What did you do with your 60 this weekend?

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Also, I've been getting this odd squeak after getting to temp, only in drive, or when I shut off it sounds like something coming to a stop. Is the t-case oil supposed to be this color or do I have a tranny/t-case leak..?
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Spock Dingledong said:
Also, I've been getting this odd squeak after getting to temp, only in drive, or when I shut off it sounds like something coming to a stop. Is the t-case oil supposed to be this color or do I have a tranny/t-case leak..?View attachment 2777915
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FJ62? Looks like auto tranny fluid mixing with gear oil. Better hope the gear oil hasn't contaminated the transmission fluid.
 
Godwin said:
FJ62? Looks like auto tranny fluid mixing with gear oil. Better hope the gear oil hasn't contaminated the transmission fluid.
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Yeppers. The ATF looks clean on the stick at least. Should I just refill the tc with gear oil and see what happens (check it frequently)? Does the leak usually go both ways? Honestly it almost looks like it was just filled with straight up ATF. Should I fill it with ATF to prevent mixture into Tranny? I don't even really know if the seals are bad. Looks like some people recommend using D6 ATF for both.
 
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Spock Dingledong said:
Yeppers. The ATF looks clean on the stick at least. Should I just refill the tc with gear oil and see what happens (check it frequently)? Does the leak usually go both ways? Honestly it almost looks like it was just filled with straight up ATF. Should I fill it with ATF to prevent mixture into Tranny? I don't even really know if the seals are bad. Looks like some people recommend using D6 ATF for both.
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If ATF and gear oil are mixing you need to drop the t-case replace the input seal on the t-case, at that point go ahead and rebuild it since you have to split the case to replace the seal.
 
Spock Dingledong said:
Yeppers. The ATF looks clean on the stick at least. Should I just refill the tc with gear oil and see what happens (check it frequently)? Does the leak usually go both ways? Honestly it almost looks like it was just filled with straight up ATF.
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Godwin said:
If ATF and gear oil are mixing you need to drop the t-case replace the input seal on the t-case, at that point go ahead and rebuild it since you have to split the case to replace the seal.
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I guess to officially diagnose I should fill with correct gear oil and see if I get mixture.
 
Spock Dingledong said:
I guess to officially diagnose I should fill with correct gear oil and see if I get mixture.
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Was the t-case overfilled? If not then you may not have a bad seal. What about the ATF level? If good also I'd just refill the t-case with gear oil and drive it.
 
Godwin said:
Was the t-case overfilled? If not then you may not have a bad seal. What about the ATF level? If good also I'd just refill the t-case with gear oil and drive it.
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ATF level is good, So was the Tcase(almost exactly 2qt). Ill try that, and check the ATF fluid/tcase for mixture every trip, look for overheating/stinky transmission.
 
Changed out the gear oil with something more... clear. Still getting an odd squeak from the tcase 90 percent of the time its in drive or reverse (after it's at op temps), last couple seconds you can really hear it after I shut down:
 
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Made some custom HI-lift mounts for my ARB roof rack the other day. Cost me about $5 from Home depot hardware. Spray painted them a dark shade of army green, and coated the plastic twist on threaded knobs with UV resistant spray so they don't crack in the sun. Pretty solid, was able to hold onto the hi lift jack and dangle myself so I don't think it'll be coming off. The knobs pull the jack down onto the rack tower and snug it up so that it won't move around or rattle while driving.
 


Also a little clip from windrock, TN, I drove the 60 and my friend took his LS swapped 80, and my other friend brought his stock 80 series. Trails out there were super difficult, had to get unstuck many times. Also managed to damage something in my driveline, had to do a pretty harsh hill start on some steep rocks in 4LO, basically launched the car while aired down to 15psi so that I wouldn't roll back on a steep hillclimb and slip down a rock. That's why it was making that noise in the video, seems to only happen under load and while wheels are spinning at different speeds. I think its something in the rear diff, prolly a minor crack in one of the spider gears or the ring gear. Definitely doesn't sound happy. U joints on the rear driveshaft were also super loose, almost half a CM of play in each direction, so I'm replacing those when they get here tomorrow. Praying that replacing the U joints will fix the noise and I won't have to pull the diff, but I think its unlikely they were the cause.
 
dhuffste said:
View attachment 2778258


Made some custom HI-lift mounts for my ARB roof rack the other day. Cost me about $5 from Home depot hardware. Spray painted them a dark shade of army green, and coated the plastic twist on threaded knobs with UV resistant spray so they don't crack in the sun. Pretty solid, was able to hold onto the hi lift jack and dangle myself so I don't think it'll be coming off. The knobs pull the jack down onto the rack tower and snug it up so that it won't move around or rattle while driving.
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Nice! Which ARB rack do you have? How tall is it from the bottom of the gutter? If you don’t mind measuring for me? I’m rack shopping and am limited on height by my garage.
 
TRAIL TAILOR said:
60 converted rides better than a 80 does. Weight, width and height... My wife says... "So if it has an 80 suspension and axles... Why doesn't mine ride like this... " She has an all original stock 97 fzj80. Several 80 guys have said similar as well after taking them for a ride in a few we've done.

You still have to cut all body mounts, tank work, cut frame and shorten, etc... From my shop it's a cheaper and a better end solution.
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Do you mind going into more detail about this? I was entertaining an 80 frame swap down the line but I ran into your page and saw the conversion kit. I'd love to learn more about it.
 
Got half done with the front spring swap. The old bushings fought me hard… had to get out the big pliers to help remove the spring pins. Happy to be replacing these with poly. Fortunately the shackles and pins are in pretty good shape and cleaned up nicely with a wire brush, rust converter, and some grease.

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Noticed some leakage from the oil cooler block area… any ideas?

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cheeese said:
Got half done with the front spring swap. The old bushings fought me hard… had to get out the big pliers to help remove the spring pins. Happy to be replacing these with poly. Fortunately the shackles and pins are in pretty good shape and cleaned up nicely with a wire brush, rust converter, and some grease.

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Noticed some leakage from the oil cooler block area… any ideas?

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You’re lucky all it took was some big pliers....


As for the oil cooler leaking, there are two rubber rings and some copper crush washers that go between the cast iron block and the body of the cooler where the two huge bolts go through. That’s where it’s leaking. You can source the rubber rings from O’Reilly. When I did mine I mistakenly ordered one not realizing I needed two. I brought the new ring in and they found one that matched almost perfectly. Alternatively, I think both the rubber and copper are still available through Toyota.
 
Monsterlined it over the weekend, put it back together today:
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