What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (30 Viewers)

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cmassa said:
My 1 year old oem CV shaft on the passenger side has started leaking from the small end of the inner boot. I can easily turn the boot independent of the shaft. I cut the band off and replaced with a clamp from NAPA. However, I could not get it tight enough, the crimp was already maxed out. It was tighter than the oem clamp but I could still rotate the boot. I had 2 clamps so for now I just stacked another one on top of it which made it better but I can still turn the boot with some resistance. Looks like I'll need to try again or get a different style clamp. I don't think I could get the NAPA clamp to the next set of notches but I can try because they're cheap enough, and I bought the crimp pliers which were rather expensive. Looking at the driver's side, it's just starting to leak as well. Looks like I've got some MUD forum searching to do.

Chris

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McMaster part numbers 5574K25 and 5574K16 are good options for the large/small ends of the boots. I got the part numbers from a previous thread on here, and I've swapped several of them in now for leaky OE style ones. Shipping is the biggest cost driver, so I ordered enough for my rig and GF's 4Runner. They have a couple advantages, including being reusable, the ability to re-tighten, and the fact that you can use mechanical advantage (ramp/screw) to tighten them. They're constructed with screw path on the band stamped in instead of cut through the band, so the screw threads don't cut into the CV boot. I've been very happy and will continue to use them exclusively.
 
Jacked with this again, pain in the rear...glued foam back to edge on subwoofer.
IMG_20200208_144832.jpg
IMG_20200208_144821.jpg
 
Eyedaho said:
McMaster part numbers 5574K25 and 5574K16 are good options for the large/small ends of the boots. I got the part numbers from a previous thread on here, and I've swapped several of them in now for leaky OE style ones. Shipping is the biggest cost driver, so I ordered enough for my rig and GF's 4Runner. They have a couple advantages, including being reusable, the ability to re-tighten, and the fact that you can use mechanical advantage (ramp/screw) to tighten them. They're constructed with screw path on the band stamped in instead of cut through the band, so the screw threads don't cut into the CV boot. I've been very happy and will continue to use them exclusively.
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I'll probably try another NAPA clamp tomorrow since it's cheap and easy and I can pick them up locally. If it doesn't work, I'll order some from McMaster tomorrow.

Chris
 
cmassa said:
My 1 year old oem CV shaft on the passenger side has started leaking from the small end of the inner boot. I can easily turn the boot independent of the shaft. I cut the band off and replaced with a clamp from NAPA. However, I could not get it tight enough, the crimp was already maxed out. It was tighter than the oem clamp but I could still rotate the boot. I had 2 clamps so for now I just stacked another one on top of it which made it better but I can still turn the boot with some resistance. Looks like I'll need to try again or get a different style clamp. I don't think I could get the NAPA clamp to the next set of notches but I can try because they're cheap enough, and I bought the crimp pliers which were rather expensive. Looking at the driver's side, it's just starting to leak as well. Looks like I've got some MUD forum searching to do.

Chris

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View attachment 2205461
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This post has me wondering if Toyota wants two clamps to be used. I recently ordered the reboot kit which comes with the yellow and silver clamp in each size, big and small. When I do my reboot I think I’ll try silver then yellow and see how it goes.
 
NB100LC said:
212k miles:
New OEM steering rack with SuperPro poly bushes. A couple weeks ago the original rack started hemorrhaging fluid at the input shaft/valve body - did not appreciate the mess it started to make on the garage floor at all ....

Replaced drivers side front differential mount bushing with SuperPro unit, the original was toast. This has cured 95% of my driveline shift thunk...

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Very nice. Did the new rack come with inner tie rod ends and boots? If new tie rod ends come with the rack, I may just go ahead and get a new rack. A set of new inner tie rod ends are $373.78 compared to a new rack that is $475.71 at McGeorge.
 
OwnerCS said:
Very nice. Did the new rack come with inner tie rod ends and boots? If new tie rod ends come with the rack, I may just go ahead and get a new rack. A set of new inner tie rod ends are $373.78 compared to a new rack that is $475.71 at McGeorge.
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I just purchased a new rack 2wks ago and can confirm inner tie rods & boots are included. Outer tie rods are not included. If you want outers I would suggest contacting Kurt @cruiseroutfit

B1A5F81D-F690-48A4-9BDD-72B22DB2E13B.jpeg
 
OwnerCS said:
Very nice. Did the new rack come with inner tie rod ends and boots? If new tie rod ends come with the rack, I may just go ahead and get a new rack. A set of new inner tie rod ends are $373.78 compared to a new rack that is $475.71 at McGeorge.
Click to expand...
Yes it came complete with the boots and inner tie rods.

Toyota of Puyallup
$484.4 + shipping 49.58 and then an additional -24.79 discount that Mcgeorge didn’t offer.
$509.23 was the shipped total price.

You might want to check to see if they still offer this discount, could save you afew more$
 
NB100LC said:
Yes it came complete with the boots and inner tie rods.

Toyota of Puyallup
$484.4 + shipping 49.58 and then an additional -24.79 discount that Mcgeorge didn’t offer.
$509.23 was the shipped total price.

You might want to check to see if they still offer this discount, could save you afew more$
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. Is the discount for ih8mud members?
 
Replaced fuel filter, I believe it had not been replaced for the 212k miles on the odometer. I’ve had a slightly (perhaps imagined) rough idle and I also get a hesitation - always when turning (it’s always a single momentary pause in acceleration). Seems unlikely the hesitation would be the fuel filter but I’m going to see. Haven’t cut filter open but had the same black sludge come out, like others, and I assume filter is super dirty - as you would expect.

I was worried when breaking loose the nut on the fuel line. Soaked it in Kroil but it still took a lot of force to break loose and I was worried I’d damage the line itself - but all seems leak free.
 
Last edited:
NB100LC said:
Nope. I placed item in basket on McGeorge and Puyallup to calculate shipping, to my surprise this additional discount showed up.
Click to expand...

Same here. A $10 discount on shipping brought the price down to $503.41. Thank you!
 
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