What did you do with your Tundra or Sequoia this weekend? (5 Viewers)

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Added a rear carrier that I've been working on for a few weeks. Not yet done, but just about there.
- Fits Yeti 35
- Pelican 1500 (on that bottom tray).


Also roof mounted 2x Ridgid Boxes via U BOLTS & some bar.
 
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Couple weekends ago but fixed the 4wd. Wouldn’t engage into 4hi/4lo or diff lock. Found a YouTube video about the electronic actuator and replaced the top actuator, boom fixed!
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Started pulling all seats and carpet to dynamat the floor in hopes of reducing some of the drone from the TRD PRO exhaust. It was actually very straight forward. Hopefully it’s not for nothing.
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Let us know if the carpet was as straightforward to remove. I recently did all 4 doors with second skin(off brand dynamat-made in USA I do recommend and have used before) then got hit by a deer and am going to lose one of the doors now. Body shop is going to let me come in and do the new door when I drop it off to get fixed.
 
Let us know if the carpet was as straightforward to remove. I recently did all 4 doors with second skin(off brand dynamat-made in USA I do recommend and have used before) then got hit by a deer and am going to lose one of the doors now. Body shop is going to let me come in and do the new door when I drop it off to get fixed.
Just finished up this evening. Leaving the center console in allowed enough room to pull the carpet up in the driver and passenger footwells which were the only semi-hard to access spots. Second row back was easy and the carpet just folded front to back exposing the whole rear of the cabin. I went the extra mile and even removed the platform behind/underneath the third row that holds the spare tire kit/jack just so that I could get the dynamat under there as well. I still have enough leftover to do the trunk lid which is definitely on the to-do list in the very near future, and maybe even the doors, most likely a later time. We’ll just have to see how tomorrow’s drive goes first...
 
Reporting back on the sequoia dynamat install. Did the rear hatch as well the following evening. It seems to be marginally quieter in around town driving but it didn’t seem to knock out much of that 1600-1900 rpm droning when cruising on the highway. The only spot uncovered in the car is behind the dash but I don’t think I’m up for pulling that in a brand new truck. Guess I’m living with it for now unless a new exhaust is in my future.
 
Front skid plate saw one too many impact guns before I acquired the Tundra. Four of the five bolts were stripped out of the captured nut. M8x1.25 modified to M10x1.25. Drilled out the captive nut and tapped each one. No issues other than the center bolt hole on the skid plate was too small for the new bolt (only one I didn’t check for fit). Much easier knowing the skid plate isn’t going to fall off if I hit a bump.
 
Took the tree out to get some other trees (piñon firewood) in the National Forest. This thing does work and doesn’t complain.
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Installed 285/60-20 Falken Wildpeak tires. Great choice for traction and smooth ride! For better than the Toyo AT II’s on the rig when it came home.
 
Reporting back on the sequoia dynamat install. Did the rear hatch as well the following evening. It seems to be marginally quieter in around town driving but it didn’t seem to knock out much of that 1600-1900 rpm droning when cruising on the highway. The only spot uncovered in the car is behind the dash but I don’t think I’m up for pulling that in a brand new truck. Guess I’m living with it for now unless a new exhaust is in my future.
I have dirty deeds exhaust on my Sequoia and I have the same drone around the 1800-2000 rpm range. Typically it goes away when I shift up a gear but I've learned to live with it. Glad to know the sound proofing didn't help much so I don't go down that rabbit hole.
 
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thia is what I’ve been doing with the tundra lately. Chains on to get up the mile long driveway. Chains off to get to work.
 
Made a custom 6061 plate for the 1st gen center console! Just need to get the hardware for it and I'm good to go.

Using silicone cable ties to attach things. Might go with velcro ties tho.

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Nice. Looking to do the same upgrade. How is the light output at night?
It’s certainly an improvement, but the originals were due for a good polishing so it’s hard to say how the would compare to new/clear OEM.
Still playing with adjustment a bit.

The low beams have a bit of the LED rainbow around the edges. Much better shoulder illumination/width of beam.

High beams have a bit more of a directed pattern than OEM. A bit of a spotlight feel, but not annoyingly so.

And then as far as aesthetics, the front end looks a heck of a lot more modern coming down the road with the LED halo and clear lenses.

I had to order some Spyder fog lights to match. :)
 
It’s certainly an improvement, but the originals were due for a good polishing so it’s hard to say how the would compare to new/clear OEM.
Still playing with adjustment a bit.

The low beams have a bit of the LED rainbow around the edges. Much better shoulder illumination/width of beam.

High beams have a bit more of a directed pattern than OEM. A bit of a spotlight feel, but not annoyingly so.

And then as far as aesthetics, the front end looks a heck of a lot more modern coming down the road with the LED halo and clear lenses.

I had to order some Spyder fog lights to match. :)

Nice. I was looking at the Alpha LED model but the price is steep, rather spend that coin on new tires. For the fogs I'm going with the Diode Dynamics ss3 pro.
 
Nice. I was looking at the Alpha LED model but the price is steep, rather spend that coin on new tires. For the fogs I'm going with the Diode Dynamics ss3 pro.
Mine are the less expensive projector style, with just the LED outer ring $385. I couldn’t spring for the full LED either, haha.
 
Replaced all four rotors and all pads today with genuine OEM Mr. T parts. Had I known they were all so bad, I would have done this 10000 miles ago. But it’s done at 128k:

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old on the left, about 1mm pad left 😬. New pads installed and circled in red.

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