What happened to my CV joints after lift?

[bhicks]

So I installed a 2.25" lift up front and 1.75" out back. I adjusted the AHC sensors front and rear to gain that height. I then added 40mm coil spacers to the springs out back to help get the AHC number back in spec. I also adjusted the T-bars up front until Techstream showed I was back in spec. I then added some AHC shock spacers from Japan 4x4 to make sure I was riding at the center of the shocks even though I was at the higher "H" setting. Everything rides great and I was very happy with the lift. I am still able to cycle the suspension through a L,N, and H settings without issue. I decided to add some 1" wheel spacers to help with the stance on the new 275/70/18 tires. when I took the front tires off I noticed grease all over the place. It wasn't there when I installed the lift. It looks like it's coming from the end of the boot that covers the CV joint on the front axle shafts. There is grease sprayed all around the fender and suspension components. Not sure what's going on. Did I damage something? Do I need to pick up a Slee Diff Drop Kit? Here is what I found for reference.

 

[TheForger]

2.25" up front puts a pretty steep angle on the CV axles. I would recommend a diff drop to avoid this from reoccurring and you will most likely need a new boot. Check the other side as well.

 

[bhicks]

2.25" up front puts a pretty steep angle on the CV axles. I would recommend a diff drop to avoid this from reoccurring and you will most likely need a new boot. Check the other side as well.

Both sides are identical with the grease carnage. There is grease everywhere. Can the boots be replaced? Do I need to remove the shaft to do that or can it be done with the shaft/brake caliper/hub/etc. still in place?

 

[cap80]

Pull the wheels, clean and check the boots thoroughly. Some times it is just grease seeping out due to the new angles the cv's run through. But a lot of the time the old boots tear. I went up an inch over stock and one tore one didn't. The tear was only 1" long and in the first baffle. I didn't find it until I was really in there cleaning the boot.
If it is just leaking reclamp it with the hose clamps mentioned in a variety of threads here.
And as others have said the diff drop will help.

 

[bluecruiser]

Looks worse than it is, likely any grease/oil leak. Wipe clean, make sure no tears in boots and reclamp. I used Autozone special hose clamps for years. Actually did mine right over the factory clamp because I was lazy. No leaks and no issues for years. If torn, reboot kit for about $50 a side. You very likely did not really mess up anything.

 

[bhicks]

Thanks for the great info guys. I will check the boots when I get home this evening and orders parts accordingly. Looks like I will be ordering a drop bracket kit as well.

 

[cap80]

I used a peice of bike inner tube and zip ties to seal mine up till it gets replaced. Working like a champ.

 

[yeti in ga]

get used to it.... I wonder what others are seeing in terms of replacement or reboot time between fails on a lifted truck with and with out diff drop. Maybe I just have bad luck..

 

[bhicks]

Got home from work and it was dark. I'm gonna get out the pressure washer this weekend and get all the grease out of there then do a really good inspection. will pick up some good hose clamps some time this week. Hopefully I wont need new boots. We will see.

 

[cap80]

I'd be careful with the pressure washer. You can drive dirt and water in to the cv if there is a tear or potentially even under the end if it has loosened at all. If you can't immediately re-boot the contaminants won't be good for the cv. The bike tube I used has 1 1/2 full wraps of rubber over the tear and I put it on before going after the rest of the mess. I cleaned with rags, covered the tear then scrubbed the rest with soapy water and a brush and rinsed with a hose. I always am a bit concerned with pressure washers and any bearing assembly. Seen too many bike bearings destroyed by pressure washer induced contamination in my years as a bike mechanic.

 

[wngrog]

The rubber gets a memory.....if you mess with the lift at all.....even a 1/2" they will leak.

I put new boots on mine after the lift and saved the CVs before they got contaminated. Way less $$$

 

[Manhattan]

Brian, at ACC, explained it to me like this... "Your axles were spinning happily at that angle for 100,000 miles. If you change that, even a little - up or down, expect that to be when the leaks start". I asked about a dif' drop. Brian didn't feel it was necessary - and would not have made a difference - with that amount of lift.

 

[bhicks]

I'd be careful with the pressure washer. You can drive dirt and water in to the cv if there is a tear or potentially even under the end if it has loosened at all. If you can't immediately re-boot the contaminants won't be good for the cv. The bike tube I used has 1 1/2 full wraps of rubber over the tear and I put it on before going after the rest of the mess. I cleaned with rags, covered the tear then scrubbed the rest with soapy water and a brush and rinsed with a hose. I always am a bit concerned with pressure washers and any bearing assembly. Seen too many bike bearings destroyed by pressure washer induced contamination in my years as a bike mechanic.

I wasn't actually going to pressure wash the boot. I planned to hand clean that. It's the grease that's all over everything else that I want to pressure wash. I will wrap up the boots in a heavy trash bag and duct tape while I do the pressure washing then remove and clean. I might just order new boots anyways so I wont have a future issue.

 

[bhicks]

So I went to order new boots and looked at the install instructions. They are showing removal of the outer hub to expose the outer shaft. Says I have to slide the boot off and slide the new one on. Makes sense BUT that is a LOT of work to just replace a rubber boot. Is there a way to replace without removing the entire outer assembly? Maybe someone who makes a two piece design or something?

 

[n55luvr]

It is a lot of work. I'd personally clean everything really good, reband the existing boots and call it a day. If you notice a crack later in life then address with new boots at that time.

PFRAN sells really nice new straps with rounded edges. I put them on about 10k miles ago and lifted my front end an inch and have not had a single issue. No tears and no grease leakage. I also used a needle adapter on my grease gun and put several pumps of fresh grease into the boots on each side cause I had no way of telling how much grease was lost over the years while PO owned it.

 

[bluecruiser]

yep, it all has to come apart. I literally used autozone clamps over the factory clamps for 100K plus miles. No CV issues at all. Diff drop is standard issue, but I have seen guys to fine without it, as well. Like someone said, not really that much lift. You lose a little ground clearance with diff drop too...

 

[TheForger]

Toyota does make a split-boot to be used as a quick replacement if your OEM one fails and you still need to use the truck for some time. Seems like a good design, it is just not intended for long term usage.

Toyota Genuine Parts: Split Boot Kits

 

[Emcd]

Do you have a picture of your needle adapter? I need to do the same thing, add a bit more grease.

 

[DFXR]

I agree with above - if the boots are not torn anywhere, you can just clean and re-clamp. But keep an eye on them - 2-1/2 inches is a big change up front so expect more leaking until you install the diff drop. Did you level the front to the back?

One of my boots eventually ripped completely at the smaller ring, about 2 years after I re-clamped them, which was about 6 months after going up an inch and a half. New boots definitely means pulling the outer assembly.

 

[DFXR]

Toyota does make a split-boot to be used as a quick replacement if your OEM one fails and you still need to use the truck for some time. Seems like a good design, it is just not intended for long term usage.

Toyota Genuine Parts: Split Boot Kits

I looked into getting this split boot kit recently when a friend was in Australia. According to the dealers there that I emailed with, this kit is for the outboard boot, not the inboard one that we have problems with. Bummer, b/c it was almost a great solution.

Quote from Toyota parts guy in Sydney: "Split boot kits are only for the outer boot closest to the wheel."

edited 11/21