ClemsonCruiser
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I know 40's fetch more, it is the "nostalgia" cruiser........... I wasn't really trying to get into a debate here with you Mr. Shepard, rather trying to give you a hard time 
What do you think of this 40 project?
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- #42
OK, well he thought my offer was low. But wasn't insulted 
And says that the last deal he had the stopper was the cut and turn as well. (He doesnt seem to think thats a big deal.) I just dont have the tools to do it, and it means tearing into the "rebuilt" axle. (I say rebuilt as you never know what a PO has done.)
- The powertrax no-slip lockers, how much would they be worth if I sold them seperate? They are more expensive than the lockrights new.
Got to go out for lunch now, but will have more to type when I get back.
And says that the last deal he had the stopper was the cut and turn as well. (He doesnt seem to think thats a big deal.) I just dont have the tools to do it, and it means tearing into the "rebuilt" axle. (I say rebuilt as you never know what a PO has done.)
- The powertrax no-slip lockers, how much would they be worth if I sold them seperate? They are more expensive than the lockrights new.
Got to go out for lunch now, but will have more to type when I get back.
So does that mean he's considering your offer? Or that he's rejected it all together?
I'm kind of a sucker for a built 60/2 though. I kind of want to throw my vote into the "build the 62" pot... But being a 40 owner, I gotta love the 40... although rust sucks, and so does having a F when it should be a 2F... haha, and the upside down bezel... tell him that should bring it down to your price, disrespect for the cruiser automatically means forfeit of rights to haggle prices.
I'm kind of a sucker for a built 60/2 though. I kind of want to throw my vote into the "build the 62" pot... But being a 40 owner, I gotta love the 40... although rust sucks, and so does having a F when it should be a 2F... haha, and the upside down bezel... tell him that should bring it down to your price, disrespect for the cruiser automatically means forfeit of rights to haggle prices.
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- #44
Well,
Got him down to a good price by letting him keep a few parts:
He is keeping the following:
- Jeep seats (He has original fj40 seats too with no rips, just need new foam as they are a little "crunchy". So I am going to use them.)
- Weber carb (He has original carb and I would rather run it.)
- Bald 38's and rims. (I didnt figure I could get much $ out of the tires and would end up with them sitting in my yard) So I am going to run the stock rims and 31's off my 62 for the time being. (Rollers or if I make it go back SUA.) These will fit right?
Going to talk with the wife over the next few days and see what I can get done on my end.
He is going to take some more pics for me on Wed. I wanted some advice on what to get pics of that might be a concern. Or should be clarified. (I have more pics than I posted just want to get more feedback from you guys.)
Thanks again!!
Got him down to a good price by letting him keep a few parts:
He is keeping the following:
- Jeep seats (He has original fj40 seats too with no rips, just need new foam as they are a little "crunchy". So I am going to use them.)
- Weber carb (He has original carb and I would rather run it.)
- Bald 38's and rims. (I didnt figure I could get much $ out of the tires and would end up with them sitting in my yard) So I am going to run the stock rims and 31's off my 62 for the time being. (Rollers or if I make it go back SUA.) These will fit right?
Going to talk with the wife over the next few days and see what I can get done on my end.
He is going to take some more pics for me on Wed. I wanted some advice on what to get pics of that might be a concern. Or should be clarified. (I have more pics than I posted just want to get more feedback from you guys.)
Thanks again!!
Get it. Interior pics would probably help though.
What kind of steering arm is used on the left knuckle.
Check for slop on the rear driveshaft at the pinion and parking brake and front output shaft.
What kind of steering arm is used on the left knuckle.
Check for slop on the rear driveshaft at the pinion and parking brake and front output shaft.
- Thread starter
- #46
Trollhole said:
Trollhole,
Slop in the DS or the pinion, output shaft and PB? The DS are not on as they are too short (Springs have been fliped to extend wheelbase.
- Steering arms are cut and welded but will ask for that anyways.
Here is the dash
doorpanel (Says has handles in the back.
Passanger seat and stock carb stuff. (what is with the attachment on top of the carb?
Rear view with all the stuff included
I would do it but that is me. It would probably take 3 grand to get it to where it would be a good reliable vehicle. 1k for "you may get there or you may not" beater. And a whole butload of time. Cut and welded steering arms need to be thrown in the "Just to get me home box" Rust is rust you can stop it with about a gallon of rustoleum sprayed on it and some sand paper and elbow grease. It will cost at least around 100 each to lenghten a DS and more if you want it balanced. Brakes have to be gone through.
I would say it is probably a good deal though. I bought my cruiser for 7k. Way to much for what it's worth. Knowing what I know now, then, I would have still bought it. Because the education I got fixing it was priceless and I have the satifaction of knowing if something breaks it is my fault.
I would say it is probably a good deal though. I bought my cruiser for 7k. Way to much for what it's worth. Knowing what I know now, then, I would have still bought it. Because the education I got fixing it was priceless and I have the satifaction of knowing if something breaks it is my fault.
- Thread starter
- #48
Well, the guy dropped his price to $1500 and posted it up on mud. (Which is what we had worked out) So I am not sure if I still have dibs or what he is supposed to get a few more pics for me.
I have done some figuring as well on costs:
1. To get my fj62 where I want it to be (staying with 33's and nothing real fancy) I am going to need to spend approx another $600
The $600 includes:
Shocks - $150
Front Axle rebuild - $250
Steering tre’s - $100
Tire mounting - $50
axle to caliper brake lines - $30
Extended End links F&R- $50
2. To go up to 35's and regear as well as the other stuff I want to do will cost approx an additional $3300-$3800
Sliders - $200
Front Bumper - $400
Rear Bumper w/ tire carrier and 1/4 protection - $400
Used Winch: - $500
35's - $200
BL (Maybe) - $200
4.88 gears (Thirds from DD) - $1000 ($1300)
Longfields $500
3. To stay with 33's and not regear would cost: #1 + the following.
Sliders - $200
Front Bumper - $400
Rear Bumper w/ tire carrier and 1/4 protection - $400
Used Winch: - $500
Total = $2100
Man that stuff adds up fast! Alot of this depends on what I can get deals on and what I cannot as well. And to be honest I dont know if there is any way I will ever spend the $4400 max total on my 62.
The point of all this. I am not real sure, I really wanted to put some figures down. To see what cost are going to be to finish the 62 and get it updated on maint. stuff.
Then compare it to this 40 and what its going to take to get it on the road. I think it would be cool to try and do a cheap truck build-up and try to keep it under $2500.
I have two thoughts/directions on this 40.
1. Take it back SUA and stock wheel base. (Spring flip, which isnt done correctly looking at the pics.)
- I think this will be the cheapest option.
- My question with doing this is, can I not find a better condition 40 that is running/drivable and still SUA for $1500?
- If I go this route it will ride on my 62's stock rims and some 31 BFG AT's I have around the house. And I may or may not keep the lockers.
-This would be more of a stock type rig but not afraid to use on trails.
- One other thing I dont know about this is that one reason for me getting a 40 is to save the 62 from getting trashed.(Although it has pleanty of rust itself.) Bringing it back to stock size wouldnt really acomplish this.
2. Leave it SOA and get help from you guys on the Cut&Turn.
- I think this will be more expensive, DS lengthing, redoing C&T, fixing spring flip, real highsteer, etc.
- This is going to be alot of farming out/getting help stuff as I do not have a welder or the skill yet.
- Can this be done for $3000 or less? And be reliable enough to drive to a trail 45 min away??
- I am not sure I need a 40 on 38's as my first 40.
Lets get some feedback here guys.
I have done some figuring as well on costs:
1. To get my fj62 where I want it to be (staying with 33's and nothing real fancy) I am going to need to spend approx another $600
The $600 includes:
Shocks - $150
Front Axle rebuild - $250
Steering tre’s - $100
Tire mounting - $50
axle to caliper brake lines - $30
Extended End links F&R- $50
2. To go up to 35's and regear as well as the other stuff I want to do will cost approx an additional $3300-$3800
Sliders - $200
Front Bumper - $400
Rear Bumper w/ tire carrier and 1/4 protection - $400
Used Winch: - $500
35's - $200
BL (Maybe) - $200
4.88 gears (Thirds from DD) - $1000 ($1300)
Longfields $500
3. To stay with 33's and not regear would cost: #1 + the following.
Sliders - $200
Front Bumper - $400
Rear Bumper w/ tire carrier and 1/4 protection - $400
Used Winch: - $500
Total = $2100
Man that stuff adds up fast! Alot of this depends on what I can get deals on and what I cannot as well. And to be honest I dont know if there is any way I will ever spend the $4400 max total on my 62.
The point of all this. I am not real sure, I really wanted to put some figures down. To see what cost are going to be to finish the 62 and get it updated on maint. stuff.
Then compare it to this 40 and what its going to take to get it on the road. I think it would be cool to try and do a cheap truck build-up and try to keep it under $2500.
I have two thoughts/directions on this 40.
1. Take it back SUA and stock wheel base. (Spring flip, which isnt done correctly looking at the pics.)
- I think this will be the cheapest option.
- My question with doing this is, can I not find a better condition 40 that is running/drivable and still SUA for $1500?
- If I go this route it will ride on my 62's stock rims and some 31 BFG AT's I have around the house. And I may or may not keep the lockers.
-This would be more of a stock type rig but not afraid to use on trails.
- One other thing I dont know about this is that one reason for me getting a 40 is to save the 62 from getting trashed.(Although it has pleanty of rust itself.) Bringing it back to stock size wouldnt really acomplish this.
2. Leave it SOA and get help from you guys on the Cut&Turn.
- I think this will be more expensive, DS lengthing, redoing C&T, fixing spring flip, real highsteer, etc.
- This is going to be alot of farming out/getting help stuff as I do not have a welder or the skill yet.
- Can this be done for $3000 or less? And be reliable enough to drive to a trail 45 min away??
- I am not sure I need a 40 on 38's as my first 40.
Lets get some feedback here guys.
If you decide against the 40, or if the wife decides against the 40 for you, I like option #2 for the 62... As far as the 40 goes, I think all the work it took just to get mine back on the road in a reliable manner took about 2500 to 3000. Then add to that correct all the PO mistakes, it's going to add up real real fast. But for 1500 I'm not sure I could turn down the 40. So.... I say go for it if you feel like that's the right thing to do. But if you have a lot of reservations and that gut feeling against it, build the 62.
My 40 was driven many years SOA without a cut and turn.
I've already give my opinion.
I've already give my opinion.
Hello
Oh I think you can't beat it for the price...
Yo te estoy vijilando (I am watching you)
Let me know soon please.
Thanks, Gary
Nice forum too.
Oh I think you can't beat it for the price...
Yo te estoy vijilando (I am watching you)
Let me know soon please.
Thanks, Gary
Nice forum too.
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My two cents on the 40 as a fellow wheeler.
I would spring it back under
slap your 31's under it
repair the rust, and slap some duraback on the floors
and wheel it.
Those lockers will get you so many places that a limited slip will not. This cruiser on 31's locked front and rear would work well on the trail, especially with that SM420. And, with the 4 speed cas instead of the 3, you'll be able to get more wheel spin in mud. This has good lockout hubs up front, so on the road you won't notice the locker. I ran the Powertrax No-slip in a ...shhhh... Jeep XJ daily driver for 4 years. Worked well off road, didn't notice it on the road much at all.
Everybody is going bigger, so keep your eye out for some lift springs etc. Right now the rage is 38's and 40's (remember when 33's were big?). Keep a look out for some decent 33's.
P.S. You have first dibs by the way.
This cruiser has new clutch, throw-out bearing, brand new lockers (they run about $400 a piece), and many gaskets etc. to finish the job.
I hope that you buy it. I would like to see it stay together.
I would spring it back under
slap your 31's under it
repair the rust, and slap some duraback on the floors
and wheel it.
Those lockers will get you so many places that a limited slip will not. This cruiser on 31's locked front and rear would work well on the trail, especially with that SM420. And, with the 4 speed cas instead of the 3, you'll be able to get more wheel spin in mud. This has good lockout hubs up front, so on the road you won't notice the locker. I ran the Powertrax No-slip in a ...shhhh... Jeep XJ daily driver for 4 years. Worked well off road, didn't notice it on the road much at all.
Everybody is going bigger, so keep your eye out for some lift springs etc. Right now the rage is 38's and 40's (remember when 33's were big?). Keep a look out for some decent 33's.
P.S. You have first dibs by the way.
This cruiser has new clutch, throw-out bearing, brand new lockers (they run about $400 a piece), and many gaskets etc. to finish the job.
I hope that you buy it. I would like to see it stay together.
- Thread starter
- #53
Thanks, MJ for everything you have done to help!
Well everyone, I passed on it. After looking over even more pictures, it really had more rust than I wanted to deal with. I would have wanted to get another tub honestly although it could be done up with a ton of welding and other work.
I am going to spend some $ on the 62 and get it right. Thanks for everyones advice!!!
Well everyone, I passed on it. After looking over even more pictures, it really had more rust than I wanted to deal with. I would have wanted to get another tub honestly although it could be done up with a ton of welding and other work.
I am going to spend some $ on the 62 and get it right. Thanks for everyones advice!!!
There are LOTS of 40's for sale if that's what you want.
Just keep looking and be patient, you'll find the one you're looking for!!
Good Luck!
Just keep looking and be patient, you'll find the one you're looking for!!
Good Luck!
- Thread starter
- #55
I am going to keep my eyes peeled, but I am still debating the whole mod 62 and finish it vs get a 40 and work on it slowly while I do very little to the 62.
