What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (80 Viewers)

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That's awesome!! Any ideas for something like a Scangauge II + 1 switch on each side? Is it possible given there's not a lot of room to work with?
Will do. Now I have a mount for a scangauge, working on the mount for multiple rocker switches. Will do a combo mount that holds one scangauge and one or two rocker switches.
 
This is the free bumper I got from @atnolan94. It was tweaked pretty good and questionable for mounting, but for free, I couldn't pass it up. When I got it home around 2 pm from picking it up, I had it mounted in a couple of hours. I had to fight it pretty good, but eventually I got everything lined up. The issue was on the drivers side at the fender. It was bent to far up, so it didn't line up at all. It was a repair that was done pretty decent actually, but it just didn't match the fender curve. I measured far enough forward to match up to the "good" portion of the original bumper. I then cut that portion of so I could have a clean line to work off of. From there, I used cardboard to make a templet to build a new wing from. Went a picked up my steel and got to work cutting, tacking and shaping the new wing to match the original angles and pattern. I then burned in all the new joints on the wing and tacked it up to the bumper. Got it where I wanted it then burned it in completely. I also braced up the backside as a backup to the welded seam, just for added strength. Then the grinder went to work and then I polished it up so when I painted it the grinder swirls wouldn't show as much. I left a larger gap at the fender for flex than I would have liked, but it's not too bad. I still have to paint the silver fender attachment behind the wing black so it blends in better. On the passenger side the bumper was actually touching the fender as well, and I would hear it hit every time I went over the slightest bump. So I made two relief cuts at the perimeter of the bumper a was able to get the proper gap by forcing the bumper down, the two relief cuts allowed me to do this. Overall I am pleased with the outcome. Mounted some Harbor Freight led fog pods to the front, and wired them into my factory fog light switch. They are actually pretty quality lights for the price. They put out some decent light. Still have to tap into my turn signals and wire them into the turn signals on the ARB then it's finished. Thanks again @atnolan94!
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You are all doing it wrong, OTRAM's method is the easiest no matter where you live--sawsall to the top of shock just under the mount. Takes 25 seconds of cutting and you're done.

Amen. To hell with holes in the body, especially in salty places.
 
Ben, I'd be most interested to see the black panel by the driver's left knee (holds rear window vent switches and OEM locker selector, etc) redone to include the standard OEM buttons, but also an extra switch or two for accessories. Any thoughts? They could even be made to fit Toyota style buttons so everything looks completely factory. Factory look is a big deal to me in the interior.
 
This is the free bumper I got from @atnolan94. It was tweaked pretty good and questionable for mounting, but for free, I couldn't pass it up. When I got it home around 2 pm from picking it up, I had it mounted in a couple of hours. I had to fight it pretty good, but eventually I got everything lined up. The issue was on the drivers side at the fender. It was bent to far up, so it didn't line up at all. It was a repair that was done pretty decent actually, but it just didn't match the fender curve. I measured far enough forward to match up to the "good" portion of the original bumper. I then cut that portion of so I could have a clean line to work off of. From there, I used cardboard to make a templet to build a new wing from. Went a picked up my steel and got to work cutting, tacking and shaping the new wing to match the original angles and pattern. I then burned in all the new joints on the wing and tacked it up to the bumper. Got it where I wanted it then burned it in completely. I also braced up the backside as a backup to the welded seam, just for added strength. Then the grinder went to work and then I polished it up so when I painted it the grinder swirls wouldn't show as much. I left a larger gap at the fender for flex than I would have liked, but it's not too bad. I still have to paint the silver fender attachment behind the wing black so it blends in better. On the passenger side the bumper was actually touching the fender as well, and I would hear it hit every time I went over the slightest bump. So I made two relief cuts at the perimeter of the bumper a was able to get the proper gap by forcing the bumper down, the two relief cuts allowed me to do this. Overall I am pleased with the outcome. Mounted some Harbor Freight led fog pods to the front, and wired them into my factory fog light switch. They are actually pretty quality lights for the price. They put out some decent light. Still have to tap into my turn signals and wire them into the turn signals on the ARB then it's finished. Thanks again @atnolan94!View attachment 2126005View attachment 2126006View attachment 2126007View attachment 2126008View attachment 2126009

awesome man!
 
Started the rust remediation process today. Worst area was the back of the rear axle. Most of the other rust was just along weld seams in the back half of the truck. Thanks to a leaking steering rack, replaced by the previous owner, the front half is about 98% rust free. Used a wire wheel on a grinder and wire bush. I then sprayed the rust with Rust-oleum Rust Reformer. The plan is to let it cure rest of the week and spray Rust-oleum gloss this weekend. My understanding is that gloss is slicker and holds less dirt, grime, salt, etc than a flat paint. I'll then hit the entire undercarriage with Fluid Film following that. My truck is in very good shape and I want to keep it that way.

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I see you are using two sets of Rhino Ramps to work on your truck. I do this too but have read you are not supposed to. Rather, you are only supposed to use one set on one end of the vehicle at a time.

Anyone ever have any issues using 4 Rhino Ramps at one time?
Disclaimer for insurance purposes only lol
 
So my cat back exhaust causes vibrations on occasion. Anyone have the harmonic balancer that attaches to the passenger side frame? Wondering if this would help. I removed mine years ago....
 
I see you are using two sets of Rhino Ramps to work on your truck. I do this too but have read you are not supposed to. Rather, you are only supposed to use one set on one end of the vehicle at a time.

Anyone ever have any issues using 4 Rhino Ramps at one time?
Disclaimer for insurance purposes only lol

I wouldn't have a problem with using a pair for F/R simultaneously, but wouldn't ever want to stack 2 pairs together for extra height. That's how you never get them apart again.
 
Driver side already busted so ordered replacement bulbs. The old head in me went for amber color rather white, now LEDs, better visibility. If you’re an 80s / 90s kid, you’d understand.

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This looks amazing! I want to upgrade all the exterior bulbs to LED to get better visibility and freshen up the look. Where did you purchase the bulbs?
 

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