What gear ratio should you choose for your Re-Gear (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 30, 2019
Threads
6
Messages
20
Location
Huntsville Alabama
Its been alittle over a year since me and a buddy Re-geared my 80, took us a few days to do it all. I was torn between 4.88 and 5.29 because I was running 35's and I still am currently. I used a rpm-mph chart for my car to get an idea on what rpm I would be at most common cruising speeds as I didn't want to run to high. I ended up and decided on 5.29 gears as I didn't to to much Highway driving, I run at about 2900 rpm at 70 mph which is high but I've been on multiple trips (5 hour +) and many trips with no issues as of how temps run between 195-205 depending what time of year and if A/C is on. just to get a reference I decided to do a 0-60 before and after to just see what the difference would be. I used a usb scan gauge to get an accurate reading and before I was sitting at 11.998 and after I ran a 9.87 this really isn't a big deal to me but it defiantly reflects how it drives. Offroad before the Re-gear I was always feeling that low range just wasn't LO Enough, I know they make transfer reduction gear kits but I wasn't really interested at the time. After the re-gear the truck has leaps and bounds more Lo range the car has a stupid slow crawl you feel like your finally in control offroad in any obstacle and not just at the mercy of the vehicle. If I were to do it again I probably would go with 5.29 again but I'm curious what 4.56 and a transfer case reduction gear would look like on and offroad. If you have any questions or input drop a comment.

Will B
 
4.56 with 35's is pretty standard across the board for a rig that sees the freeway. I have a CJ7 on 35's with 4.56, 4:1 in the transfer case, 4:1 first gear (5 speed manual) and a 4.6L inline 6. I don't know its zero to 60, but it's FAST on the street and low range is perfect for technical rock crawling. High range 4wd is fine for a lot of trails, but to be honest I miss the stock low range for technical muddy sections of trail. With all the extra junk on it, it's probably only 400-500lbs less than a built 80 series. I know it's not a Cruiser, so take it FWIW.

edit: forgot to mention it's great on the freeway, cruises at 80mph no problem, can easily overtake semis on inclines going 70+. It's probably pushing 250hp, and the power band is very similar to a 1FZ
 
Last edited:
In the middle installing 4.56s in my rig. I've heard the argument that there's no real point in the expense to gear to 4.56 over stock 4.11s because the difference isn't significant, but 4.56 with 35" tires equals the same cruise RPMs as factory gears with stock tires. Also in the middle of a V8 conversion, so power wasn't my primary concern and I don't toss my rig at the rocks every weekend, so YMMV.

Random, totally subjective side note - I've never been a fan of the pattern I get out of really low gears and I've had failures in other vehicles when I've been running seriously low gear sets, leading to a couple of failures (pinion flex and chunked crown gears on two sets of 5.38s - admittedly, on nitrous). I'd rather my crown and pinion not be my point of failure and I've had better luck with taller gears and their accompanying larger pinions. I also prefer the slower driveline RPM at cruise for a smoother ride.
 
I installed 4.56 with 33" stock TC, for me it is ideal both on highway and rocks I know that if I would install 4.88 I would regret this on the highway

gear1 on Low is very low and when going down I do not have to use the brakes and use the throttle to control my speed
 
I have stock gears and 315's. If I regear it will be 4.88's. 1) it's tried and true, very many mudders run this gear/tire combo. 2) I've always preferred the feel of lower gearing. One of my favorite cars to date was a 1991 Civic Si which was absolutely screaming in 5th gear on the interstate, but had pep to spare in every gear.

I also had a couple 4runners with a 3.4, 5-speed manual, stock diff gears, and 33's. I felt no need whatsoever to regear in those trucks. Manual makes it easy to just leave it in a lower gear and pretend 5th doesn't exist until you're over the pass. But now I've been spoiled by an auto on the trail (and i-70 weekend traffic jams) and I don't think I would go back.
 
Last edited:
For my daily driver LA crawler on 35s, 4.88 gearing is not ideal. I wouldn’t stay stock, but it’s not IDEAL.

Most LA drivers speed at 80-90mph on the regular. I don’t like > gps verified 70mph or ~75mph on the dash. NVH is probably my least fav thing about my 80. It hands down cruises relatively more smoothly and quietly on the stock gears + 35s.

And I’ve got the right caster with the help of delta arms, delta panhard bracket, fully refreshed OEM rubber, new tie rods on your typical 2.5” OME medium lift.
 
In my opinion my deciding factor was that I Don't really drive Highway much but with those 5.29's passing is not a problem! But you do hit a wall at about 80mph. just depends on how you wanna use your rig. I don't think I'll have to worry about pinion size since my engine hardly puts out any power but for a V8 swap it would be a bad idea with 5.29's.
 
There is also the high range overdrive tcase gears. 5.29 goes to 4.76. It's my plan for my 315 and 5.29 gears rig. 37s might be in my plans when it's time for new tires too.
 
I like to haul ass cross country, wheel, haul ass home. 80 mph at 2950 rpms. 315’s + 4.88. Low range reduction gear. Perfect.

So you are driving "cross country" at an indicated 85mph+ on an unmolested stock speedo on 35s w/ 4.88s? I'd love to check this out.
 
So you are driving "cross country" at an indicated 85mph+ on an unmolested stock speedo on 35s w/ 4.88s? I'd love to check this out.
you can get a speedo recalibrator and get it spot on I used Yellowbox there an australian company and its stupid easy to set up and have my 5.29 with 35's perfect on the speedo
 
So you are driving "cross country" at an indicated 85mph+ on an unmolested stock speedo on 35s w/ 4.88s? I'd love to check this out.
My speedo is perfectly calibrated. What is it you’re questioning?
 
I recently had to make this decision myself. I ended up going with 4:88's because I don't wheel that hard and I'm planning an engine swap at some point down the road. I'm not sure how much of a concern strength is with 5.29's, but it's nice knowing it's not something I have to worry about. If I find I need more gear I'll re-gear the transfer case.
 
5.29’s and 37’s are doing great for daily driving. About 2700 at 70 by the eyeball. Just got my 500mi break in taken care of so will be wheeling before too long and will update.
 
I went with 4.88 on my 92 3FE on 35s. I was between that and 5.29, but the tech recommended 4.88 for highway use.
 
My speedo is perfectly calibrated. What is it you’re questioning?

I'm questioning another person's tolerance to NVH to my own. My tolerance level dips precipitously above GPS 75mph. Maybe it's my truck, maybe it's me, maybe other people are much more tolerant with diff standards?
 
4.88 and 33s for a 3FE equipped 80.
4.88 and 35s for a 1FZ equipped 80.
I ran 4.56 for a few years and it just doesn't make enough difference from stock.
I daily drive and do some extensive road trips and it gets wheeled on the rocks when I get the chance.
 
I'm questioning another person's tolerance to NVH to my own. My tolerance level dips precipitously above GPS 75mph. Maybe it's my truck, maybe it's me, maybe other people are much more tolerant with diff standards?
All day long...

2FC3FACE-3A92-421F-ACA7-002B2725D296.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom