What Gasoline Fuel Grade to Use?

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Diesel, or vegetable oil depending if I want to appear green or not. That’s what I do at least
 
Also, as per a Toyota manual, I'm pretty sure they recommend using 91 octane, but that way back in the day when gasoline probably contained lead and also ethenol free.....

Ethenol free gas: burns cooler, cleans out carbon better, can still ignite after sitting stagnant for over 1 year, smells better, better gas milage, does not evaporate out from the carb like ethenol gas, lubricates.

Ethenol gas: smells bad, can attract water and rust out metal parts over time, turns "sugary" and can sludge over after being left unattended for long periods of time, damages metals such as aluminum (which is what Carburetors are made of), burns hotter, worse fuel mileage, goes bad after several months.


I actually do feel a difference between ethenol and ethenol free gas....

When I compare ethenol gas to each other, I am Unable to tell the difference between 86, 88, 91, and 93 octane. Just that they get more expensive. The Toyota land cruiser engine doesn't seem to notice a difference.
 
Also, as per a Toyota manual, I'm pretty sure they recommend using 91 octane, but that way back in the day when gasoline probably contained lead and also ethenol free.....

Ethenol free gas: burns cooler, cleans out carbon better, can still ignite after sitting stagnant for over 1 year, smells better, better gas milage, does not evaporate out from the carb like ethenol gas, lubricates.

Ethenol gas: smells bad, can attract water and rust out metal parts over time, turns "sugary" and can sludge over after being left unattended for long periods of time, damages metals such as aluminum (which is what Carburetors are made of), burns hotter, worse fuel mileage, goes bad after several months.


I actually do feel a difference between ethenol and ethenol free gas....

When I compare ethenol gas to each other, I am Unable to tell the difference between 86, 88, 91, and 93 octane. Just that they get more expensive. The Toyota land cruiser engine doesn't seem to notice a difference.
Thank you so much @DesertFJ40. Very valuable insights. Truly appreciate this.
 
The original '75 owner's manual:
Anti-Knock Index - 86 or higher
Research Octane No. - 90 or higher

Who knows how that translates to whatever is available.
I'm burning mid-grade, with up to 10% corn, and Techron detergent.
If octane doesn't enhance knock-resistance in regard to glowing carbon, then use low grade. But, if it helps then use mid, or high grade. But, I doubt that the internet will easily reveal such information. These motors have no knock sensor, and if you can hear knock, the problem is probably, already, way out of hand.
 
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I'f you can get ethenol free gasoline, buy it! If it contains ethenol, it doesn't matter what "octane" you buy, it's all trash that burns hotter, eats away at our carbs, hardens our rubber fuel hoses, and can rust away our tanks.

Of course, they say as long as you keep driving a vehicle that contains ethenol fuel, you shouldn't have a problem; but If you have the choice, support your ethenol free fuel station.

Unfortunately they shut down the station I had in my city. The next closest one was about 100 miles away
Thank you so much for this very enriching insight. I'll take note of all these practical observations @DesertFJ40 .
 
My Wallyworld has ethanol free, that’s choice 1. Otherwise plain 87 unless it’s it the summer and hot as F, then I will go mid grade 89 so I don’t ping. Ethanol free doesn’t seem to boil in the carb bowl after shutdown on a hot day.
Thank you @77mustard40. Appreciate much your insights.
 
The original '75 owner's manual:
Anti-Knock Index - 86 or higher
Research Octane No. - 90 or higher

Who knows how that translates to whatever is available.
I'm burning mid-grade, with up to 10% corn, and Techron detergent.
If octane doesn't enhance knock-resistance in regard to glowing carbon, then use low grade. But, if it helps then use mid, or high grade. But, I doubt that the internet will easily reveal such information. These motors have no knock sensor, and if you can hear knock, the problem is probably, already, way out of hand.
Thank you @Dizzy for your valuable recommendations. Will take note of these.
 
I'f you can get ethenol free gasoline, buy it! If it contains ethenol, it doesn't matter what "octane" you buy, it's all trash that burns hotter, eats away at our carbs, hardens our rubber fuel hoses, and can rust away our tanks.

Of course, they say as long as you keep driving a vehicle that contains ethenol fuel, you shouldn't have a problem; but If you have the choice, support your ethenol free fuel station.

Unfortunately they shut down the station I had in my city. The next closest one was
Thank you very much for your sound insights and recommendations. Unfortunately, it looks like it is very difficult to find an Ethanol-Free gasoline in my country. However, I saw a Fuel Additive product of Bell called Ethanol Defense Commercial Grade as ethanol treatment that one can use every fill up to balance mixture. Let me know what are your thoughts on this additive product. Thank you once again.
 
You can probably find ethanol free fuel at an airport. It may be a bit pricey, but worth the cost in the long run.
 
Here are two videos that go into a "garage experiment" of how ethenol fuel competes with non ethenol fuel as well as if these fuel adatives work. At least from the ones he uses in his test, the fuel adatives didn't really make a difference. It's been a while since I watched it, but it's pretty interesting.

Don't stress having to find a ethenol free fuel station. I've put in ethenol gas and I'm sure the majority of the users on ih8mud have as well. You can suposedly run a vehicle with 10% ethenol gas but anything more than that it can screw up internal parts. Here in the United States, you can sometimes find 15% ethenol gas (also called E-85 gas) meant for fuel efficient vehicles. It can suposedly screw up vehicles if you run with it. Just kinda goes to show that the combustion engine doesn't like ethenol gas.


Ethenol fuel benifits


Fuel adative
 
I have run gas that was 10 years old through my FJ40s 2F
It didn't care.
 
You can probably find ethanol free fuel at an airport. It may be a bit pricey, but worth the cost in the long run.
That would be 100 octane, low-lead in avgas. I used to run a 50/50 mixture of this and unleaded gasoline. But, you need gated access to those pumps and it is frowned upon unless you taxi up in an airplane. Just my $.02 as an aircraft owner and a Cruiserhead.

Some boat marinas have ethanol-free fuel, which is a better option if you can’t find it at a gas station via Puregas.org.
 
Here are two videos that go into a "garage experiment" of how ethenol fuel competes with non ethenol fuel as well as if these fuel adatives work. At least from the ones he uses in his test, the fuel adatives didn't really make a difference. It's been a while since I watched it, but it's pretty interesting.

Don't stress having to find a ethenol free fuel station. I've put in ethenol gas and I'm sure the majority of the users on ih8mud have as well. You can suposedly run a vehicle with 10% ethenol gas but anything more than that it can screw up internal parts. Here in the United States, you can sometimes find 15% ethenol gas (also called E-85 gas) meant for fuel efficient vehicles. It can suposedly screw up vehicles if you run with it. Just kinda goes to show that the combustion engine doesn't like ethenol gas.


Ethenol fuel benifits


Fuel adative
Thanks much @DesertFJ40 . I appreciate the 2 attachments in your message. Very well said. For now I guess I just need to be contented on what is only available right now (Unleaded Gasoline w/ 91 Octane & 10% Ethanol ) in my area that's more or less doable for my cruiser. Hopefully there is a way to manage in the future the rust that ethenol will bring to my rig. Thanks again.
 
Here in the United States, you can sometimes find 15% ethenol gas (also called E-85 gas)

This isn't quite correct - E-85 contains 85% ethanol and can only be used in modern, 'flex-fuel' vehicles that are labeled as such. Never appropriate for a stock FJ40.

You can sometimes buy E-15 fuel that contains 15% ethanol, but in my view, that's 50% worse than regular Ethanol gas that is typically 10% or less. The chain of convenience stores called 'Kum and Go' sell E-15, and it would be easy to use this if you were just seeking the 'cheapest gas' they sold. Beware. Farm states (Iowa) are extra big on Ethanol, so pay more attention for crap gas (there, I said it) in states big on corn farming.
 
I’ve always run Marvel Mystery Oil in my fuel. It’ll keep your fuel tank from rusting as well. I feel it keeps everything protected with a super thin film of oil. Back when I owned an antique airplane, I ran MMO in that as well. Anyone else?
 
Keeping drunken-gasoline away from humidity will help keep it from absorbing water?

Having a jerry can, or two, at home might help keep humid air out, by keeping the tank topped up? The plastic Blitz one doesn't appear to vent, but maybe it has a limit?

I'd bet that most of the tank rust experience on FJ40s was due to derelict conditions, but, that is just a wager based on a hunch.

I'm more concerned with the stock fuel pump, and anything soft, that is aged faster due to the modern buzz.

IIAC, the non-ethanol formula was really low in octane, and really high in price (double), here in town.
 
I’ve always run Marvel Mystery Oil in my fuel. It’ll keep your fuel tank from rusting as well. I feel it keeps everything protected with a super thin film of oil. Back when I owned an antique airplane, I ran MMO in that as well. Anyone else?

Some of the antique motorcycles that I've had over the years used to say in the owner's manual to add "upper cylinder lubricant" to every tank of gas, so I used MMO for that for a long time. Nowadays, I will put a bit of diesel fuel in most of my gas tanks every now and then, at least those with carb'ed engines.
 

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