What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (23 Viewers)

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Not today per se, but I take delivery of my newly purchased 2003 tomorrow :)

Couple questions, I can always start a new thread if that makes more sense. First is on the dash. The example I'm buying was maintained at the dealer its whole life, and it received a fresh dash under warranty in 2017. It still looks great with no cracking. I've read some mixed opinions on this- were the warranty replacement dashes any different than the originals? I'm prepared to do my best protecting it with 303 or similar, but I'd love to know if there were any fundamental changes to the dash that might help it hold up over time.

Second, I'd love to be schooled a bit on the AHC and adjustable damping on the shocks. As I understand it, these are entirely separate, correct? Down the line, I'd be interested in a very mild lift and some slightly bigger tires (had 1"ish lift and 265s on my v8 4Runner). I also tow, so I'm attracted to some of the benefits of the AHC. I would assume that one could lift a bit while maintaining the AHC (taller bags?), but there is no way to lift and retain the electronic shock damping. Seems likely that the OEM shocks would not take well to any extension, and the valving isn't going to cycle properly. Open to being corrected on these and I'm excited to join the GX club!

I am lifted 1.25" in the front and 1" in the rear on standard bags and lexus adjustable shocks. I tow as well and really appreciate keep the airbags. I run a .75" spacer on the front strut (and correctly space the front bumpstop), and then just use washers on the height sensors in the rear to make it run higher.

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What @Krazykevin said. I have a mild lift with after market dampers with the factory air springs. I scoop up air spring components when others remove for rear coil spring conversions. Self leveling is a major feature to keep IMHO. Even if you do not tow. 1-2 passengers wlll activate leveling.

The sloped driveway is tucking that rear wheel more, but she was squatting before cranking up the engine. Trailer was full of dirt in both photos.

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Super helpful @Timujin and @Krazykevin . You haven't found any reduced performance with the stock shocks? Both of yours look great so I'd be thrilled if its reasonable to lift a bit and keep all the stock features.
@mcaninch35

Same! You can retain AHC air springs and stock AVS shocks with mild lift.

I ran a 0.75" strut top spacer providing 1.5" lift in front and washer spacers to rear airbag sensor providing 0.5" rear lift for 7.5 years. Daily was fine, auto levelling worked perfectly, with hi and low height adjustments retained (for trailer loading and slow speed crawling respectively).

Here's a gif showing ride low, normal and hi ride heights

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I then fit 265x70 17s with a little front rubbing fixed by massaging the fender liner.

Quick side-by-side stock rig on stock all seasons left, mine on front spacer and AT BFG KO2s right
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Retaining auto levelling is awesome.
Here is loaded for a 2 week road trip; bikes and racks add like 250ish # hanging off the bumper, let along the camping gear on roof, kitchen, cooler and gear in the back, plus 2 pre-teens.
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Its been very functional for daily, long-haul road trips, multi-day camping trips and off road adventures. It even wheels mild-light hard trails and even amazingly while loaded around where I live...

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Installed TRQ HLA90500 headlight housings with the Sealight LEDs swapped from the factory housings. Did a restore on the factory housings which looked good for a few months. Overall they looked better than pre-restoration, but they were cooked. TRQs are great after getting them aimed last night.

Added LED bulbs to the foglamp housings purchased from @zzyzx85

Mounted the hard AC line that was unsupported post Hayden ATF cooler installation. Modified the original bracket, mounted, and bent it into place.

Took the bulge out of the underside of front bumper on the driver side from the PO’s collision.

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I am fairly confident my gx has more rust on one bolt than you have on your entire vehicle.
gotta love California :D

Installed TRQ HLA90500 headlight housings with the Sealight LEDs swapped from the factory housings. Did a restore on the factory housings which looked good for a few months. Overall they looked better than pre-restoration, but they were cooked. TRQs are great after getting them aimed last night.

Added LED bulbs to the foglamp housings purchased from @zzyzx85
.

Mounted the hard AC line that was unsupported post Hayden ATF cooler installation. Modified the original bracket, mounted, and bent it into place.

Took the bulge out of the underside of front bumper on the driver side from the PO’s collision.

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Glad to see my old housings being put to good use.

I thought about adding a trans cooler the next time I do a fluid change. I recall the transmission felt a bit sluggish after going up and down a grade in 100 deg temps.
 
gotta love California :D


Glad to see my old housings being put to good use.

I thought about adding a trans cooler the next time I do a fluid change. I recall the transmission felt a bit sluggish after going up and down a grade in 100 deg temps.
It’s cheap insurance. The Goliath mount is the WTG. I ordered the Iconicfab mount which looked like it went from the mill into a shaving bath like a churro then into a shipping box. I gave it to a buddy with a FJ. He doesn’t wrench on it much so the shop that installs it will clean and smooth out the edges.

Next is to repurpose the factory ATF cooler for power steering fluid.
 
Had a slightly busy day yesterday.
Popped off the rear bumper cover to install a new low profile hitch receiver and the associated bumper filler that I painted the day before. I chopped off the rear resonator just above where it starts to curve aft.
Before:
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After:
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While the bumper cover was off, I took advantage and extended the rear diff breather to the space behind the fuel fill.
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Lastly, I extended the HVAC drain down past the frame rail. No pictures of that. Plenty of those all over the internet.
 
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Finally installed my Dobinsons IMS a few weeks back.

C59-302 springs on the front (2” stock weight)
C59-505 springs in the rear (1.5-1.75”) with Firestone helper bags. the rear seemed to sit higher than 2”. Didn’t grab measurements from the axle to fender prior to install.

Also cleared the sunroof drain, fixed the sunroof rattle.
 
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Finally installed my Dobinsons IMS a few weeks back.

C59-302 springs on the front (2” stock weight)
C59-505 springs in the rear (1.5-1.75”) with Firestone helper bags. the rear seemed to sit higher than 2”. Didn’t grab measurements from the axle to fender prior to install.

Also cleared the sunroof drain, fixed the sunroof rattle.
those are by far my favorite stock toyota wheels
 
Got the p0456 code and the dash lights. Only the 'very small leak' this time. My gas cap is only a couple months old but my filler neck is original to the car. Hit it with a magic eraser and some glass cleaner to try to knock down any burs or scrapes. Fingers crossed it does the trick but i got a bad feeling im going to be chasing this one.
 
Slightly off topic but I still think it might be helpful....

My Alpicool CF55 fridge decided to throw a fit - it wouldn't read a temperature from built-in sensor. Just shows 72F no matter what.
I took a cover off control board and found 3 connectors going to the board - harness to the compressor/power supply, 2-pin to inside light, 2-pin to thermistor. Voltmeter showed open circuit on thermistor so no luck there - dead. I tried calling Alpicool customer support number from their website but it was announcing as disconnected! That's a great customer service :/
Google search didn't come up with any specs so I took a chance and ordered 5KOhm thermistor on Amazon. ($7, 20" length was about right size). Plugged that in and my board display shows 40F while the house is around 73-74F. Ended up adding two 47KOhm resistors in parallel to get it read 72F - close enough. Since the OEM sensor is hidden somewhere in a foam case the only way to get new one installed is to drill a small hole to the fridge basket and tape it with a duct tape to the wall. This method should work for any DC fridge. I also plan on adding a separate Bluetooth thermometer to make sure I have a secondary temp reading (if the fridge looses power by accident or anything else) since I don't trust the fridge control board alone.
 
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Finally installed my Dobinsons IMS a few weeks back.

C59-302 springs on the front (2” stock weight)
C59-505 springs in the rear (1.5-1.75”) with Firestone helper bags. the rear seemed to sit higher than 2”. Didn’t grab measurements from the axle to fender prior to install.

Also cleared the sunroof drain, fixed the sunroof rattle.

Wow, this looks great. I just picked up an Ash Blue Mica 03 a few weeks ago, after driving a 4th gen 4Runner with this exact setup for the last few years- IMS, 302/505 springs, and the same wheels. Happy to see it looks this good on the GX too as I loved the suspension and wheels on the Runner.
 
Not today but this past Saturday I took the rig out on her maiden voyage to the mountains. Took rather easy trails as it was also the wife's first outing and didn't want her to get beat up to bad. If you're familiar with the area, our path was up Reddish Knob and then down Flagpole Knob.

Did get some minor damage to the rear bumper cover but that happened Saturday morning in the parking lot of the diner we were having breakfast at. I lost a bit of paint on that corner but the vehicle that hit me turned their rear passenger door into bacon.
 
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Finally installed my Dobinsons IMS a few weeks back.

C59-302 springs on the front (2” stock weight)
C59-505 springs in the rear (1.5-1.75”) with Firestone helper bags. the rear seemed to sit higher than 2”. Didn’t grab measurements from the axle to fender prior to install.

Also cleared the sunroof drain, fixed the sunroof rattle.
Those wheels look great on your GX.
Wondering how you fixed the sunroof rattle? I've definitely got that too.
 
Those wheels look great on your GX.
Wondering how you fixed the sunroof rattle? I've definitely got that too.
Well, I should start by saying I don’t use my sunroof at all, it doesn’t actually open since I bought it, So I took the redneck approach. I pushed the glass to max height using the 4 torx screws (probably not required) and then wedged some thick rubber grommets from my old suspension in the tracks to keep pressure on the mechanism in the back corners. It’s a cheap fix for sure but I don’t hear a rattle and you can’t see anything because the grommets tuck in and I don’t open the shade ever.

I’m sure there’s a more Lexus approved method…seems to be a common issue.
 
Got the p0456 code and the dash lights. Only the 'very small leak' this time. My gas cap is only a couple months old but my filler neck is original to the car. Hit it with a magic eraser and some glass cleaner to try to knock down any burs or scrapes. Fingers crossed it does the trick but i got a bad feeling im going to be chasing this one.
Light went out today woo hoo! Wondering if maybe a little gas got in the charcoal on my last fillup and it finally evaporated out.

Also i towed the racecar last month on the new shocks and air springs, WOW. The auto leveling is sooooo nice for towing. Very very impressed with this car.
 
I’ve been slowly knocking out little things. I replaced the rear bags with some 3in springs. Super easy. Replaced the height and ride switch with an aftermarket plate that dropped right in. It’s machined aluminum. Added two switches there. Had an alignment done at a local shop. Just keep running gravel roads real fast on the way to fishin creeks!


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Found out I’ve got a leak from the front passenger door seal.

Definitely not from clogged sunroof drains. Those were cleared the other weekend during a detail. Pouring water on the roof, the inside of the car is dry, and you can watch the water pour out the drains under the car.

I think it’s from the two screws that hold the lenzdesign snorkel onto the doorframe.

When it rains heavily, the passenger floor mat has some water buildup, and you can see water running down the door card.

Anyone else have this issue?

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