Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
sniff sniff .. how was that old thread about the Cheerleaders and the secretary development .?
What did you do on your 70 series today? (35 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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sniff sniff .. how was that old thread about the Cheerleaders and the secretary development .?
This is incorrect. The speedo on my HZJ77 is in fact backlit. Ask me how I know (now).
Here is me actually testing out the third example I made with the "t-belt" added (The first two I didn't like so I tossed them.) It is a learning curve making these.
As you can see my cluster was set up for backlit gauges. In fact none of the faces are metal and is transparent plastic type. Perhaps a change made in 1993 or shortly before. It looks more dim in real life than in the photo.
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Those pics on the beach are outstanding. Your LC doesn't look bad either.
There was another mudder (@Bob Otte) that had made vinyl overlays in MPH only. I was trying to get one from him but he's been offline for awhile.
Some one else on here had recommended one from Lockwood International. Looks like it would work, but at a £ 110 it is a little pricey.:
Land Cruiser. KMH to MPH Conversion Dial for imported vehicle. Part No. C836 – Lockwood International
lockwoodinternational.co.uk
@FJ73Texas if you are happy with your results and make a few PM me, I would be interested one.
They are showing as 46.97 right now.
If you want an magnetic overlay. Please DM me. I will honor these three requests and then I am done with this project. I won't be making any more (sorry). Please tell me if you need the "t-belt" text on it and the holes for the t-belt reset button/light or not. Only cost is the ride of the overlay to your address.
@svsisu I don't know how to post pictures in the DM so here are the install instructions for the overlay.
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This is incorrect. The speedo on my HZJ77 is in fact backlit. Ask me how I know (now).
Here is me actually testing out the third example I made with the "t-belt" added (The first two I didn't like so I tossed them.) It is a learning curve making these.
As you can see my cluster was set up for backlit gauges. In fact none of the faces are metal and is transparent plastic type. Perhaps a change made in 1993 or shortly before. It looks more dim in real life than in the photo.
View attachment 2458409
I stand corrected - maybe they were changed along with the curvy dash on some 1993+ 70's - or is yours old school rectangular style too?
Mine is old school dash and everything but when it comes down to the speedometer fascia and other fascias on my 77, they are somewhat translucent style plastic. Like the A/C fascia.
Replaced rear door hinges and stopper. Body squeaks and boom are gone.
Dang! That’s some beef!
Found some water containers at a local hardware store that are the perfect size to fill the gap beside the fridge.
While I was on the job I lined the drawer with some rubber & changed the big drawer latch to a more low profile stopper.
Cheers
Clint
While I was on the job I lined the drawer with some rubber & changed the big drawer latch to a more low profile stopper.
Cheers
Clint
Went to uwharrie in the rain. Camped overnight. Did almost every trail. slick muddy Rock was giving me more difficulty the later half of today. Didn't realize why till I got out to the highway. Every single one of the studs that secures my right front locking wheel hub on snapped off. Perhaps I should have replaced all the studs with new studs and cone washers with new cone washers. Maybe the studs stretched. Maybe the new hub that I bought off of eBay was made with soft aluminum for the cone washer holes were slightly too large. I'm going to have to remove that hub sub assembly and take it to a machine shop to get those studs drilled out I guess.
The easy trails in uwharrie are a lot more fun and challenging when wet.
The easy trails in uwharrie are a lot more fun and challenging when wet.
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Finally got a winch installed. 12.5k Come Up thanks to @Willis . Unlike my last winch, I ran this one to a Blue Sea switch just as a precaution. I also got rock guards a while back for the expensive headlights. Hoping these will keep any gravel damage down... the next order of business is some sort of battery / cable management system. Right now there are way too many wires bolted to the connectors.
I've been going in and out of my dash these last few weeks on my free days to try and solve the problem of why my fuel/h20 and volt/oil gauges aren't working. No movement, just bottomed out needles. I've been trying to solve this since problem since July
I've now tested two different printed circuit boards and 3 sets of gauges.
I keep hearing that there's probably a short somewhere. Today I traced out the power for this circuit from its inlet (plug A7) to the various grounds (a couple common grounds that go to the chassis and then the grounds on the sender units.) Everything seems solid- no damaged wires or exposed leads or critters chewing up the harness. There is a small bit of damage (about 1/4" long) on the printed circuit board that I patched with conductive tape and covered with electrical tape.
The most promising set of replacement gauges I bought from a mud verified vendor. Upon arrival I installed them, but they didn't pass the FSM test of 55 amps of resistance through the terminals (Pages BE 33,35,36). The fuel gauge passes the test but none of the others.
Given the various grounds but only one common power inlet- I think that there's no power going to the circuit somehow. Which is really weird cause the tachometer gets power from plug A7 as well and works normally.
My theory is that
A) the gauges themselves are indeed fried and the replacements I bought were faulty from the get go.
B) the resistor in the circuit is faulty
C) there are a couple capacitors on this circuit on the underside of the printed circuit that might be faulty.
Any help would be awesome because dead gauges suck and I'm kind of stuck going on short trips without proper instrumentation.
I've now tested two different printed circuit boards and 3 sets of gauges.
I keep hearing that there's probably a short somewhere. Today I traced out the power for this circuit from its inlet (plug A7) to the various grounds (a couple common grounds that go to the chassis and then the grounds on the sender units.) Everything seems solid- no damaged wires or exposed leads or critters chewing up the harness. There is a small bit of damage (about 1/4" long) on the printed circuit board that I patched with conductive tape and covered with electrical tape.
The most promising set of replacement gauges I bought from a mud verified vendor. Upon arrival I installed them, but they didn't pass the FSM test of 55 amps of resistance through the terminals (Pages BE 33,35,36). The fuel gauge passes the test but none of the others.
Given the various grounds but only one common power inlet- I think that there's no power going to the circuit somehow. Which is really weird cause the tachometer gets power from plug A7 as well and works normally.
My theory is that
A) the gauges themselves are indeed fried and the replacements I bought were faulty from the get go.
B) the resistor in the circuit is faulty
C) there are a couple capacitors on this circuit on the underside of the printed circuit that might be faulty.
Any help would be awesome because dead gauges suck and I'm kind of stuck going on short trips without proper instrumentation.
The flexible plastic preprinted board in the guage cluster deteriorates over time. Mine had numerous repairs with jumper wires soldered from one point to another to fix where the original copper foil backing had flaked away. You can check the power and continuity on the board by pushing a pointed probe into the board on the circuit lines. You can do point to point wiring from the plug/wires to make up for the deterioration on the board if you still want to keep the original looking display.......................This item on the 70 series was not built to last forever, or made to be rebuilt. Jumper wires soldered in with good flux/solder will often rip free of the foil on reassembly. Not sure if you can buy a new replacement or not. I've been looking at GPS speedometers with multi function guage display, but have not done so yet, mostly because of 24V and lack of a dimmer to lower the brightness at night.I've been going in and out of my dash these last few weeks on my free days to try and solve the problem of why my fuel/h20 and volt/oil gauges aren't working. No movement, just bottomed out needles. I've been trying to solve this since problem since July
I've now tested two different printed circuit boards and 3 sets of gauges.
I keep hearing that there's probably a short somewhere. Today I traced out the power for this circuit from its inlet (plug A7) to the various grounds (a couple common grounds that go to the chassis and then the grounds on the sender units.) Everything seems solid- no damaged wires or exposed leads or critters chewing up the harness. There is a small bit of damage (about 1/4" long) on the printed circuit board that I patched with conductive tape and covered with electrical tape.
The most promising set of replacement gauges I bought from a mud verified vendor. Upon arrival I installed them, but they didn't pass the FSM test of 55 amps of resistance through the terminals (Pages BE 33,35,36). The fuel gauge passes the test but none of the others.
Given the various grounds but only one common power inlet- I think that there's no power going to the circuit somehow. Which is really weird cause the tachometer gets power from plug A7 as well and works normally.
My theory is that
A) the gauges themselves are indeed fried and the replacements I bought were faulty from the get go.
B) the resistor in the circuit is faulty
C) there are a couple capacitors on this circuit on the underside of the printed circuit that might be faulty.
Any help would be awesome because dead gauges suck and I'm kind of stuck going on short trips without proper instrumentation.
So thanks for being a second set of eyes metaphorically speaking.
Turns out there was a damaged section of the main power feed circuit that I had patched with aluminum foil tape. My multimeter showed that it was conductive on the top layer, but not on the adhesive bottom where it attached to the printed circuit.
I spent a second trying to solder in a better patch and quickly realized that it was a terrible idea. I ended up recycling some small gauge wire, stripped the ends, hammered it down real flat, and got real aggressive with a combo of electrical tape to press it onto the exposed circuit surface and hot glue to insulate it.
So happy to have this dumb issue resolved. Sorry if it's been annoying to any members.
Long story short take care of your gauge clusters cause they aren't easy to come by.
The bummer here is that the KPH layout is different than my gauge anyway, so no dice.
Ouch on that hub... great times with the kiddo!
Do you have any more info on the rear jump seat mod? I like the best of both worlds approach you'd get for a SWB/MWB
