What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (55 Viewers)

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How do you like those sliders? All the pics I’ve seen look like they stick out a lot.
Love the sliders. I went with the step slider version primarily for my kids sake and to protect my vehicle. They have a generous platform to step on and into the vehicle. The tube style will give you more clearance. However if I went the tube version I kept imaging my little ones foot slipping and maybe breaking an ankle. Didn’t want that to happen.
 
@trdcorolla

Put back my flux capacitor to see if it fixes my 80 mph humming sound (not a vibration). My wife didn't notice it when I brought it up. I haven't driven it that fast since I installed sliders and removed the flux capacitor. Hopefully i'll be able to test it soon.

Hey just a wee thought from my experience - I had a hum, and tried all kinds of things to get rid of it (including replacing the flux capacitor) which didn't work. It wasn't until a long time later that I noticed that my sliders (OPOR for an LX) were touching the foot well body metal - such that there was a direct metal to metal connection between the frame and the body. I lowered the sliders a bit so that there was a healthy gap between the two (so I could squeeze a finger between them), and the hum went away! Man I was so happy - but also frustrated about how long it took me to find it and all the things I tried. So....I guess be smarter than me! I suppose its possible a rock on a trail pushed my sliders up into the body at some point.

On my bolt on OPOR sliders the vertical clamping surface that the u-bolts attach to/thru are pretty tall so it was pretty easy to have them touch the body foot well pan and the frame at the same time. I guess there's a lot of vibration/noise that is in the frame that doesn't get transferred to the body when the two are sufficiently isolated.
 
Love the sliders. I went with the step slider version primarily for my kids sake and to protect my vehicle. They have a generous platform to step on and into the vehicle. The tube style will give you more clearance. However if I went the tube version I kept imaging my little ones foot slipping and maybe breaking an ankle. Didn’t want that to happen.

Nice that's helpful...I have two kids so the non-step versions are out for the same reason. Glad to hear they don't look like wings in person! BIOR is closish to me so it would save a ton on shipping and they're significantly cheaper than SLEE.
 
View attachment 1830091 View attachment 1830092

I finished my re-upholstery of my front seat cushions. I added 1/2" of foam on the 3 center panels and both bolsters. It's too cold here now, but I will play with heat when the weather gets warmer to minimize wrinkles.
My first picture shows the view of the seat bottom. In order to remove the cushion frame you don't need to disconnect all the electrical connections to motors, etc. Really only the seat heater connector at the back needs disconnection. There are several support clamps which hold cables to the seat springs, and they need to be opened. Then there are just 4 bolts that retain the seat cushion. It's still a lot of work and I can see why the labor would be expensive.
Here's the source of the kit:
Toyota Land Cruiser Drivers Seat Bottom 1998-2004 Factory Grey Leather OE Fit | eBay
Thanks,
Dave

How is the quality & fit/finish of the leather? You did a great job and it looks nice man.
 
@trdcorolla



Hey just a wee thought from my experience - I had a hum, and tried all kinds of things to get rid of it (including replacing the flux capacitor) which didn't work. It wasn't until a long time later that I noticed that my sliders (OPOR for an LX) were touching the foot well body metal - such that there was a direct metal to metal connection between the frame and the body. I lowered the sliders a bit so that there was a healthy gap between the two (so I could squeeze a finger between them), and the hum went away! Man I was so happy - but also frustrated about how long it took me to find it and all the things I tried. So....I guess be smarter than me! I suppose its possible a rock on a trail pushed my sliders up into the body at some point.

On my bolt on OPOR sliders the vertical clamping surface that the u-bolts attach to/thru are pretty tall so it was pretty easy to have them touch the body foot well pan and the frame at the same time. I guess there's a lot of vibration/noise that is in the frame that doesn't get transferred to the body when the two are sufficiently isolated.

Don't feel bad......SAME thing happened to me. Once I adjusted the OPOR sliders down, the clunk and vibration went away.
 
@trdcorolla



Hey just a wee thought from my experience - I had a hum, and tried all kinds of things to get rid of it (including replacing the flux capacitor) which didn't work. It wasn't until a long time later that I noticed that my sliders (OPOR for an LX) were touching the foot well body metal - such that there was a direct metal to metal connection between the frame and the body. I lowered the sliders a bit so that there was a healthy gap between the two (so I could squeeze a finger between them), and the hum went away! Man I was so happy - but also frustrated about how long it took me to find it and all the things I tried. So....I guess be smarter than me! I suppose its possible a rock on a trail pushed my sliders up into the body at some point.

On my bolt on OPOR sliders the vertical clamping surface that the u-bolts attach to/thru are pretty tall so it was pretty easy to have them touch the body foot well pan and the frame at the same time. I guess there's a lot of vibration/noise that is in the frame that doesn't get transferred to the body when the two are sufficiently isolated.

When I installed my WKOR sliders I left a good gap between the body and the slider. I'll have a look at the u-bolts to see if they are touching the foot well. I'm hoping this is the case. I'll try look at it this weekend.
 
How is the quality & fit/finish of the leather? You did a great job and it looks nice man.
Thanks.
The leather is matte finish, with very slight grain, much less than Lseat. The color is a great match for unexposed old material, but very slightly lighter than the dirty old leather. The quality and workmanship seems very good. He can supply complete seats, and maybe other parts. They are hand made in USA. I called the seat maker and asked for tips to get the new to look like the old. He suggested 409 on the old leather, then even rub some of the dirt on that cloth onto the new leather. Condition the seats after 409, too. It's a little too cold for me to try that, but I will give it a go, when the Spring comes.
Good luck,
Dave
 
This happened on Saturday part came via Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A14YCF8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 yesterday fixed in about 30 minutes hardest part was fishing out the broken end.

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I remember another member saying his Bross rod (sold on Amazon) broke shortly after install.

Ive done a few ignition cycles so far no issue I will say the metal was a different material the original Toyota felt softer in comparison to the Bross I went ahead and ordered an extra one and am going to purchase a new OEM assembly this was the right now fix that wasnt $180 but that is coming once payday hits. From the threads on here it looks like Toyota has beefed it up to hopefully prevent it from happening in the future.
 
Since my last post, I've build a sleeping platform that was inspired by designs described here on ih8mud (pictured below). The cost for materials was about $270.


And I've gotten the rig some new shoes after a blowout in the Mojave (on the interstate) forced my hand. Took the opportunity to go with 32" Michellin Defender LTX M/S. They would have been nice to have at Oceano Dunes last weekend, but I did OK without them.


Not pictured are the new CA plates that have my amateur radio call sign.
 
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Took the opportunity to go with 32" Michellin Defender LTX M/S.

Had the same prior to moving to an A/T. I loved how smooth and quiet they were, truly great all season, all purpose tire.
 
Lost 2 MPG. Decreased night time visibility.

But dammit she looks good.

Had my 285/75/17 Cooper St Maxx and TRD wheels put on to my new to me LX. With the full TD suspension (but with 865 coils for now) I'm measured at 21.5" up front and I think 22.5" in the rear. Also had 20% ceramic tint applied to all windows and 50% on the wind shield, had a smart start remote system installed, and while they were at it they put my USA Spec blue tooth module in for me. Question: shouldn't my call answer/end buttons be functional with this unit? Everything else works beautifully.

 
WawaWhat!?! Where are you? As a recovering New Jersian, I still miss wawa!

Lost 2 MPG. Decreased night time visibility.

But dammit she looks good.

Had my 285/75/17 Cooper St Maxx and TRD wheels put on to my new to me LX. With the full TD suspension (but with 865 coils for now) I'm measured at 21.5" up front and I think 22.5" in the rear. Also had 20% ceramic tint applied to all windows and 50% on the wind shield, had a smart start remote system installed, and while they were at it they put my USA Spec blue tooth module in for me. Question: shouldn't my call answer/end buttons be functional with this unit? Everything else works beautifully.

 

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