That's part number 35921-60180, "PLATE, CONTROL POSITION INDICATOR", at least from 01/1998 to 08/2002.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (40 Viewers)
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Haven't seen the switch-pro before (which looks cool) but I actually had the idea to build something like this using a raspberryPi (or similar) Any other software/electrical engineers here that would be interested in collaborating on an open source DIY solution to achieve the same result (with a mobile app)? If so PM me and we can start a thread.
You forgot the first thing: Buy super-wide-angle lens for camera.Finished new carpet & Trekboxx tailgate cover installation, deleted third row seatbelts and mounts -
And added a Ram Mount.
finished up backup camera, Xm antenna mount and parking brake bypass for DVD. I know why I procrastinated doing all of this now.
Ha yep. iPhone wasn’t cutting it, had to go 16mm
Finished new carpet & Trekboxx tailgate cover installation, deleted third row seatbelts and mounts -
And added a Ram Mount.
I like this setup @ikarus, can you share what parts you bought?
Sure.
Ram Pod Vehicle Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZOW1U2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ram Mount X Grip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7B2NV4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That one is for bigger phones, I have an iPhone 7 Plus. I haven't had a chance to drive with it much. Seems like there will be a little bit of vibration, which I'm fine with since I'm not looking at it constantly.
The Ram X grip mount is great. I use one when I fly and love it. It really doesn't vibrate much, and that's being stuck to the windshield of a helicopter (perhaps the most vibration prone machine ever built).
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The Ram X grip mount is great. I use one when I fly and love it. It really doesn't vibrate much, and that's being stuck to the windshield of a helicopter (perhaps the most vibration prone machine ever built).
Nice. Yeah I was in a C130 last week and they were using 5 or 6 ram mounts. The suction cups are solid, the only vibration I'm getting on mine is from the flexible aluminum arm.
BadReligion
SILVER Star
600 mile road trip from Reno to Gilroy and back to pick up a 2017 KTM 500 EXC. Left at 4 am and was back in Reno by 2:30pm. LX did great and made the drive comfortable, quick, and easy. Cruised at 82mph most of the time and only stopped twice for fuel, once for food, and to pick up the bike. Averaged about 13.6 mpg so that makes the LX my most fuel efficient vehicle. The G63 may have been quicker but would have probably added 2 more fuel stops and at least 1 speeding ticket for a net time savings of zero.
Bike weighs about 240 lbs so I barely felt it while driving. OME 1.5" rear coils (forget which one) didn't sag even a bit. Only downside was that my tape deck is broken so the ipod tape deck converter wouldn't work and there are way too many FM radio stations in CA so I could never get a clear signal with my ipod FM converter. Time for a VAIS MML-L1.
Bike weighs about 240 lbs so I barely felt it while driving. OME 1.5" rear coils (forget which one) didn't sag even a bit. Only downside was that my tape deck is broken so the ipod tape deck converter wouldn't work and there are way too many FM radio stations in CA so I could never get a clear signal with my ipod FM converter. Time for a VAIS MML-L1.
Heard some brake noise this AM, figured it was time for new brake pads. Found a stuck piston up front so I had to replace one of the calipers in the process, so a one hour gig turned into about four hours. But they brakes are nice and solid again, and quiet!
600 mile road trip from Reno to Gilroy and back to pick up a 2017 KTM 500 EXC. Left at 4 am and was back in Reno by 2:30pm. LX did great and made the drive comfortable, quick, and easy. Cruised at 82mph most of the time and only stopped twice for fuel, once for food, and to pick up the bike. Averaged about 13.6 mpg so that makes the LX my most fuel efficient vehicle. The G63 may have been quicker but would have probably added 2 more fuel stops and at least 1 speeding ticket for a net time savings of zero.
Bike weighs about 240 lbs so I barely felt it while driving. OME 1.5" rear coils (forget which one) didn't sag even a bit. Only downside was that my tape deck is broken so the ipod tape deck converter wouldn't work and there are way too many FM radio stations in CA so I could never get a clear signal with my ipod FM converter. Time for a VAIS MML-L1.
Is that a White Knuckle sliders?
BadReligion
SILVER Star
Yes! Good catch. Just installed them last weekend. Have a set on my 80 and they have held up well to some pretty heavy abuse.
picked up a couple of project vehicles
Hi fellow cruiserheads!
Installed a USB adaptor insted of stock tape recorder.
Installed a USB adaptor insted of stock tape recorder.
I've replaced the timing belt on my HDJ100 with the 1HD-FTE (4.2L 6cyl diesel).
The timing belt is very easy to acces and replace on this engine.
I only had to take off the aircon belt & tensioner, then loosen about six screws from the plastic cap and acces:
Use a 30mm socket to rotate the crank until the timing marks on both the pulleys are aligned.
The timing belt on my 1HD-FTE has a hydraulic tensioner:
When the timing marks are aligned you can unscrew the tensioner, unscrew the idler bearing and take off the belt.
Then put on the new belt, make sure the timing marks are both aligned. Install idler bearing and new tensioner and check timing marks again.
I used a new idler bearing and tensioner. It is possible to reuse the tensioner, you have to slowly (really slow) press it in in a bench vise, there is a hole for a pin (or small nail) to keep it retracted until you've installed it.
When everything was mounted and the timing marks were still in the right position I rotated the crank a full turn to check if everything was ok.
After the double check I fired her up and she ran perfect like before.
Screw on the plastic cover, put on aircon belt and tensioner and done for another 150 000 km / 90 000 miles.
Easy job, bit of a risk if you do not check the timing marks. Less than 1 hour job including digging out my dads car lift and hooking it up.
The timing belt is very easy to acces and replace on this engine.
I only had to take off the aircon belt & tensioner, then loosen about six screws from the plastic cap and acces:
Use a 30mm socket to rotate the crank until the timing marks on both the pulleys are aligned.
The timing belt on my 1HD-FTE has a hydraulic tensioner:
When the timing marks are aligned you can unscrew the tensioner, unscrew the idler bearing and take off the belt.
Then put on the new belt, make sure the timing marks are both aligned. Install idler bearing and new tensioner and check timing marks again.
I used a new idler bearing and tensioner. It is possible to reuse the tensioner, you have to slowly (really slow) press it in in a bench vise, there is a hole for a pin (or small nail) to keep it retracted until you've installed it.
When everything was mounted and the timing marks were still in the right position I rotated the crank a full turn to check if everything was ok.
After the double check I fired her up and she ran perfect like before.
Screw on the plastic cover, put on aircon belt and tensioner and done for another 150 000 km / 90 000 miles.
Easy job, bit of a risk if you do not check the timing marks. Less than 1 hour job including digging out my dads car lift and hooking it up.
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@SilverUser is there any chance you know where to find this part, and the black plastic box behind it with associated circuit boards inside (2) used over where you are?
Hi, Jerryb! Sure, I surched for it and found some offers, that might suit you. As I understood, you need 55912-60150, 88650-60820, 84014-60190, 55902-60110 parts. In Russia, the price is about 1 500 rubles (approx. 30$) for a used part+shipping to Florida(?).
