch for what I did with my LC100 today, but here I'll say it, that I found what I thought was a great deal on MaxTrax MK2's for my upcoming beach trip I'm planning in the LC100. I think for a hundred dollars cash and carry it was a steal. About 8 or 9 teeth total are flubbed up, but the rest are perfect. I ordered some new leashes for them for about 20 bucks, so I'm 120 invested in an otherwise 260 dollar pair of maxtrax. Facebook marketplace rules.

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Replaced my transmission mount today. Next up: engine mounts


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Seems like it runs a bit better but could def. be placebo effect.
I recently swapped out all plugs and coils (coils were originals) @ 230k miles. Couldn't tell any difference in how the truck runs but after a 700 mile trip this week, I'm consistently averaging 1-2 mpg more per tank of gas - averaged 14.1 mpg driving through the foothills of East Tennessee at 75+mph.

For the last few years I've been stuck at 12.7 mpg.

Only thing that's changed on the motor is the coils and plugs.

*shrugs*
 

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