What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (100 Viewers)
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Got Wheelers Offroad front bump stops for Christmas. Put them on this afternoon and so far I’m liking the ride and suspension feel.
Too many things these past few weeks, but here are some highlights. New Dissent skids, HID foglight upgrade, LED lightbar in the grill that also swivels to be an underhood worklight, rear bumper LED "reflectors," hardwired a Garmin GPS mount, and just this week waxed both the paint and the underside before too much salt hits the pavement:
Anybody tried both Woolwax and FluidFilm? This is my first year so don't have anything to compare to, but was really impressed with how easy the Woolwax went on.
Anybody tried both Woolwax and FluidFilm? This is my first year so don't have anything to compare to, but was really impressed with how easy the Woolwax went on.
Did you go new or used?
Back in early fall I would notice a fuel smell in the garage when my LX had a full tank of gas. On inspection (to my horror) fuel was weeping from outside seem of my rusty tank. No surprise I guess since the protector plate was missing large hunks...
I got a great hand-me-down tank from an IH8Mudder who had replaced his with a long distance tank. Powder coated the protector place, replaced the fuel pump and hoses in the last few weeks.
So this week was the week. Not something I recommended as a solo job but you do what you have to. Coming down is easy as gravity is your friend. Going up is a bit tricker. I came across a (sorta) cheap gadget that for me, made it doable. This short lift transmission jack seeming to be just the ticket. (Harbor Freight $100) It raises up using an impact, lowering is best by hand.
The trick is that the tank and protector are wider than gap between the drive shaft and the frame rail. The tank needs to tilt higher on the drive shaft side, rise up and level off after clearing the frame. The dang thing kept sliding off the jack. I looked around the garage and saw a furniture dolly and fastened it to the jack with a few bolts. Then to make sure the tank stayed in place I put two screws in place with the heads sticking up to snag the drain holes on the protector plate.
All in all things went pretty smoothly.
I got a great hand-me-down tank from an IH8Mudder who had replaced his with a long distance tank. Powder coated the protector place, replaced the fuel pump and hoses in the last few weeks.
So this week was the week. Not something I recommended as a solo job but you do what you have to. Coming down is easy as gravity is your friend. Going up is a bit tricker. I came across a (sorta) cheap gadget that for me, made it doable. This short lift transmission jack seeming to be just the ticket. (Harbor Freight $100) It raises up using an impact, lowering is best by hand.
The trick is that the tank and protector are wider than gap between the drive shaft and the frame rail. The tank needs to tilt higher on the drive shaft side, rise up and level off after clearing the frame. The dang thing kept sliding off the jack. I looked around the garage and saw a furniture dolly and fastened it to the jack with a few bolts. Then to make sure the tank stayed in place I put two screws in place with the heads sticking up to snag the drain holes on the protector plate.
All in all things went pretty smoothly.
Installed the LED blinker relay, so now I’m ready for LED turn signals and the lamp warning has also disappeared. But, when trying to install the ARB bumper brackets, it appears that they will not fit unless I cut more frame horn off. I used the directions, but they are not very clear. And they also are wider at the bottom. Can anyone who’s done the ARB cut confirm - and maybe direct me to a good build link?
yngmrostrvile
GOLD Star
Thanks to sjfowler12 and his guys at DT outside Dallas, mounted some 18s. Got all the fluids changed, WBs repacked, PS Cv and front pads changed for the road trip.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
After Christmas Eve’s torrential rains here I noticed this:
and I thought to myself, hmm, water should not be there in that quantity...
So I pulled the door panel and, sure enough, the liner had pulled away from the sticky tar stuff at several points, allowing water to get onto the door panel. Ugh. Letting it dry out in the house and just hit it with a bleach solution, too....hoping it’ll be thoroughly dry tomorrow and ready for reinstall.
I recall having noticed this during a speaker replacement two years ago, at which time I had thought I got the plastic thingmo stuck to the tar, but it was apparently not a permanent fix. Today I used a heat gun—hope results are better. Also pulled other side rear door —not as many gaps, but some...
Here’s the main offender, after re-sticking everything together:
and I thought to myself, hmm, water should not be there in that quantity...
So I pulled the door panel and, sure enough, the liner had pulled away from the sticky tar stuff at several points, allowing water to get onto the door panel. Ugh. Letting it dry out in the house and just hit it with a bleach solution, too....hoping it’ll be thoroughly dry tomorrow and ready for reinstall.
I recall having noticed this during a speaker replacement two years ago, at which time I had thought I got the plastic thingmo stuck to the tar, but it was apparently not a permanent fix. Today I used a heat gun—hope results are better. Also pulled other side rear door —not as many gaps, but some...
Here’s the main offender, after re-sticking everything together:
Last edited:
New or used what?
That sux man, trace it to anything yet ?
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Yeah, as described in my post
, the plastic lining had pulled away from adhesive tar snake thingmo at several points, allowing water to get in past it to the door panel—I hit it with a heat gun and the leak should be fixed now.Wanted to post this as I reckon it’s probably a common fault, but could be overlooked easily, especially in a garage-kept vehicle....
Installing a winch into an Ironman bumper is a pain in the ascii key. You have to re-clock the clutch, separate the control box, and drill holes in the bumper. I previously installed the bumper a few months ago and had to pull it all apart to put the winch in. I suggest to do all at the same time. Don't be me. LOL!
Thanks for sharing, this has been on my nice to have list for a while!
Did the original bumpstops came off without a fight?
As far as the difference in the ride/suspension feel, did you test them out off road? I have always thought these don't come into play until you have a wheel compressed to the limit.
Did the original bumpstops came off without a fight?
As far as the difference in the ride/suspension feel, did you test them out off road? I have always thought these don't come into play until you have a wheel compressed to the limit.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Kind of a lame update: today I aborted an attempt to install my new rear lower control arms. . .
Bottom line: didn't have the right drill setup to drill out the mounts from 14 to 18mm to mount the 80 series LCAs I bought to replace my bent ones.
Expanded version:
I bought Dobinsons 80 series LCAs, since I couldn't find anyone selling an LCA with rubber bushings (vice poly or those fancy rock-crawler ones) for a 100 except for Wit's End, who's out of stock and kind of snowed under at the moment, and possibly ARB, but they treated my inquiries as to tubing size/wall thickness and bushing types as definitely insulting ("we don't give out that kind of information"). Was just wondering what my hundred-dollars-more-than-everyone-else-charges is getting me . . . sorry. You can pound sand, ARB, although I am very much enjoying your 12V compressor.
So to install the 80 series LCAs, I need to drill the mounting holes out from 14 to 18mm to accommodate the 80 series bolts.
And it is a royal PITA to get to the outboard axle ears on both sides. Today I made an attempt and I could get the drill and step bit positioned, but it turns out the ear is angled toward the axle body, so I was not square to the ear. I am going to need to either use a traditional drill bit and drill through from the inboard side or use a step drill with a 1/4" hex base (which would fit in my 90-degree adapter), which is HARD. TO. FIND. I ordered a milwaukee bit that allegedly had a 1/4" hex base, but apparently they changed the design without changing the part number, so mine has a lame 3/8" shank. And then I ordered an Irwin step bit that was just an insane deal. And I found a Chinese step bit on WalMart.com that had a 1/4" hex shank, so should work with my 90-degree adapter. But it is stuck in New Jersey since 18 December, apparently. . .
I wish Dobinsons made these with the 100 series bushings (only difference between 80 and 100 series LCAs, according to my research), but they don't yet, so it looks like I wait for my Chinese bit to arrive and hope it's good enough quality to drill two holes. . . . (I can get the rest with my other step bits).
Arrrrgh.
Bottom line: didn't have the right drill setup to drill out the mounts from 14 to 18mm to mount the 80 series LCAs I bought to replace my bent ones.
Expanded version:
I bought Dobinsons 80 series LCAs, since I couldn't find anyone selling an LCA with rubber bushings (vice poly or those fancy rock-crawler ones) for a 100 except for Wit's End, who's out of stock and kind of snowed under at the moment, and possibly ARB, but they treated my inquiries as to tubing size/wall thickness and bushing types as definitely insulting ("we don't give out that kind of information"). Was just wondering what my hundred-dollars-more-than-everyone-else-charges is getting me . . . sorry. You can pound sand, ARB, although I am very much enjoying your 12V compressor.
So to install the 80 series LCAs, I need to drill the mounting holes out from 14 to 18mm to accommodate the 80 series bolts.
And it is a royal PITA to get to the outboard axle ears on both sides. Today I made an attempt and I could get the drill and step bit positioned, but it turns out the ear is angled toward the axle body, so I was not square to the ear. I am going to need to either use a traditional drill bit and drill through from the inboard side or use a step drill with a 1/4" hex base (which would fit in my 90-degree adapter), which is HARD. TO. FIND. I ordered a milwaukee bit that allegedly had a 1/4" hex base, but apparently they changed the design without changing the part number, so mine has a lame 3/8" shank. And then I ordered an Irwin step bit that was just an insane deal. And I found a Chinese step bit on WalMart.com that had a 1/4" hex shank, so should work with my 90-degree adapter. But it is stuck in New Jersey since 18 December, apparently. . .
I wish Dobinsons made these with the 100 series bushings (only difference between 80 and 100 series LCAs, according to my research), but they don't yet, so it looks like I wait for my Chinese bit to arrive and hope it's good enough quality to drill two holes. . . . (I can get the rest with my other step bits).
Arrrrgh.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
I’ve had the Wheeler’s bumpstops for ~8,000 miles. The ride up front is noticeably improved. I’ve not measured but I think you do lose about 1/2” of uptravel with them. Of course, if you’re running 35s, that decrease in uptravel would be desirable to prevent the tires from hitting the fenders.
yngmrostrvile
GOLD Star
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Thanks!
I failed to mention I was in search of something significantly stronger than OEM--mine bent without me realizing I'd hit it.
Here are the Dobinsons ones I got, which I think are a pretty good solution, provided I can get these holes bored out: Dobinsons Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms for Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series 1990-1997 | Exit Offroad
