Builds What did you do with your cruiser today?

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I finally found the reason for the overpowering buzz on the stereo whenever I key up the 2m. The Kenwood stereo's FM antenna connector shield had no tie to stereo chassis. I roughed up the chassis, soldered on some copper braid, and tucked into the connector. Now I can have music and communication again!
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Also just figured out I've been driving around with the "service mode" jumper in place for like a month. And I can't say I noticed a difference. I'll have to go for a drive tonight after putting the dash back together.
 
Well, after dealing with Gturbo over my blown turbo, I’m never dealing with them again.

After documenting (pictures and videos) absolutely everything going on, they told me to ship it back to them. The owner was certain that the turbo had failed. They were originally going to cover the shipping ($225 each way), they backed out and I had to cover the shipping. He (Graeme) told me that he would be shipping out a replacement turbo the moment that I sent mine back. That never happened. He waited for my turbo to show up there (Australia for those who don’t know). They then tore down my turbo and tried to claim there was nothing wrong. Everything was “in spec” and no “signs of failure”. He told me that he would have his team clean it and reassemble/balance it, then ship it back.

He then decided that I had to pay them $535aud to get it back. They wanted to be paid for the cleaning and reassembly. After fighting with them for 5 days (I never authorized any charges), he decided not to charge me. He said that they would send me an invoice for the return shipping ASAP and get it out. Well their ASAP was 5 days. I paid the invoice the second it came over email. It then took them another week to finally ship it out.
Now fast forward to yesterday evening, the turbo was back. I opened the box and immediately noticed that something was different. They had replaced the turbine, shaft, and after looking in the oil ports, the oil seals.

He had told me several times that there was nothing wrong with my turbo, but why were all these parts replaced? He in fact told me that I had to of cracked a ringland or popped a piston.

Like I said earlier, I documented everything. I had pictures, and videos, of compression tests and a leak down test from April. I then did the tests again after the turbo issues showed up. My compression actually increased a little bit (10-20psi a cylinder),and my leak down was the same except for #6, which actually improved (86 to 91). My leak down was done at 100psi. My #6 exhaust valve might have an issue. I can hear a little bit of a whistle out the exhaust.

My mpg to Bryce Canyon was 18.9mpg average. I got 19.1mpg on the way back even puking oil. Power was consistent both ways. I’m finding it hard to believe that I hurt the engine in any way. Only thing that I noticed a change in was my oil temp was about 10* hotter on the return trip.

I’ve been working a ton since returning, and haven’t got anything done on the cruiser. I still need to finish installing my trans temp gauge, find out why the RR window stopped working (already checked and cleaned the master switch), and install the new OEM “warmer climate” 170* thermostat. Hopefully working on everything this weekend.

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I'm no turbo guru, but the exhaust turbine and the intake compressor wheels should never have oil on them. Sucks. Sorry about your troubles.
 
Hey kids, when you see a trail overgrown for 3 miles with thistles, go slow or turn around. Or at least check if they have gone to seed. We took 2 hours and various air compressor fittings and other misused tools to blow out the condenser and trans cooler. I'm going to build or buy something to use my tires as air tanks with the compressor running - too lazy for OBA. New condenser is ready to install, it was getting there anyways. It still ran hot even after we blew most of the seeds out. Radiator looked clean from what I could tell.
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Also, somewhere in there I hit something hard with the front right wheel. Steering wound up way off. I realigned it in a casino parking lot in WInnemucca. Funny thing, I have straight edged both steering links, no bend found, but then I found at least one finger tight knuckle arm bolt. Hmm. Recently tightened too. I've ordered a set of the newer ones that are easier to retighten the stud.
 
I don’t know which would be easier to move for a look in between, the condenser or the radiator. I’ll bet there is a ton of debris trapped in between the two. Might get away with more cleaning.
 
fjc-man said:
I don’t know which would be easier to move for a look in between, the condenser or the radiator. I’ll bet there is a ton of debris trapped in between the two. Might get away with more cleaning.
Click to expand...
We fought with getting an air hose between without taking apart the brace, wasting a bunch of time, where it only takes 5-10 minutes to pull the brace. In between wasn't bad, mostly it was seeds stuck in the condenser, but the fins were already somewhat bent up from 250k miles of bugs.
 
I've been studying the steering gear rebuild all morning.
My steering is very sloppy, has been since I got the truck, even with all new TREs etc.
Did I ever pull the box and re-set the preload? No.
Should I? Probably.

Maybe this is just helping get my thoughts together.

The last few years abusing the steering, including some wheel impacts that bent stuff, has me thinking I'd like to do the 105 sector shaft upgrade.

I got that steering gear with busted sector shaft for free.
State of the internals unknown but everything does rotate.

Not purchasing a re-manufactured box.
Not going off-shore for expensive parts.

Result of compiling part lists:

Option 1 New steering box and pitman arm, $3400

Option 2 DIY maximum rebuild, replace all the big moving parts including new valve assembly, needle bearings, 105 shaft and arm, $1600.

Option 3 DIY minimum rebuild, including 105 shaft and pitman arm, $900.

Option 4 Redhead rebuild, without porting, $1100. Ports are another $110.
Should provide comparable performance to option 2.
Need to compare Blue-Top.

ToyotaPartsDeal had the best on-shore pricing, but I need to confirm parts availability.


I think I'll get the shaft and arm on order now, and open up that free steering box soon.
 
DesertLake said:
Option 4 Redhead rebuild, without porting, $1100. Ports are another $110.
Should provide comparable performance to option 2.
Need to compare Blue-Top.

I think I'll get the shaft and arm on order now, and open up that free steering box soon.
Click to expand...

I have run redhead boxes in two Broncos and my fullsize Jeep back in the day. Never had a problem with them. It might be worth calling AGR Steering though. The owner is a Land Cruiser guy and is very helpful. I plan on using one of his boxes on the 40 that is tapped for hydro "just in case" I decider to go big someday. A complete kit from him for my Saginaw converted 40 with hyrdo was 1500, just box is around 500. Idk what prices would be for an 80 box, sounds like the internals are made of gold based on the prices you shared.

But free is good!
 
Tony_Farson said:
I have run redhead boxes in two Broncos and my fullsize Jeep back in the day. Never had a problem with them. It might be worth calling AGR Steering though. The owner is a Land Cruiser guy and is very helpful. I plan on using one of his boxes on the 40 that is tapped for hydro "just in case" I decider to go big someday. A complete kit from him for my Saginaw converted 40 with hyrdo was 1500, just box is around 500. Idk what prices would be for an 80 box, sounds like the internals are made of gold based on the prices you shared.

But free is good!
Click to expand...
I will give them a look!

Yeah close to $600 is baked into each option for the sector shaft and arm.
 
Tony_Farson said:
I have run redhead boxes in two Broncos and my fullsize Jeep back in the day. Never had a problem with them. It might be worth calling AGR Steering though. The owner is a Land Cruiser guy and is very helpful. I plan on using one of his boxes on the 40 that is tapped for hydro "just in case" I decider to go big someday. A complete kit from him for my Saginaw converted 40 with hyrdo was 1500, just box is around 500. Idk what prices would be for an 80 box, sounds like the internals are made of gold based on the prices you shared.

But free is good!
Click to expand...
You might look into Performance Steering Components for the Sag box, I've been very happy with mine.

Power Steering - Hydraulic - Off Road, Hot Rod, Circle Track, On Road, Tow Rig

Modify your Jeep, truck, muscle car or off-road vehicle with cylinders, tie-rods and other high quality steering components from PSC Motorsports.
www.pscmotorsports.com www.pscmotorsports.com
 
Looks like that hit to the wheel did more damage than I thought.

Now trying to extract the stub without tearing down the knuckle.View attachment 2753732

DesertLake said:
And the stub is stuck. I have to put it back together and work my day job, hopefully my mechanic can get to it.
Click to expand...
But then I spotted one of the pens that my wife never finished, and I think I have a drill guide...
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Looks like that hit to the wheel did more damage than I thought.

Now trying to extract the stub without tearing down the knuckle.View attachment 2753732

DesertLake said:
And the stub is stuck. I have to put it back together and work my day job, hopefully my mechanic can get to it.
Click to expand...
But then I spotted one of the pens that my wife never finished, and I think I have a drill guide...View attachment 2753780
DesertLake said:
Looks like that hit to the wheel did more damage than I thought.

Now trying to extract the stub without tearing down the knuckle.View attachment 2753732


But then I spotted one of the pens that my wife never finished, and I think I have a drill guide...View attachment 2753780
Click to expand...
And a drill press?

IMG_20210808_152358671.jpg
 
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