Is the shift seat bushing good?
What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
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Is the shift seat bushing good?
fjc-man
SILVER Star
OEM 90480-18180
JayDoc
boop/bop/beep
It looked to be in good shape.
I began the battle. It was swift and decisive with zero casualties on my side. Government regulations haven’t faired well this weekend. The damage is devastating. We will be victorious through and through...
Reinforcements and supplies have arrived....
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Do tell, with sniper EFI and a cat you should still be able to pass emissions?
Do you have a build thread?
Might as well pull that carb fan too.
Yes, you should be able to, but the sniper is not up to code regulations and will not pass the visual test. If they don’t look under your hood, or care for that matter, then it should defiantly pass. A computer is controlling everything so in theory it should run cleaner than a carb.
I started a build thread years ago but found that when I’m wrenching I just can’t be bothered to take enough time to get pictures so I stopped updating it. I’ll get around to it eventually with the few pics I do have. I have done extensive work since then so there’s a lot to catch up on. I usually do all this on a time crunch. This time I had the wherewithal to take a week of PTO at work and give myself ample time to ignore rules #1, #2, and #3....
Where's that header from? Having trouble deciphering the logo.
I bought it from JTOutfitters. That logo says “TRI-MIL”. Honestly, I’m not super impressed, but wasn’t expecting much at $299... I think they’ll do the job until I’m ready to pull and rebuild the entire engine. At that point I’ll go with man-a-fre stainless two piece headers. I ordered a fluid heat riser from JTOutfitters on the 3rd and paid for three day shipping. It’s still not arrived... I ordered it two days after I ordered the headers... we will see...
You shouldn't need it with EFI, but it couldn't hurt.
Here’s the mating surface of the headers. Lackluster imo...
I am planning a move to Montana soon, so I thought it would be nice to have the hot spot just under the sniper to aid in proper atomization when it’s cold. I figured, what the hay, while I’m in there... it’s only $70...
Those port flanges look like they could benefit from some time with a die grinder inside and some DIY flattening to ensure they’re all planar. Still for 300 bucks that might be worth it. Are you putting the Sniper bung in the collector or downstream of the header flange?
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
How'd you yellow zinc those metal parts? Did you manage to take them off the plastic assembly, or did you just dip everything? I need to refurbish mine and I'd like to follow your process.
I’ve been debating whether I should have a machine shop clean up the surface or just run with it... I plan to have the bung installed after the collector. Holley suggests 8-10 inches after the collector. But that seems like it will be pretty far towards the cat... so I’m not 100% certain. I think I’ll dig up my build thread and post some ideas there where it can be discussed more directly.
If you change to the MAF header, 8-10 " will be close to the cat. You want a good average of the 6 cylinders. It also puts it in an easier place to change it when the time comes.
That’s an excellent shot. Gives me some good ideas!
Looks great!
Definitely have the O2 bung welded in before you mount the header so you can get in as close to 12 o'clock as possible.
Wouldn't hurt to put a straight edge over those header flanges, either, to check for flatness and perhaps clean up the inside welds a bit.
Also, I see on the cylinder head there's some high-temp permatex. That stuff really doesn't work there.
Much Better is this stuff, on both sides of gasket and on metal mounting surfaces. Cures rock hard. Local Cruiser Gurus use it all the time when installing headers on 2F.
Definitely have the O2 bung welded in before you mount the header so you can get in as close to 12 o'clock as possible.
Wouldn't hurt to put a straight edge over those header flanges, either, to check for flatness and perhaps clean up the inside welds a bit.
Also, I see on the cylinder head there's some high-temp permatex. That stuff really doesn't work there.
Much Better is this stuff, on both sides of gasket and on metal mounting surfaces. Cures rock hard. Local Cruiser Gurus use it all the time when installing headers on 2F.
