What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (33 Viewers)

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@abuck99 The marlin set is cool because you can choose your own adventure. You could weld directly to the frame or have a shop build plates and gather up the hardware to make them bolt on.
Plus they’re rock crawler quality, built for thrashing, and cost 40% of what “100 series sliders” cost.
 
218,000 miles on my LC now. Last weekend I put on 1.25" Bora wheel spacers and changed the original fuel filter.

Today I did a transmission flush and fill which is a really easy job in a 2003 since it has a dipstick. I think it was the original fluid. Tomorrow I may flush the power steering.

Chris
 
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218,000 miles on my LC now. Last weekend I put on 1.25" Bora wheel spacers and changed the original fuel filter.

Today I did a transmission flush and fill which is a really easy job in a 2003 since it has a dipstick. I think it was the original fluid. Tomorrow I may flush the power steering.

Chris
What fluid for the job?
 
Ordered a new front diff.

A couple of weeks back a small consistent knocking noise started up. Only occurred under power, not while coasting. Slowly got worse. The amazing thing is she still drives.
The gear oil looked like a mirror. I am ordering what I believe to be the safest and best route,OEM. The original made it to 170,000 miles. 40,000 of which have come under my none too subtle driving methods.
I cannot imagine anything outperforming that. View attachment 2553027View attachment 2553026
What wheels are those?
 
Finally replaced the sub, mounted/ran backup camera for Dissent bumper and wired back up lights.

Anyone know how the hell to get this thing to thread on the back driver side panel? I had to unscrew it to get it out. Didn't hear anything fall when doing so. For the life of me I can't get it to thread or hit anything when I'm trying to put it back together.


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Just did the exact same thing a couple weeks ago. There is a rubber grommet that sits in a hole in the body panel behind the trim. You likely pushed that through into the body. It falls and it completely unreachable but shouldn't rattle or anything. Thought about gorilla gluing a compatible nut from a junk drawer onto the hole in the body panel but have not yet dealt with it.
 
Just did the exact same thing a couple weeks ago. There is a rubber grommet that sits in a hole in the body panel behind the trim. You likely pushed that through into the body. It falls and it completely unreachable but shouldn't rattle or anything. Thought about gorilla gluing a compatible nut from a junk drawer onto the hole in the body panel but have not yet dealt with it.
Well fudge. That explains why I didn't hear anything fall. Don't love the idea of gorilla glue b/c I know I'll have to get in there again sometime.

Anyone have a lead on the part number for the grommet to replace it?
 
Well fudge. That explains why I didn't hear anything fall. Don't love the idea of gorilla glue b/c I know I'll have to get in there again sometime.

Anyone have a lead on the part number for the grommet to replace it?
Saw this # on Toyota parts and a different thread on here but unsure if it includes the part that dropped into the body panel:

PT347-60990-HK
 
Cleaned my MAF and Throttle Body today. Figured it couldn't hurt. Getting such horrendous MPG's which is surprising considering I only have 265s... I'd be happy with just 1 extra MPG LOL.

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This is my future, lots of cleaning along with a dab of gasket replacement. Nothing is wrong either, just preventative and general upkeep...
 
Today I almost finished the front drivetrain restoration. Moog sway bar end links, 555 ball joint, EBC stage 6 brakes with blue stuff, thoroughly cleaned, removed rust, painted and coated with RP-342. The wheel hub is already all cleaned up and filled with new Koyo bearings, just going to get back in there and replace all the mangled axle nuts and seals(thanks Lexus) to make sure preload is accurate.

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Stripped down passenger front hub to repack bearings. Some barbarian used gasket goop to seal the flange, which squidged up into the cone washers, so the whole thing was an ordeal. Thanks for the tips in various threads, @2001LC! The hub itself is pretty rusty, with all the coating flaked off. Is it worth disassembling and coating with POR15 to prevent further rust? Also, the bearings look in decent shape but are clearly not OEM - stamp says SKF/China. Worth replacing with Timken, or leave it if they’re in ok shape? I have a feeling my slop was due to improper preload/ clip spacing.

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My hub was about as rusted as you’re is. Getting the rotor off was fun. And there was also silicone sealant over the flange which got the cone washers wedged something awful. I did the file, sand and paint restore because there didn’t appear to be any significance damage. Cheaper than the $400 wheel hub assembly and depending on how well work is going, sometimes worth it😁
 
My hub was about as rusted as you’re is. Getting the rotor off was fun. And there was also silicone sealant over the flange which got the cone washers wedged something awful. I did the file, sand and paint restore because there didn’t appear to be any significance damage. Cheaper than the $400 wheel hub assembly and depending on how well work is going, sometimes worth it😁

Judging by your pictures, yours is in much better shape than mine! No surprise, given your location. I'm going to clean everything up and reuse what I can; I discovered the spindle bearing and oil seal were shot so now I'm waiting on those parts, which gives me time to clean and repaint the knuckle assembly.
 
Yep, all sorts of info to snag besides mechanical. Extra stuff is $9.99

Veepeak OBDCheck BLE OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner Auto OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool for iOS & Android, Bluetooth 4.0 Car Check Engine Light Code Reader Supports Torque, OBD Fusion app Amazon product ASIN B073XKQQQW
 

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