What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (42 Viewers)

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I’ve had the Wheeler’s bumpstops for ~8,000 miles. The ride up front is noticeably improved. I’ve not measured but I think you do lose about 1/2” of uptravel with them. Of course, if you’re running 35s, that decrease in uptravel would be desirable to prevent the tires from hitting the fenders.

Thank you for the info. I just installed a set yesterday.
 
Fixed a loose rear vent window hinge, and used some fender washers under the electric motor bracket in order to get the window to seal tightly.
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I also re-sealed the rear hatch blanking plate. This time with 3M Adhesive versus butyl rope. Paint rollers between it and the whale tail are a perfect fit by the way.
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A little Goo Gone to clean up the excess and then top coated with black RTV after the adhesive had a few days to cure.
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Also replaced the hatch to spoiler rivets.
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Kind of a lame update: today I aborted an attempt to install my new rear lower control arms. . .

Bottom line: didn't have the right drill setup to drill out the mounts from 14 to 18mm to mount the 80 series LCAs I bought to replace my bent ones.

Expanded version:
I bought Dobinsons 80 series LCAs, since I couldn't find anyone selling an LCA with rubber bushings (vice poly or those fancy rock-crawler ones) for a 100 except for Wit's End, who's out of stock and kind of snowed under at the moment, and possibly ARB, but they treated my inquiries as to tubing size/wall thickness and bushing types as definitely insulting ("we don't give out that kind of information"). Was just wondering what my hundred-dollars-more-than-everyone-else-charges is getting me . . . sorry. You can pound sand, ARB, although I am very much enjoying your 12V compressor.

So to install the 80 series LCAs, I need to drill the mounting holes out from 14 to 18mm to accommodate the 80 series bolts.

And it is a royal PITA to get to the outboard axle ears on both sides. Today I made an attempt and I could get the drill and step bit positioned, but it turns out the ear is angled toward the axle body, so I was not square to the ear. I am going to need to either use a traditional drill bit and drill through from the inboard side or use a step drill with a 1/4" hex base (which would fit in my 90-degree adapter), which is HARD. TO. FIND. I ordered a milwaukee bit that allegedly had a 1/4" hex base, but apparently they changed the design without changing the part number, so mine has a lame 3/8" shank. And then I ordered an Irwin step bit that was just an insane deal. And I found a Chinese step bit on WalMart.com that had a 1/4" hex shank, so should work with my 90-degree adapter. But it is stuck in New Jersey since 18 December, apparently. . .

I wish Dobinsons made these with the 100 series bushings (only difference between 80 and 100 series LCAs, according to my research), but they don't yet, so it looks like I wait for my Chinese bit to arrive and hope it's good enough quality to drill two holes. . . . (I can get the rest with my other step bits).

Arrrrgh.View attachment 2537438
An extension like this should allow you to drill out both brackets from the inside.

 
An extension like this should allow you to drill out both brackets from the inside.

That's pretty great--now if I could just get my hands on a well made hex-shank freaking bit . . . . .

Good call. I already have two of those on each side, but with lights. Going for sort of a mod-ska vespa look.

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Life hack of the day for those of you carport warriors. New Toyota CV in the drivers side. Rebooting the one I took out to go in the passenger side when I swap it. Needed a way to hold it 🤗
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For anyone wondering, here’s the boot kit I used

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I adjusted my stop light switch so my brake lights come on without needing to mash the pedal. Also helps with the cruise control. Not a hard job but WAY WAY harder than it needed to be.
 
Thanks!
I failed to mention I was in search of something significantly stronger than OEM--mine bent without me realizing I'd hit it.

Here are the Dobinsons ones I got, which I think are a pretty good solution, provided I can get these holes bored out: Dobinsons Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms for Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series 1990-1997 | Exit Offroad
May be too late but have you considered putting a bushing into the 80 SERIES LCA'S to use the 100 hardware and factory mounts.
 
Just finished replacing the fuel tank and all its components along with the skid plate, filler neck and fuel filter on my 2000 LC ( all OEM parts). I had the common fuel smell when filling my tank coming from the back and after doing some research I came to the conclusion that the tank was rusted on the top back right corner and when I touched it my hand smelled like gas. There was no leak but vapors from gas were able to seep through when the tank was full. The job took some time but wasn't something that you can't do by yourself. I had to heat the strap bolts to make sure they don't brake but after that they came out easily. Also it is easier to remove the rear drive shaft to lower the fuel tank. The hard part of the job was the filler neck. You have to loosen the body mounts and lift the body off the frame a few inches to be able to slide the filler neck out between the fender and the tire. My LC doesn't have a lot of rust on it but I was surprised how bad the fuel tank looked. I just filled the tank and no more smell.
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Spent the week in Groveland CA. With daily trips into Yosemite. Very few people around. Great little town. Kids got to experience some fresh snow and have epic snowball fights. Also saw some rare albino deer right outside the cabin window. Put about a thousand miles on the 100 this week.
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May be too late but have you considered putting a bushing into the 80 SERIES LCA'S to use the 100 hardware and factory mounts.
Thanks--had definitely considered that but couldn't for the life of me find any bushings (tried McMaster and other places), and then asked a friend with years of suspension and fabrication experience whether to use bushings or drill, and he said, "drill!"
I think I'm going to grab a couple regular 16 and 18mm bits, use the step bit to make the inboard holes, then use the traditional bits, going through the already-enlarged inboard holes, to enlarge the outer holes--rain forecast for the next few days, though, and I'm a driveway mechanic. . . .
But if you're aware of any bushings that might work, my original hardware looks like it just came off the shelf and I could just reuse that. . .
 
Finally fixed my Brake Light Warning. Ever since switching to LED my Brake Light Warning Icon would illuminate with the start of the car. Drove me crazy.
A little electrician tape & viola can't see it anymore.
 
They were but had definitely seen better days. And the lug nuts were awful. Some dip**** the prior owner used had bored out the locking lugs. I replaced them all with Gorilla black ones. I got a new torque wrench out of the deal too. I love reasons to buy new tools!
 
They were but had definitely seen better days. And the lug nuts were awful. Some dips*** the prior owner used had bored out the locking lugs. I replaced them all with Gorilla black ones. I got a new torque wrench out of the deal too. I love reasons to buy new tools!
The top picture is of a wheel pre-primer. Like I said, they were pretty ugly.
 
For a while, I'd been logging my work on my rig and sharing that log with ih8mud. I'm moving my web site while will make this logging easier, so I've resumed this effort. In my most recent record, I talk about an electrical problem, hot glue, checking my tire chains, and catching up on the other things I've done since the last report. Here's a link to my update:

State of the LC, 30 December 2020 - http://thecoldfish.com/2020/12/30/state-of-the-lc/html
 

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