What do you think of this 40 project?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

cruiser4life said:
100% agree with Alan. The way you jump into things is one of the things I respect most about you. Your zeal is calculated, thought out and a blast!!!

Fame and fortune might not be your thing, me neither, but being comfortable and doing your thing seems to be your path. You've got a gift my friend, don't ever lose sight of that!

QUOTE]

thanks andy you guys are the best, really :beer: :beer: .......... you are going to make me blush :grinpimp:
 
sometimes

Sometimes you just have to "do it". I don't think you will be
going wrong with this truck as an entry 40. With that said
I'd sure check out what is behind those 1/4 panels. Rust
never sleeps. Bad rust is about the worst thing to find.
Fixing the stuff is a major job. PIA at it's best!
Take your time and enjoy the trip to the Cruiser of your dreams.
I sure hope this works out and you get another 40 in the club. :grinpimp:
 
Who cares about rust. That just give me more reason to chop the hell out of it. I'd buy it and wheel the crap out of it, its not a show truck its a trail rig, only Alan is allowed to have both.
 
VTCruiser said:
i am not saying $3000 isn't a fair price, hjust all depends on what kind of project you want to get into...

Word / Ditto.
 
Well I aksed a few more ?'s over last night. Getting more pics today hopefully.

He responded saying someone is sending a cashier's check to him. He said he will let me know if it is still avail in a few days.

So if its not sold I still have to talk to the wife more. She's not looking at this as a possibility. :( So if this is a no from her or its sold it looks like the 62 will just get built up more. Which might be best at this point in my life.

Can anyone in the club set up gears in thirds etc? Or can install a third with an ARB installed already? (David Dearborn has that set of 4.88 thirds for sale last I checked.)

I do thank all of you for your responce. I hope to meet more of you than I already have in March for the trail ride.
 
Saw that one, but its stock (Although running) and he openly says it has bondo and fiberglass done and it was not preatty.

At this point I think I may be better served if I just build up the 62.

- Just sucks that parts cost so much. Especially when you can buy something for basically wht the mods would cost you to do. Makes me wish I could have junk cars in my yard. (Darn town) I could prob part out some rigs and sell of parts and make cash!
- Like the 60 I considered a year or so ago out west. Had dual ARB's, 4.88's, lift, rebuilt 2f, tranny and TC, not much rust, etc, etc. FOr $3500. I passed on it, b/c of distance. But Man looking at it now I should have bought it and used the parts. Then sold it.

Urggh Rant over .....
 
All in all, it's a smoking deal, but expect to spend several hundred to a few thousand to get it trailable (don't fool yourself) - including tires and the ever ongoing odds and ends stuff - especially getting the engine running. Couple of observations - but better pics would help:

1) Not an AA adapter - 1" Mike Smythe style plate adapter (reworked output shaft with cotter pin style retainer) - just as good and opens up more options for fitting up spare shafts that I bet a bunch of club members might have lying around. Would like to know if new clutch or not - install looks good in pic.

2) Doors, hard top and amby could might be sold "quick" to offset some cost - except for the fact you physcos play in the snow and kold you don't need the liability of not being able to squeeze thru spots, which you'll need that thing is so tall.

3) Floorboards, firewall, cowl, windshield, rear floor and inner fenders sure look solid in the pics - that's a good indicator of how serious rust might be - if a trail truck who cares what the rear fenders look like.

4) High steer arms might need to be upgraded if they're homegrown - $$$

5) With an SM420 the difference between 4.10's and 4.88's on the trail is neglible - driving on the street with 38's is a different story... Save the money and run the 4.10's and Auburns.

6) D-shafts would run $60 each down here.

7) Brakes?

If you've got the time, work space and a bit of extra this would be a great trail truck.
 
I figured I would go ahead and post these PM's. Since alot of questions being asked are covered within them. Again at this point looking to see if its sold or not and more pics. If its not and I can get him down to $2500 I may just have to see if I can twist the wifes are a little and tell her what a smokin' deal it is :)

This is the first PM he sent me.

Mathew, Sorry about the delay in my response.

The FJ-40 is sprung over with turned knuckles and high steer competed. The steering box is manual not power steering, although it turns well with 38's on it. The original spring under perches are stll there. You can roll and steer it, I've done it a couple of times to get it on the trailer.

Completed;

The drive-trane is in the Yota. Engine Longblock <30,000 miles on an 1-F, not rebuilt, original miles. The engine is attatched to an SM-420 Granny low tranny, with advanced adapter to the stock Yota 4-speed T-case. All installed in the Yota. New gaskets, sealss, and new clutch and throw-out bearing. You will need to put on and hook up the engine ancillaries. This is what I have;

-brand new in the box, Weber carb still shrink wrapped

-all the original ancillaries, except the distributor (which I'm hoping to find in my friends overstuffed garage,)

you will need spark plugs, hoses, nutts and bolts (although I have a box full of bolts to go with it).

The original radiator is there, but looks like it needs to be replaced.

The interior is stripped, no carpet, seats, but dash and gauges are still in place, steering column, pedals, all in place.

Rust has been completely removed, i.e. cut out of rear fenders, and aluminum diamond plated. There is surface rust on the floor boards up front, but not through rudted. The hard doors and top have surface rust, but no through rust. The driver's side door as a gash in it about 3"es long, looks like someone hit it with a hatchet. The rear ambulance door have through rust on bottom of doors. The running boards are good, no through rust, the fenders are good no through rust. has headlights, although I haven't found the bezels for the lights, again, they may be in his garage. there aren't any tail lights either.

The frame looks good, no through rust that I've seen. the front has been stripped and painted.

The axles are complete and installed. Have 4:10 gears, pwertrax no slip lockers front and rear (brand new never used), i think the seals and bearings are all new. The rear brakes are rebuilt, never used. The fronts have new calipers that need to be installed, and I think the rotors are new too. You will need brake lines. the front axle was stripped of paint, and repainted, the rear axle was partially strpped of it's paint.

You will need exhaust, and i haven't found the exhaust manifold yet, but prob. in his garage.

The tires are completely bald, the ones in the pics were sold with the rims. The bald TSLs all hold air though, and are good rollers to get it on a trailer, even to flat tow it if you wanted.

The rims are 15x8 black rock crawlers. they are in good shape.

The d-shafts will need to be lengthened. i have both of the originals. The spring over was done with flipped springs to lengthen wheel base.

There is a front bumper, and i have a tow bar I can put on it for you to flat tow it if you want for an extra $100.

All the windows are there, and all the seals look good. the original faded paint remains on the Yota.

I have the original front seats, and one jump seat. I also have some newer Jeep seats that go with it too.

I hope this helps you. I think it's an excellent project, that just needs alot of bolt on type work. most parts are there, some expensive brand new parts like the weber. I will continue to look for the missing parts in my friends garage. But I think I've priced it fairly without even having those parts with it.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask.
 
Here is the one he sent this AM.

Matt,

I understand your questions. I have 5 people looking at it right now including yourself. One member of this board is sending a cashier's check today for the FJ, so I think it's a serious deal. If things don't work out, I will let you know.

I will still get some more pictures this Friday morning and send them evening.

The 2F to 1F was a strange way to go I admit. My friend got an offer for a low milleage 1F for his high milleage 2F, if he would do the swap (actually do the work). He saw the Toyota that the 1F was in and it was pristine with < than 30,000 miles. So that's how the swap occurred.

The tires are completely bald, but hold air. SS TSLs are very thick, so there aren't any cords showing. They make good rollers though. It's hard to believe that someone would be able to wear them this much, but they were on a 17 y/o's CJ. I bought the rims and he gave me the tires already on them. I guess those tires have seen a few burn-outs. The tires on the FJ in the pictures were sold. They were brand new.

I will have to look for the linkage, although I think I remeber seeing it when we loaded parts into the Yota.

The front seats have good original covers on them, with no tears that I can remeber, but the foam felt a little crunchy. I have too really nice Jeep seats that go with it. The brackets for the seats are on the origianal seats.

Brake lines, you will need the rubber, or stainless short lines. The hard lines are on the Toy, I think one hard line for the front is inside the Yota.

I will look and answer the rest of the questions after I get the pics.

Take care, I'll let you know if it's still available in a couple of days.
 
Gundy said:
Sometimes you just have to "do it". I don't think you will be
going wrong with this truck as an entry 40. With that said
I'd sure check out what is behind those 1/4 panels. Rust
never sleeps. Bad rust is about the worst thing to find.
Fixing the stuff is a major job. PIA at it's best!
Take your time and enjoy the trip to the Cruiser of your dreams.
I sure hope this works out and you get another 40 in the club. :grinpimp:

Very true.

A Cruiser is a journey, not a destination.
 
I hope everyone had a great weekend! Mine we alright. (We all have some kind of sinus bug.) Good news and bad news.

Good news is that the deal fell through with the other guy!! So he says I am next in line if I want it. I am still waiting on other pics.

Bad news: I dont know if I can or know how to even talk with the wife about this. (I have had several projects, but none currently. So I could go at it saying I got the bug and need somethng to tinker on?) BUT, the biggest issue for her is that I dont need another cruiser. "Especially one we (the family) cannot all fit in. Spend the $ on the 62, not on another vehicle." [Which I think is a valde argument, but man it would be sweet to have a trail/around town 40.] We dont play games with each other (we are honest, etc.) Most of the time, we ballance each other out. Just want an honest way to at least try and convice her.

Any advice here would be great. From what I can tell everyone from the club will be (and have been) supportive either way. With help and advice. Thanks everyone!

I also saw the 82 fj40 on here and the guy is getting me more pics. Looks like it may have tons of rust. (Hopefully will be able to tell how much with more pics.) He is trying to flip it (to make some extra $) so that could be a factor. (Its $1500)

- Lastly I sent Dearborn a PM about the 4.88 3rds and he says they are spoken for until wed. (Although, I am not sure I will be able to run 35's now after I got my lift on Friday.) So I could hold off on gears for awhile (If I stick with 33's and dont do a BL) Again I am not sure I want to spend tons of $ on the 62, but its not perfect either and have considered making it a trail rig eventually. (And I have told the wife that b/f)

OK thats the end of my rant/typing for tonight. Had to see what you guys thought again. As I am not sure what direction to go.

Have a great Monday!! :) :)
 
I now have pictures. Looks like there is plenty of rust as stated b/f (could realistically use a new tub), but lots of parts are included. I sent him an offer and we will see what he says.

Biggest change in his story is its not Cut and Turned (Urgggh) and the engine has less than 60K miles not 30K.

We will see what he says. And then I will talk it over with the wife. If he turns the offer down I will pass I think.

I do not totally agree Trollhole about 60 vs 40, but thats prob b/c I own a 60 series now. Biggest thing about the 60 I love is that it will hold the entire family. I just wish my 62 didnt have so much rust.

FJ40050.jpg

Rocker rust
1006.jpg

Behind front pass. seat rust.
1005.jpg

underneath rust
1075.jpg

1072.jpg

front axle SOA job, cannot really see the high steer here. Its is a homeade cut and reweld. (Says by a cet. welder.)
1026.jpg
 
Last edited:
Trollhole said:
get the 40. The more money you dump in the 62 the less it will be worth. There are reasons people build 40's compared to 60's.

say what, I should have expected as much from you :flipoff2: it may be true more people build 40's most likely because of their short wheelbase and more compact size for the trail but from what I have seen, nice built 60 series fetch a pretty penny too....... and as we all know regardless of what cruiser you build you will never get your money back out of it :D


okay back to the pics....... if that was a cut-n-turn job shouldn't the pinon be point more upwards towards the t-case??? maybe it is the angel of the pic.
 
ClemsonCruiser said:
okay back to the pics....... if that was a cut-n-turn job shouldn't the pinon be point more upwards towards the t-case??? maybe it is the angel of the pic.


It has not had a cut 'n turn. Has not. He thought it did, but it didnt. Thats a negative for me as more work to do to get it worthy. Along with the highsteer. We will see if he accepts my offer or not.

Then I should know what I am going to do.
 
ClemsonCruiser said:
say what, I should have expected as much from you :flipoff2: it may be true more people build 40's most likely because of their short wheelbase and more compact size for the trail but from what I have seen, nice built 60 series fetch a pretty penny too....... and as we all know regardless of what cruiser you build you will never get your money back out of it :D
Yes you are right a nice 60 or 62 nicely done with no rust and immaculant will run you 9k to 15k. Alex has a real nice example of one. A 40 in the same condition will run 15k + Some of them I have seen are very expensive. A built 40 with the same amount of money dumped into it as any 60 or 62 will always ask for more of a premium. No offense to the 60 series as they are great vehicles. But the older the vehicle model the more of a premium it will fetch.

It pretty simple JP. Think about it. Your 62 when you bought it was built pretty well and really nice. Think about what you paid for it. Now think about your 40 and how much you would have had to pay for it if it had the same milage and be is the same condition.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom