What do you use to lube them?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (48 Viewers)
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Engine cover? I got rid of mine as did most.
I use LucasOil Red&Tacky or Mobil1 Red Grease for my u-joints. GreenGrease is also solid. For the yokes, you want grease with moly.
I use green grease for all 6 fittings. spider yoke and slip yoke.
I keep hearing use moly for slip where some just use green grease, next time might try moly and see if that gets rid of my clunk from R to D.
I use the Valvoline ngli whateveritis on all of the zerks in my truck.
Valvoline - synthetic NGLI #2 with moly surely she won’t blow up while driving her!
Installed a Dual Battery system using Slee battery tray and Blue Sea fuse panel for the new ARB 50q frig and Alucab slide. Also I replaced the hood struts with Stabilus brand from my carquest store for $42.
What's the part number / link to the hood struts? After years w/ Lou's time to try something new.
Prepping for a 2100 mile trip to Madison, WI pulling a U-Haul trailer. Today I replaced the radiator, hoses, fan bracket, belt tensioner, idler, belt, fan clutch. Took about 6 hours of work from beginning to end. Not a difficult job, just time consuming. Except for the lower bolt on the AC compressor. That one is a B#!&H! Only way I could find to get it was a really long extension with a swivel going next to the tie rod from the wheel well. The block drain on the right side is pretty tough too. Refilled the system with Toyota red long life coolant. All parts were OEM Toyota from Camelback. The bearings in the tensioner and fan bracket had play and rough turning.
I also found a pop rivet on the fender while under the hood. I'm thinking the replacement windshield a few months ago was actually done correctly!
On to re-foaming the front speakers in the morning.
Chris
I also found a pop rivet on the fender while under the hood. I'm thinking the replacement windshield a few months ago was actually done correctly!
On to re-foaming the front speakers in the morning.
Chris
Do you have a diagram with all the fittings locations? I could only find two.
Lubing & zerks
Helpful thread, just did my slips and Ujoints. Given that I haven’t greased them in the 100 thousand miles since I bought the rig they were dry. Like 50-60 pumps in the slips dry. Drivetrain clunk is gone. I didn’t over think it. Pumped until i saw expansion. Then pumped 1 by one until the...
forum.ih8mud.com
The stock 100 has only 6 zerks on the whole vehicle. One for each u-joint in the driveshafts (4) and one on each slip joint (2).
Had my inner and outer TREs replaced. Fixed the play in the wheel that cropped up earlier this summer, and smoothed out the braking. Steering is much tighter, big improvement all around. Big thanks to @cruiseroutfit to turning the parts around quickly. Had my local indie do it, started a new job on Monday, $300 for the install including an alignment.
whirlybirdbrewing
SILVER Star
I read your build link on OK4WD. You picked out some great components. Looks awesome.Installed a Dual Battery system using Slee battery tray and Blue Sea fuse panel for the new ARB 50q frig and Alucab slide. Also I replaced the hood struts with Stabilus brand from my carquest store for $42.
yeah! good deal indeed, im set for another 10k since i got Quaker state ultimate durability full syn for 30x2=60 from autozone which included 2 k&n filters. Granted i did have to purchase an extra 5 quarts from walmart at 18 so in the end made out just a few bucks ahead since k&n filters are pricey.
Soon, I’m gonna drive it....really I am.
It was a lot of work but the front end is nearly rebuilt. A new (not rebuilt) Toyota steering rack, new tie rod ends, new control arms, bushings, bolts all of it.
There are several well documented pain points. The rusted in LCA bushings, the coolant when you take off the oil filter housing, the fussy bolts for the oil filter housing.
It all worked eventually but I ended up having a frozen hose return side hose fitting. A new one is on the way.
Approaches used on the pain points:
LCA’s, hole saw 1 1/2” thru as much of the bushing as possible then turned a compression thru bolt 5/8 x 8” and washers till they broke.
Then I used a sawzall to cut a slot in the bushing. I pressed in frozen bearings with the same bolt and some monster sockets a buddy had. One socket setup pushed the rim in 95% of the way then the other one was bigger than the whole diameter and allowed the busing to seat all the way.
The coolant hose is just messy and dumps unless you want to try and compress it thru the inner finder. I didn’t since I was unsure if the age of the hose.
The oil filter housing bolts come out with a stubby wrench and then a swivel on 12” of extensions.
It was a lot of work but the front end is nearly rebuilt. A new (not rebuilt) Toyota steering rack, new tie rod ends, new control arms, bushings, bolts all of it.
There are several well documented pain points. The rusted in LCA bushings, the coolant when you take off the oil filter housing, the fussy bolts for the oil filter housing.
It all worked eventually but I ended up having a frozen hose return side hose fitting. A new one is on the way.
Approaches used on the pain points:
LCA’s, hole saw 1 1/2” thru as much of the bushing as possible then turned a compression thru bolt 5/8 x 8” and washers till they broke.
Then I used a sawzall to cut a slot in the bushing. I pressed in frozen bearings with the same bolt and some monster sockets a buddy had. One socket setup pushed the rim in 95% of the way then the other one was bigger than the whole diameter and allowed the busing to seat all the way.
The coolant hose is just messy and dumps unless you want to try and compress it thru the inner finder. I didn’t since I was unsure if the age of the hose.
The oil filter housing bolts come out with a stubby wrench and then a swivel on 12” of extensions.
