Did you have to get the shaft balanced or do they come balanced? Sorry never replaced a full shaft but have done plenty of u joints.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (81 Viewers)
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Having chased down sets for a 1999 Lexus LX470, a 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser, and a 2006 LX470, I'd say:
It may take some persistence to find a set, It took me quite a few months to get the full 2006 set.
You might want to send a note to eBay sellers "quikby" or "faxonautolit" to see if they have, or can get what you want.
Year to year, they're fairly similar, and having 3 sets is probably excessive, but I'd really want a correct year/model for the EWD.
I put these on
They come pre-assembled, pre-greased and pre-balanced directly from Toyota. The single easiest plug and play job I've ever done on my LX.....8 bolts is all.
Mine had a nice deep gouge about 2-3 feet long that spiraled around the rear ds that I thought was causing a drivetrain vibration. I replaced it with a dorman unit. Didn’t solve the vibration but fixed the clunk
Not sure if the Dorman are pre-balanced. Have you had anyone balance it?
They advertise their driveshafts as assembled and balanced.
Interesting. Good to know. My vibrations were coming from the worn u-joints on the tailshaft. Almost every other component of the driveline was replaced in the previous 12 months (OEM CVs, flanges, diff bushings, new LBJs, replaced bushings in the UCAs and new u-joints for the front driveshaft), so my vibration was limited to the tail shaft.
Made some DIY mud flap delete panels out of some scrap aluminum sheet I had laying around. Painted them black then coated them with some clear Flex Seal spray. I also made a fairing for my DIY roof rack to finally wrap up that project.
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Got a local locksmith to made a copy of my master key. It took some work for the cutting machine to get a good read on my old and worn key. He programmed the new "chip key" to be recognized by the ECU so it works great. All for $50. That's actually $10 less than the cost for getting a chip key duplicated at my Ace Hardware.
Although, he only had one blank key in stock for purchase today, I want to get him to make another key so I will have two backup copies. I only have one key with the FOB. I bought one of the YotaMD Key FOB kits for the main fob key.
Does anyone know if there is a way to get an external FOB that works on a 1999 model LX470? I've really never liked having the FOB and key in a single unit.
This week parts started arriving for "Wave 1" of my LX470 mid-life refresh project.
Here's a list of the parts, cost, and sources that I purchased for the first Wave of refresh work. The power Tilt and Telescopic motors are Lexus OEM. I plan to install the upstream O2 sensors and change the ATF this weekend.
Although, he only had one blank key in stock for purchase today, I want to get him to make another key so I will have two backup copies. I only have one key with the FOB. I bought one of the YotaMD Key FOB kits for the main fob key.
Does anyone know if there is a way to get an external FOB that works on a 1999 model LX470? I've really never liked having the FOB and key in a single unit.
This week parts started arriving for "Wave 1" of my LX470 mid-life refresh project.
Here's a list of the parts, cost, and sources that I purchased for the first Wave of refresh work. The power Tilt and Telescopic motors are Lexus OEM. I plan to install the upstream O2 sensors and change the ATF this weekend.
Did you pull bumper cover and attach the lights to the metal chunk of bumper behind cover?
Got the rusted muffler switched out to a flowmaster. The shop that did it was not up to my standards but it will do for now. Definitely a lot quieter.
Welcome. New steering rack and new rear brakes.I am new to the 100 series. Coming from the 40 forum OCD Bettle has a really successful, fun thread where we post a pic of wheeling, a fix, a new part, etc. for our trucks.
It's neat to see the mix of projects, daily driving issues, weekend wheelin reports, etc.
I thought the 100 forum could use one...
I'll start...today I ordered an Iron Man 2 inch lift kit for my 99'.
Replaced my steering rack and rear brakes.
I got two FOBs with my truck, and cut the key off of one of them and use it like a regular FOB with a separate key.
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I replace mine today as well. Went with the Walker unit from Rock Auto. Quieter than the rotted out factory one but hate the fitment of it. I'll give it some time before deciding to replace or not.
My 1 year old oem CV shaft on the passenger side has started leaking from the small end of the inner boot. I can easily turn the boot independent of the shaft. I cut the band off and replaced with a clamp from NAPA. However, I could not get it tight enough, the crimp was already maxed out. It was tighter than the oem clamp but I could still rotate the boot. I had 2 clamps so for now I just stacked another one on top of it which made it better but I can still turn the boot with some resistance. Looks like I'll need to try again or get a different style clamp. I don't think I could get the NAPA clamp to the next set of notches but I can try because they're cheap enough, and I bought the crimp pliers which were rather expensive. Looking at the driver's side, it's just starting to leak as well. Looks like I've got some MUD forum searching to do.
Chris
Chris
