got my refreshed front driveshaft and upgraded rear driveshaft (bent on rocks so I went up in thickness) as well as installed née lower control arms. Next week the upper should be in.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (34 Viewers)
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No I’m seriously looking for someone LolI think @Pucker5 was just being funny...
yngmrostrvile
GOLD Star
Do they stop the vehicle?
Should have put a few coats of clear to protect the steel or gone with the Total Eclipse caliper that has a rust inhibiting coating.
Excellent point, one of the major reasons I did this was to limit the amount of loose stuff for that reason but I overlooked that. Should be an easy fix.
New front lower control arm ball joints and polyurethane bushings, front diff bushing, and an alignment. It feels much better than it did.
I
I recently read the Napa eclipse we’re reman Toyota. That could be totally false but I put the eclipses in the front of my truck when I had a seized rotor two or three years ago and they have performed to satisfaction
I hauled this Gator 120+ miles behind my (basically stock) 2006 LX470 with 194k miles on it. The truck never struggled or skipped a beat. AHC worked beautifully!!
Installed Metaltech sliders after powder coating. Had to bend some of the AHC lines but no big deal thanks to all the great info on this website. Love the way they came out. Feel rock solid!
Drove 440+ miles from Lake Tahoe to Las Vegas on an Ace hardware bolt and lock washer after a close call failure on the brake mounting bolts falling off. Now got the oem part, used loctite blue on this specific one and made sure all bolts are removed, applied blue toctite and torqued back to fsm spec.
Long road trip or not, please check your brake mounting bolts and torque them to 98 Ft-Lb. As the old saying goes, An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Merry Christmas
Long road trip or not, please check your brake mounting bolts and torque them to 98 Ft-Lb. As the old saying goes, An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Merry Christmas
Aren’t these supposed to be replaced when the calipers are removed?
Just drove the 1000 kms South to the city and back. Put 2 bottles of Valvoline Fuel Injector Cleaner spread between the 2 tanks (90L + 45L).
Acceleration seems much nicer now, cleaner, less dead spot on the pedal. (although I think I could benefit from doing this a few more times)
New radiator hoses+coolant, air filter, fuel filter, air intake hose, pcv valve+ grommet+ hose. All this combined seems to have worked well.
42 degrees celcius though , that A/C system does not work when the car is idle - not sure if it ever did and not sure how to rectify this issue. Very hot inside and the A/C only seems to work when the car gets moving when it is this hot - then it works well. The new cabin filter is not the issue I think. Might invest in some actual evapourator cleaning foam 2x cans or so.
Acceleration seems much nicer now, cleaner, less dead spot on the pedal. (although I think I could benefit from doing this a few more times)
New radiator hoses+coolant, air filter, fuel filter, air intake hose, pcv valve+ grommet+ hose. All this combined seems to have worked well.
42 degrees celcius though , that A/C system does not work when the car is idle - not sure if it ever did and not sure how to rectify this issue. Very hot inside and the A/C only seems to work when the car gets moving when it is this hot - then it works well. The new cabin filter is not the issue I think. Might invest in some actual evapourator cleaning foam 2x cans or so.
It’s a mixed reaction really. Some say replace once removed, some say re-use w/o loctite and some say re-use with loctite. In my case I re-used the same bolts when I replace my rotors and pads 1.5 years ago (almost 10k miles now). But what I failed to do was to torque it based on fsm spec.
Could be a bad fan clutch. When you aren’t moving, there is no air moving across the condenser.
A few things last week, as I am trying to baseline things a bit as well as fix some issues:
The main issue was replacing the upper and lower ball joints because of excessive squeaking. Neither of them had zerks but they now do. While inspecting that, the front stabilizer bushings looked hammered so they have been replaced and while there, found a torn axle boot. All fixed!!!
Also removed the skid plates to change transfer case and differential oil and while down there, properly lub the drive shafts and u joints. While reinstalling the skid, one of the rivet nuts decided to leave. Ordered some from Amazon and put in a new one so all of the bolts are back in.
I then found a brand new set of chains on craigslist, tried them out, a bit long as they weren't for my tire size, but the crossover chain fit well, so I paid pennies on the dollar, pulled out the bolt cutters and now have a set on hand. I don't mind driving on snow, it is the dang ice that I hate.
The main issue was replacing the upper and lower ball joints because of excessive squeaking. Neither of them had zerks but they now do. While inspecting that, the front stabilizer bushings looked hammered so they have been replaced and while there, found a torn axle boot. All fixed!!!
Also removed the skid plates to change transfer case and differential oil and while down there, properly lub the drive shafts and u joints. While reinstalling the skid, one of the rivet nuts decided to leave. Ordered some from Amazon and put in a new one so all of the bolts are back in.
I then found a brand new set of chains on craigslist, tried them out, a bit long as they weren't for my tire size, but the crossover chain fit well, so I paid pennies on the dollar, pulled out the bolt cutters and now have a set on hand. I don't mind driving on snow, it is the dang ice that I hate.
Will check it out, appreciate some feedback on that. Got pretty sweaty Cheers
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Just paint pen all removed/ reinstalled bolts. That way you can quickly identify any that have become loose. And there's no reason not to reuse the caliper to knuckle bolts. They are not torque to yield. Unless you've messed up the threads or rounded the head they can be reused infinitely.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
I’d bet on it being the A/C condenser fan or it’s relay being the problem.
Thanks guys, legends. Also found this, How to get peak AC performance from your 2003+ 100 series
is it true that the 100 series did not have this on it in some models ??
Almost wish it was a faulty clutch now, now have to go find out whether there was ever one on this model.
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OK, so seperate post. The 100 series that did not come with AC condenser fans, apparently they were made so the radiator fan picked up the slack of the condenser not having a fan, and cooled down the condenser fins and AC sufficiently when idle (is this true that it works).
Now question: my Radiator Fan housing has a massive break at the bottom, and crack at the top. Would this be letting air out of the sides, and not allowing the radiator AND condenser to not get maximum air through both. I can not see any other problem: pics
Biggest crack , basically falling off if you can see it resting on the lower radiator hose.
I still don't understand how this design would be effective enough (nor efficient on the engine, or so I have read)
Now question: my Radiator Fan housing has a massive break at the bottom, and crack at the top. Would this be letting air out of the sides, and not allowing the radiator AND condenser to not get maximum air through both. I can not see any other problem: pics
Biggest crack , basically falling off if you can see it resting on the lower radiator hose.
I still don't understand how this design would be effective enough (nor efficient on the engine, or so I have read)
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Getting the turbo bits and pieces together.
J
J
