I want to say Partsouq had them for $35ea, but your probably looking at $20 shipping.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (29 Viewers)
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I just put it on and the sound is better than a ripped speaker lol “. had to test play “THE” 90s jam ‘my boo’ and the $20 repair didn’t disappoint.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
So that's how you are supposed to use these things. I've been doing it wrong this whole time!
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Waiting on a part to get my lower control arm bushings out (the frame mounted ones) so I decided to take the convertible out for a spin in the nice 71 degree Western Washington weather.
Last time I checked RA won't ship to a short list of certain zip code municipalities around Denver for the tax issue you mentioned but its not the entire state- .
It's everywhere that is "incorporated" for the most part.
That split is most likely due to the type of clamp you have on there. Real easy to get the worm gear clamps too tight, combined with problem that they are a few mm wider than the OEM crimp type clamp and tend to cut into the boot (even with the rolled edge euro type clamp), they can lead to tears. The factory clamp has a very specific crimp spec. Some people have luck with worm clamps but IMO they are not ideal.Exactly one year after I put a fresh axle - OEM boot is busted! There gotta be a better way to deal with this
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OEM clamps on the inner boot are about 6.7 mm wide +/- interestingly the outer boot clamps are slightly wider (7.8mm). If you have to use a worm gear clamp you want one where the band is no greater than about 7mm wide- the pfran/mcmaster Carr clamps commonly used are 9-10mm wide.
Closest option Ive found to OEM that you can install with out removing boot are the NAPA CV boot clamps Part #: CVB 6865834- this requires a crimping tool.
That makes sense, but quite a few ppl have had the OEM crimp clamps leak on them after a few months. Those clamps were crimped by the manufacturer so the installer can't really be blamed for not using the correct crimping spec either.
On the flip side, there are a few members here running the rolled edge worm gear clamps with no splitting issues. Quite interestingly mine split not at the edge of clamp but just a little inwards from it, making me think it can't be the edge of the clamp itself!
I am planning to pull the cv, flush the joint, put new grease and boot on it and then run it with a little less lift to see if that extends the life.
Worse case scenario, I will be back here in abt 11 months bitching abt a split boot
i bought a bluetti ac50s but just saw jackery is having a sale on their 500w battery too. Jackery Portable Power Station Explorer 500, 518Wh Outdoor Solar Generator Mobile Lithium Battery Pack with 110V/500W AC Outlet (Solar Panel Optional) for Road Trip Camping, Outdoor Adventure $80 off for $420
I read it all the time- "people using worm drive clamps for years that have no problems with them". Yet I notice a fair number that do. So maybe everyone has slightly use; different: lift, street driving habits, offroad driving conditions: crawling- full extension use vs light duty, no two people will tighten the worm clamp the same pressure on so on. Anecdotally- my experience is they aren't worth using as a long term solution. On a previous set of axles of mine, I had tried pfran clamps and the boots tore right where yours did.That makes sense, but quite a few ppl have had the OEM crimp clamps leak on them after a few months. Those clamps were crimped by the manufacturer so the installer can't really be blamed for not using the correct crimping spec either.
On the flip side, there are a few members here running the rolled edge worm gear clamps with no splitting issues. Quite interestingly mine split not at the edge of clamp but just a little inwards from it, making me think it can't be the edge of the clamp itself!
I am planning to pull the cv, flush the joint, put new grease and boot on it and then run it with a little less lift to see if that extends the life.
Worse case scenario, I will be back here in abt 11 months bitching abt a split boot
Yeah seems on lifted trucks the small factory installed band clamps on the inner boot can start to see. LOL my DS did just after the warranty ran out 14months in, and the PS did 38months in (after wheeling Windrock). My front lift is 21.5" (with a diff drop). Ive used the NAPA clamps successfully but I think its more to do with the width of the band- wider is not better. IMO Matching the OEM band width is important in addition to clamping pressure.
i've had mine leak with the OEM clamps and rip with the worm clamps.
CVs are my favorite thing in the world....
but i think with the worm clamps it's easy to over tighten and that's when we get rips....if it happens again i think i'm going with the CVJ boots
It is only certain cities or something. I know some folks in RS that will receive rock auto shipments for us.
Just bought mine last week and paid the $500 : ( I always seem to buy it 1 week before a sale/promotion
I just checked Rock Auto's email to me and its noting that if the state collects the sales tax on behalf of a city, then they will ship there, but there are 70+ cities in colorado with home-rules that allow them to keep the sales tax directly and not have to forward it on to the state, which it sounds like is most "larger" municipalities that can elected to track it internally. I will have to see if I can ship to somebody in unincorporated areas, or potentially down by Berthoud as it looks like they aren't collecting.
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Nothing to see. Underside improvements.
1) Diff breather extensions.
2) Trail-Trailor rear control arms alignment. Driveline now smooth as silk Got a professional shop that specializes in OR suspensions to check my work. It turned out that my driveway mechanics were very close to spot-on. It just needed to be squared up a touch. Overall assessment of the rear suspension was very good. I learned a bit about adjustable upper control arms and conditions that will twist the arms in place. Need to periodically check jam nuts after flexing. Panhard correction kit should help to keep the rear axle from shifting side to side with a 3+" rear lift. Will see how this turns out.
3) Got the Dobinsons rear bumper aligned so one of the side wings doesn't touch the body. I didn't have a way to pull the bumper down at home to use the adjusters.
It looks better and drivers a touch better. That's it for this week.
1) Diff breather extensions.
2) Trail-Trailor rear control arms alignment. Driveline now smooth as silk Got a professional shop that specializes in OR suspensions to check my work. It turned out that my driveway mechanics were very close to spot-on. It just needed to be squared up a touch. Overall assessment of the rear suspension was very good. I learned a bit about adjustable upper control arms and conditions that will twist the arms in place. Need to periodically check jam nuts after flexing. Panhard correction kit should help to keep the rear axle from shifting side to side with a 3+" rear lift. Will see how this turns out.
3) Got the Dobinsons rear bumper aligned so one of the side wings doesn't touch the body. I didn't have a way to pull the bumper down at home to use the adjusters.
It looks better and drivers a touch better. That's it for this week.
Yup, had to remove the bottom bolt from the window track, and pull it out of the way.
buy and return?
This was fun...interesting was the one being replaced, which was installed by a dealer, is not the correct model for the 100. Lasted 80k miles before it started acting up the last couple weeks. 2 unplanned sensors and 2 broken plastic connectors to round out the project.
I started installing the Trail Tailor cb antenna mount. This is definitely not an easy bolt on nor plug and play. The bolt up is pretty straight forward, but the angle of the antenna makes for a struggle when running the antenna rod through the factory fender trim. I’ve read that the angle is due to the SWR reading being better the way it’s angled. There’s still some fit and finish to take care of, but I’m confident I’ll have it all worked out.
