What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (46 Viewers)

[RFavuzza]

Had my trusty mechanic tidy up the front end; New upper control arms, inner and outer tie rods and ball joints up front.

Such an improvement.

The rear upper bushings are shot as well so I'm sitting down now to order some Metal Tech rear control arms since that's something I can do myself with the time I have available. Seems like their mod on the lower arms is a good thing so I'll grab those as well.

Wits' End heater T kit will go on before I hit the trails this weekend. Rear control arms next week, and radiator after that.

 

[abuck99]

Been catching up on annual maintenance- draining/refilling diffs & TC, removing driveshafts cleaning old grease putting fresh lube in, and general underside clean up after Colorado high country. Went inside and checked cabin air filters; .....damn don't wait 24 months to change them out. Very dirty with some mold growth (benefits of living in the swampy south). Vacuumed the debris out, sanitized the A/C condenser (99% Isopropyl Alcohol) replaced with new filters; Denso 453-1001

 

[FLXCapacitor]

New tires and wheels...loving the new look!

Also checked the neutral pressures and such on AHC - now I need the gigantic socket and a large tree branch to adjust them...

Before:

And after:

 

[100d ua]

Picking up the car today from paint. Hood got a respray.

 

[jerryb]

m14 X 1,25 end of rail ports.

 

[mdcoa]

In the past 1.5 week, installed an ARB CKMA12 on my Slee 2nd battery mount, modifying the harness (since I don't need this for lockers, just inflating stuff) to have a simple push-button switch nearby.

And new Denso iridium plugs and denso boots.

And possibly my new favorite accessory--this $19 USB-rechargable little lantern, with magnets on the bottom, which sticks to the bottom of the hood and is a game changer, for a guy who's been working on cars in driveways with headlamps for years. . . sooo nice.
Amazon product ASIN B01K8ZDCI8

 

[abuck99]

m14 X 1,25 end of rail ports.

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Pretty cool- Hope you do a thread with more details on your install; why you added that specific telemetry, and what to do with the data from it.

 

[jerryb]

@abuck99 I just wanted an electric pressure sensor to replace the mechanical QD one I have on the fuel rail. Also, adding the temp sensor was just an easy and cost effective thing to add on the same screen. I'll move it later to a different spot possibly some other time., you never know when a turbo might fall in my lap.
I guess it's sort of an investigating thing. I got bent a little when someone said my car was running hot. People tell me I need to let things go. Which is true.

 

[Eyedaho]

@abuck99 I just wanted an electric pressure sensor to replace the mechanical QD one I have on the fuel rail. Also, adding the temp sensor was just an easy and cost effective thing to add on the same screen. I'll move it later to a different spot possibly some other time., you never know when a turbo might fall in my lap.
I guess it's sort of an investigating thing. I got bent a little when someone said my car was running hot. People tell me I need to let things go. Which is true.

Have you cleaned your radiator fins, really really well yet?

 

[abuck99]

@abuck99 I just wanted an electric pressure sensor to replace the mechanical QD one I have on the fuel rail. Also, adding the temp sensor was just an easy and cost effective thing to add on the same screen. I'll move it later to a different spot possibly some other time., you never know when a turbo might fall in my lap.
I guess it's sort of an investigating thing. I got bent a little when someone said my car was running hot. People tell me I need to let things go. Which is true.

Got it. Are you taking readings from one sensor or two (one on each fuel rail)? I do find it interesting to be able to read and monitor fuel pressure and fuel temps in real time. Over time you can maybe determine how well your FPR is working or FP, or if the secondary filter is restricting flow act.

Yeah ECT's are certainly a debatable and subjective topic as there are so many variables to factor to begin to establish some kind of base line (if there can be one( with all the various stages of stock and built trucks here): including method of measurement, vehicle mechanical condition, sensor offset/variance, regional and seasonal weather conditions, altitude, regional and seasonal fuel blends, driving conditions & habits, vehicle load etc etc. this list goes on.

Anyway look forward to learning what you find out. BTW how is the catless exhaust testing working out?

 

[jerryb]

Have you cleaned your radiator fins, really really well yet?

if I see that again I'm gonna hurl. geez, if you have a ten year old radiator, replace it. There are zero reasons to keep a ten year old radiator or fuel pump.

Got it. Are you taking readings from one sensor or two (one on each fuel rail)? I do find it interesting to be able to read and monitor fuel pressure and fuel temps in real time. Over time you can maybe determine how well your FPR is working or FP, or if the secondary filter is restricting flow act.

Yeah ECT's are certainly a debatable and subjective topic as there are so many variables to factor to begin to establish some kind of base line (if there can be one( with all the various stages of stock and built trucks here): including method of measurement, vehicle mechanical condition, sensor offset/variance, regional and seasonal weather conditions, altitude, regional and seasonal fuel blends, driving conditions & habits, vehicle load etc etc. this list goes on.

Anyway look forward to learning what you find out. BTW how is the catless exhaust testing working out?

electric pressure pass side, temp on drivers side, mechanical pressure on drivers side banjo bolt. you can slightly see in the pic.
yes, too many variables. But you should always start with the highest temp in the engine. EGT and work backwards to get to the lowest temp item. Not cross, or jump or ignore CHT or EGT going from one conclusion to another, like well.... lets see,,, if fuel is boiling, it must be coolant temp. that's fine and all but I'd monitor about 7 different things before I came to that conclusion. Even then the same conclusion will not work in all regions, or even a spread of what--- 10 model years through major engine, intake etc face-lifts. Half these guys probably have a ton of water just sitting in the tank from ethanol.
the non cat cat pipes from toyota are great. It's not louder, it runs better, should say smoother. if i were to graph RMP over time you could see shift changes that are slightly better. The urd calibrator is great, works fine. I'm glad it's out there becasue there's no way I could make one like that.

 

[pmstancu]

....have replaced the whole suspension with OME TB+rear springs (2860) and shocks (60001 and 60002).
Shall I mention, again, the PITA with the rear shocks removal?!?
My 2002 AHC TLC 100 is at its third owner now. Don't know if the PO's ever touched the suspension but I'm 99.9% sure that the rig had the original shocks on it.

Last week decided to replace just the TB's and the rear spring coils thinking, albeit read it in many posts that is quite impossible to match it, that I'll manage it somehow to make the AHC working with the replacement parts.
Of course that it didn't go that well and after fixing everything in place went out last weekend in a mountain trip with some mates. While the 2860 coils are just +10mm and 0-200 kgs range and loaded the trunk with something like 170 kgs of equipment the car was still bouncing like a yo-yo. Even on the highway....
Saturday had a long day on med/harsh rough terrain. There were several cases when the car was bouncing like hell losing grip in some scary moments (long inclined climbing) which nicely added some earthy colours on my snow white underwear....
Late in the night when returning to base had again a violent bouncing session and noted the indicator was showing the AHC is on low and the OFF led was blinking. Said nothing and went further.....

Next morning went under the car and found that the rear right shock was ripped.... The stud just ceased right from under the chassis fixing point. Took my 19mm wrench, took the shock out and hit the road... Another rough ride all day long, with similar scary situations but came back in one piece. Both myself and the rig...
On the way back home (something like 800 kms) visited the shop and purchased the OME shocks (front and rear, 4 pcs).

Only today had the available time to install them.
Nicely prepared all the nuts by spraying them with some WD40 for two consecutive days. Guess what? Of course it was just like holy water, it didn't do any good nor bad... 500Nm impact wrench was of no use. So, the angle grinder entered the scene and both front shocks got the same treatment.
As for the rear..... damn..... I was lucky with the RR shock that it did the whole job and got the stud broken exactly where it should've been for an easy removal. Just as a quick note, the shock is blocked can not extend it at all. Believe this was the reason for which it failed.

As for the RL I admit that I flirted with the idea of drilling a whole in the trunk in order to access the nut. Than I realised that it would be so rusty that operation would be of no help.
So I went with the second option. As the angle grinder cannot be used I called in the reciprocal saw. 45 minutes long struggle and, voila, the shock is out.

Alright, tightening them was also a bit of effort (by the way, don't use a thick 19mm wrench to keep the stud fixed unless you want to undo the nut to succeed taking it out after you just thought that you finished) but compares not with the removal.

Too late to make any other adjustments, shall see tomorrow how the car handles, make measurements and eventually go to the shop for wheels alignment...

While the rig is a superb beast and usual Japanese tech savvy gathering I believe that the rear shocks installation design was done in Burkina Faso or somewhere nearby......

 

[Jermunji]

Replaced the fuel pump at 206k as it had stuttered and died randomly On two different trips over the past 3 months. No codes, just died. Give it a minute and it’d fire right back up and take us home. Didn’t notice the pump sounding louder or anything odd, but seemed to be common at that mileage here on the forums. Hopefully with the new pump and both filters things should be straightened out.

 

[OwnerCS]

Replaced the fuel pump at 206k as it had stuttered and died randomly On two different trips over the past 3 months. No codes, just died. Give it a minute and it’d fire right back up and take us home. Didn’t notice the pump sounding louder or anything odd, but seemed to be common at that mileage here on the forums. Hopefully with the new pump and both filters things should be straightened out.

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On my list of items after I finish all of the suspension upgrade mods. The good news is we don't need to pull a pickup bed or go through a of trouble to get to the pump

 

[Eyedaho]

On my list of items after I finish all of the suspension upgrade mods. The good news is we don't need to pull a pickup bed or go through a of trouble to get to the pump

The other good news is you can get Densos on Rock Auto for really cheap, with the filter and hose (for attaching the pump) included.

 

[phatdragon]

Prospeed Roof rack installed, diggin the lines and profile. Now I can finally get some bigger shoes and still fit in the garage. Any advice on the best way to mount recovery tools and rotopax? I have a bunch of the quick fists but need to know what T Nuts etc. to order.

 

[silver02accord]

Replaced the fuel pump at 206k as it had stuttered and died randomly On two different trips over the past 3 months. No codes, just died. Give it a minute and it’d fire right back up and take us home. Didn’t notice the pump sounding louder or anything odd, but seemed to be common at that mileage here on the forums. Hopefully with the new pump and both filters things should be straightened out.

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So funny i just ordered this fuel sock today. I ordered the denso fuel pump and toyota gasket and pre-filter, did you use oem parts or? I have an 06 lx as well.

How long did it take you once you had the door opeN? I pulled carpet yesterday I am concered about having the fuel tank exposed and want to get in and out.

 

[LX4FUN]

Put sweet stickers on it!

 

[highkick05]

Been catching up on annual maintenance- draining/refilling diffs & TC, removing driveshafts cleaning old grease putting fresh lube in, and general underside clean up after Colorado high country. Went inside and checked cabin air filters; .....damn don't wait 24 months to change them out. Very dirty with some mold growth (benefits of living in the swampy south). Vacuumed the debris out, sanitized the A/C condenser (99% Isopropyl Alcohol) replaced with new filters; Denso 453-1001


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We need to find some proper good filters for the non-filter models that have the compartment but no known filters to suite.

I get sick with my A/C on, the rubbish blowing through my system you can feel the crap on your lungs. It's not good at all even after a good clean.

 

[cmassa]

We need to find some proper good filters for the non-filter models that have the compartment but no known filters to suite.

I get sick with my A/C on, the rubbish blowing through my system you can feel the crap on your lungs. It's not good at all even after a good clean.

Is the climate system different on the 105? For the 100 LC (mine is 2003) that don't have cabin filters, it's a fairly simple mod to replace the cover to include the filter door. Then the standard LX cabin filters (which can be purchased on Amazon) can be used.