What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (65 Viewers)

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Well the "clunk" finally drove me to insanity. I took it to Toyota and wound up having them do the following:
Both front axles and wheel bearings were smoked. This was the source of my 30 mph, let off the throttle and then accelerate again "clunk"
Transmission fluid flush.
Differentials fluid flush.
Transfer case fluid flush.
Power steering fluid flush.
Brake fluid flush.
Coolant flush.
Coolant lines and T fitting at firewall for heater core replacement.
PCV hose replacement.
Air filter box hose replacement.
Fuel filter replacement.
Throttle body/Injection cleaning.
Front brakes complete replacement.

Unfortunately, I opted not to replace my A/C compressor, condenser and expansion valves based on the fact that I was quoted another $7500.00. The compressor clutch failed last summer and filled the entire dual A/C system and lines with metal debris. It doesn't get that warm in Oregon.

This is a third vehicle that I'm extremely attached to. I've had it for nearly a decade and it has never left me stranded.
Hopefully this will keep it going for another 250k miles!
 
Well the "clunk" finally drove me to insanity. I took it to Toyota and wound up having them do the following:
Both front axles and wheel bearings were smoked. This was the source of my 30 mph, let off the throttle and then accelerate again "clunk"
Transmission fluid flush.
Differentials fluid flush.
Transfer case fluid flush.
Power steering fluid flush.
Brake fluid flush.
Coolant flush.
Coolant lines and T fitting at firewall for heater core replacement.
PCV hose replacement.
Air filter box hose replacement.
Fuel filter replacement.
Throttle body/Injection cleaning.
Front brakes complete replacement.

Unfortunately, I opted not to replace my A/C compressor, condenser and expansion valves based on the fact that I was quoted another $7500.00. The compressor clutch failed last summer and filled the entire dual A/C system and lines with metal debris. It doesn't get that warm in Oregon.

This is a third vehicle that I'm extremely attached to. I've had it for nearly a decade and it has never left me stranded.
Hopefully this will keep it going for another 250k miles!
Just a quick note since I’ve also experienced an annoying clunk on acceleration and de-cels for a while now. Have you checked to make sure the upper control arm bolts are tight? Im talking about the two bolts on both sides of the U shape. If alignment shops don’t tighten them down properly they can be loose enough to slide forward and backward just enough to clunk.
 
Just a quick note since I’ve also experienced an annoying clunk on acceleration and de-cels for a while now. Have you checked to make sure the upper control arm bolts are tight? Im talking about the two bolts on both sides of the U shape. If alignment shops don’t tighten them down properly they can be loose enough to slide forward and backward just enough to clunk.
I have not sir. I'm hopeful that the dealer checked that during their diagnosis of the clunk. I wrench on plenty of old garbage but the Land Cruiser has always been one of my vehicles that I've had serviced by the dealer. I guess that means I wanted it to stay "nice" lol.
 
I have not sir. I'm hopeful that the dealer checked that during their diagnosis of the clunk. I wrench on plenty of old garbage but the Land Cruiser has always been one of my vehicles that I've had serviced by the dealer. I guess that means I wanted it to stay "nice" lol.
Worth double checking yourself, just grab an appropriate size wrench and give it an ugga dugga. You can do it through the wheel opening without moving anything around or needing to lift it.

That was my experience with the clunk, anyways. Drove me mad for a solid few months.
 
Worth double checking yourself, just grab an appropriate size wrench and give it an ugga dugga. You can do it through the wheel opening without moving anything around or needing to lift it.

That was my experience with the clunk, anyways. Drove me mad for a solid few months.
Will do! Thank you.
 
Well the "clunk" finally drove me to insanity. I took it to Toyota and wound up having them do the following:
Both front axles and wheel bearings were smoked. This was the source of my 30 mph, let off the throttle and then accelerate again "clunk"
Transmission fluid flush.
Differentials fluid flush.
Transfer case fluid flush.
Power steering fluid flush.
Brake fluid flush.
Coolant flush.
Coolant lines and T fitting at firewall for heater core replacement.
PCV hose replacement.
Air filter box hose replacement.
Fuel filter replacement.
Throttle body/Injection cleaning.
Front brakes complete replacement.

Unfortunately, I opted not to replace my A/C compressor, condenser and expansion valves based on the fact that I was quoted another $7500.00. The compressor clutch failed last summer and filled the entire dual A/C system and lines with metal debris. It doesn't get that warm in Oregon.

This is a third vehicle that I'm extremely attached to. I've had it for nearly a decade and it has never left me stranded.
Hopefully this will keep it going for another 250k miles!
I bet that was a pretty penny to have the dealer do that
 
Getting spark plugs in my valve cover gasket because I was smelling burning oil and have a leak and 160k in miles on my 1998

My mechanic has three black hundred in the shop right now.
 
Hyper flashing after installing LED bulbs for the turn signals was driving me crazy. So I followed this guys advise
My relay was not quite where the video was showing but was able to track down by listening & feeling for the relay clicking away. Could not separate the plug from the housing even after bending back the two side tabs & depressing the tab on the plug.... And
20230208_214030.jpg

Broke the Oem housing trying to take off the relay & then proceeded to blow the Turn Signal fuse when the inside of the relay touch metal.
Installed the new relay Amazon product ASIN B008C9YS0YInstalled a 15amp fuse.

Blinkers blink normal again.
 
Yes. I had my dad help me but it worked. you have to push the axle in a bit after every swing so the c clip isn’t sitting right up against the stop.

Well the "clunk" finally drove me to insanity. I took it to Toyota and wound up having them do the following:
Both front axles and wheel bearings were smoked. This was the source of my 30 mph, let off the throttle and then accelerate again "clunk"
Transmission fluid flush.
Differentials fluid flush.
Transfer case fluid flush.
Power steering fluid flush.
Brake fluid flush.
Coolant flush.
Coolant lines and T fitting at firewall for heater core replacement.
PCV hose replacement.
Air filter box hose replacement.
Fuel filter replacement.
Throttle body/Injection cleaning.
Front brakes complete replacement.

Unfortunately, I opted not to replace my A/C compressor, condenser and expansion valves based on the fact that I was quoted another $7500.00. The compressor clutch failed last summer and filled the entire dual A/C system and lines with metal debris. It doesn't get that warm in Oregon.

This is a third vehicle that I'm extremely attached to. I've had it for nearly a decade and it has never left me stranded.
Hopefully this will keep it going for another 250k miles!
So they did everything except grease the propeller shafts, the main cause of clunking!
In any case, I hope it's fixed!
 
Finally resolved a low idle/stalling with no codes issue. New MAF, cleaned the TB, and she's starting/idling like a new truck again.
 
Hi All. I had a custom front bumper put on my Lexus LX470. That meant losing the fog lights and the turn signals. The turn signal lights and harness are still connected and still work but are now underneath the hood, so not visible. Anyone have experience relocating front turn signals? I wonder if there’s an option to replace the parking light with a dual filament that acts as a parking light and a turn signal? Or can I insert the turn signal into the parking light receptacle and try to seal it up with silicone? Any suggestions? Thanks for your feedback.

359F4E19-9509-4FB7-851F-1629F1CB9FA5.jpeg
 
Hi All. I had a custom front bumper put on my Lexus LX470. That meant losing the fog lights and the turn signals. The turn signal lights and harness are still connected and still work but are now underneath the hood, so not visible. Anyone have experience relocating front turn signals? I wonder if there’s an option to replace the parking light with a dual filament that acts as a parking light and a turn signal? Or can I insert the turn signal into the parking light receptacle and try to seal it up with silicone? Any suggestions? Thanks for your feedback.
Check this thread: LX470 Turn Signal/Marker Light Conversion Help
 
Added spacers to my Asfir skid. I found without spacers the lower control arm mounts were exposed and the skid was way too close to the oil cooler for comfort. (1/8" or so clearance) I couldn't find anything local so I ordered 3/4" tall x 1" diameter aluminum spacers from A&A Manufacturing. I only needed the spacers in the front and middle positions. Rear bolted up fine without. Much better now! A hit won't drive the skid up into the oil cooler and the control arm mounts are better covered.

Before:
0A2227D7-D564-4B79-A080-D5D84F55EA20.jpeg


After:

63BE457D-C431-4F7F-B525-69DEDF04C6C3.jpeg


885A4837-DD4D-48BF-B19C-D32F13A2DE6F.jpeg
 
Oil change and replaced my rusty broken rear hatch latch. Fixed the 3rd brake light that was leaking years ago, for some reason I kept putting off the latch, buttery smooth now. Ordering timing belt bits for an early spring install.
 
Added spacers to my Asfir skid. I found without spacers the lower control arm mounts were exposed and the skid was way too close to the oil cooler for comfort. (1/8" or so clearance) I couldn't find anything local so I ordered 3/4" tall x 1" diameter aluminum spacers from A&A Manufacturing. I only needed the spacers in the front and middle positions. Rear bolted up fine without. Much better now! A hit won't drive the skid up into the oil cooler and the control arm mounts are better covered.

Before:
View attachment 3243903

After:

View attachment 3243902

View attachment 3243898

Are you running a differential drop? I am installing the same skid this weekend.
 
Well the "clunk" finally drove me to insanity. I took it to Toyota and wound up having them do the following:
Both front axles and wheel bearings were smoked. This was the source of my 30 mph, let off the throttle and then accelerate again "clunk"
Transmission fluid flush.
Differentials fluid flush.
Transfer case fluid flush.
Power steering fluid flush.
Brake fluid flush.
Coolant flush.
Coolant lines and T fitting at firewall for heater core replacement.
PCV hose replacement.
Air filter box hose replacement.
Fuel filter replacement.
Throttle body/Injection cleaning.
Front brakes complete replacement.

Unfortunately, I opted not to replace my A/C compressor, condenser and expansion valves based on the fact that I was quoted another $7500.00. The compressor clutch failed last summer and filled the entire dual A/C system and lines with metal debris. It doesn't get that warm in Oregon.

This is a third vehicle that I'm extremely attached to. I've had it for nearly a decade and it has never left me stranded.
Hopefully this will keep it going for another 250k miles!
An A/C clutch is external to the A/C system. It failing would not cause any issues internally. Big magnet behind pulley that pulls the clutch plate to engage with pulley when energized. Get a second opinion
 

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