What did you break on your 100 this week?

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God kill me before I add a "chirp" to my Hundy.
While I do prefer a chirp, to having to listen for the door lock actuators, I completely agree.

To me, it seems like an odd LC/LX differentiator, same for seat presets, when a a fair number of lesser model Toyotas had one or both. Then again, I have two of those luxury vehicles, so what do I know?
 
Take it off then put a light layer of red FIPG before twisting it back on. Don't ask me how I know :D
Your suggestion is actually better than my initial plan of remed -use teflon. Thanks for this.
 
Got back from running errands and wanted to start cleaning up some wiring after installing an AuxBeam setup. Popped the hood and noticed this tiny pinhole in my radiator shooting out a hot & sticky jet of distilled water and thermocure coolant cleaner. I’ve been flushing the coolant system & heater core over the past week so I’m not really sure how this problem originated. I taped off around it, lightly scuffed with 120 grit, then slathered on a thick layer of JBWeld. Hopefully it will hold!

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Got back from running errands and wanted to start cleaning up some wiring after installing an AuxBeam setup. Popped the hood and noticed this tiny pinhole in my radiator shooting out a hot & sticky jet of distilled water and thermocure coolant cleaner. I’ve been flushing the coolant system & heater core over the past week so I’m not really sure how this problem originated. I tapped off around it, lightly scuffed with 120 grit, then slathered on a thick layer of JBWeld. Hopefully it will hold!

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That’s bizarre. Surely the JB Weld will do fine on a hole that small.
 
That’s bizarre. Surely the JB Weld will do fine on a hole that small.
Yes very bizarre. I paid extra attention while working near around the radiator, especially around the heater tees by the firewall, so not sure how this happened. Regardless, I think I got it covered sufficiently so I will keep an eye on it and hope for the best. The radiator is in great shape otherwise with no other signs of premature failure.

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I found this ground wire disconnected from the engine hoist hook yesterday. Not sure how long it's been like that, and I'm certain I didn't leave it like that. Anywhoo, I managed to get it back where it belongs without screwing anything else up, I think.

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Got back from running errands and wanted to start cleaning up some wiring after installing an AuxBeam setup. Popped the hood and noticed this tiny pinhole in my radiator shooting out a hot & sticky jet of distilled water and thermocure coolant cleaner. I’ve been flushing the coolant system & heater core over the past week so I’m not really sure how this problem originated. I taped off around it, lightly scuffed with 120 grit, then slathered on a thick layer of JBWeld. Hopefully it will hold!

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Yes very bizarre. I paid extra attention while working near around the radiator, especially around the heater tees by the firewall, so not sure how this happened. Regardless, I think I got it covered sufficiently so I will keep an eye on it and hope for the best. The radiator is in great shape otherwise with no other signs of premature failure.

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Well that was a major failure…gave it 36hrs to cure and it failed in 10min. Went back and sanded/dremeled it all off, smothered it with another layer of JB Weld and that also failed. Assuming the failure was caused by high temps & pressures, I moved onto a high temp gasket maker. I decided not to tape it off this time and instead feathered out the edges. That just failed again today, except this time it was because the crack expanded beyond the area that was covered by the sealant. Now I’ve completely removed all the sealant and cleaned up the area to get a better look at it. It’s about 3-1/4” long now. Currently draining the coolant system of the distilled water & thermocure mixture since that’s making an absolute mess in my engine bay. Thinking of drilling two tiny holes on each end of the crack to stop it from spreading, then trying my luck with the gasket maker one more time. Any other ideas out there that avoid completely replacing it?? I’m at my wits end with this and it baffles me how this even started.

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Well that was a major failure…gave it 36hrs to cure and it failed in 10min. Went back and sanded/dremeled it all off, smothered it with another layer of JB Weld and that also failed. Assuming the failure was caused by high temps & pressures, I moved onto a high temp gasket maker. I decided not to tape it off this time and instead feathered out the edges. That just failed again today, except this time it was because the crack expanded beyond the area that was covered by the sealant. Now I’ve completely removed all the sealant and cleaned up the area to get a better look at it. It’s about 3-1/4” long now. Currently draining the coolant system of the distilled water & thermocure mixture since that’s making an absolute mess in my engine bay. Thinking of drilling two tiny holes on each end of the crack to stop it from spreading, then trying my luck with the gasket maker one more time. Any other ideas out there that avoid completely replacing it?? I’m at my wits end with this and it baffles me how this even started.

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Breaks my heart to tell you this, but there really is no good long term solution to this. A new radiator might be inevitable!
 
Breaks my heart to tell you this, but there really is no good long term solution to this. A new radiator might be inevitable!
That’s what I’m thinking too. Just pisses me off because this radiator is OEM and only 4-5yrs old!
 
That’s what I’m thinking too. Just pisses me off because this radiator is OEM and only 4-5yrs old!
It’s funny how the OE radiator seems to last 15-20 years, and the ones from the dealer parts counter, or “OEM” seem to last 1/4-1/3 that time 🤔
 
I've never had luck patching radiators with jb weld or fiberglass either. Can someone tig weld a little filet patch or something?
 
I didn't break this - it sort of broke itself. Poor design = trapping carbon steel cladding clip pieces inside a wet/salty environment.

I removed the rocker cladding to discover that all the steel retaining clips turned to dust. After investigating, I just ripped off the cladding and then replaced various plastic clips and double-sided foam tape (with 3M trim tape) and then re-glued the cladding to the panels with small blobs of PL Urethane construction adhesive. Working well. A time-sucking labor of love, for sure, and a PO used evil, useless aquarium caulk to attempt to re-glue the passenger front door cladding. The last photo shows freshly repainted cladding now firmly attached.

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I didn't break this - it sort of broke itself. Poor design = trapping carbon steel cladding clip pieces inside a wet/salty environment.

I removed the rocker cladding to discover that all the steel retaining clips turned to dust. After investigating, I just ripped off the cladding and then replaced various plastic clips and double-sided foam tape (with 3M trim tape) and then re-glued the cladding to the panels with small blobs of PL Urethane construction adhesive. Working well. A time-sucking labor of love, for sure, and a PO used evil, useless aquarium caulk to attempt to re-glue the passenger front door cladding. The last photo shows freshly repainted cladding now firmly attached.

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But what is this? :oops:

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