What are you working on? (4 Viewers)

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Pumped on progress today. Officially turned the corner from taking things apart to putting them back together.

Brand new rear heater lines cut so I could replace them w/o dropping the trans. Fingers crossed this works. Cut them right at the first straight part. New clamps and nuts all around. Yes, I cleaned up the metal after the cut.
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New rear line into the floor blower unit
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Stock join point between the front and rear hard lines.
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Where the cut was to join the top line.
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New hardware up top.
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Beyond happy to have this done finally. Got the heat shields reinstalled with no issues too. Now just need to swap to the SS studs on the new exhaust down pipe and hope to have that in tomorrow. After that it's all stuff I've done before so hoping it goes quickly. Still need to check spec on the head bolts though, I was hoping to re-use them.
 
Picked up a new garage play toy.
Actual work work has been crazy lately....this booming economy is going to kill me.

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Pumped on progress today. Officially turned the corner from taking things apart to putting them back together.

Brand new rear heater lines cut so I could replace them w/o dropping the trans. Fingers crossed this works. Cut them right at the first straight part. New clamps and nuts all around. Yes, I cleaned up the metal after the cut.
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New rear line into the floor blower unit
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Stock join point between the front and rear hard lines.
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Where the cut was to join the top line.
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New hardware up top.
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Beyond happy to have this done finally. Got the heat shields reinstalled with no issues too. Now just need to swap to the SS studs on the new exhaust down pipe and hope to have that in tomorrow. After that it's all stuff I've done before so hoping it goes quickly. Still need to check spec on the head bolts though, I was hoping to re-use them.
Chris you do nice work.
 
Thanks Gary ... I just do it really slowly and at maximum expense it seems. Got a few other little things done today.

New water pump and hardware.
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Oil cooler out of the parts washer and dried a few days, then installed with the new hardware, except the studs. They didn't want to come loose and I didn't wart to push my luck.
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Was prepping the exhaust down pipe and went to swap studs via the recommendation of @JeepinPete and hit a snag, they are welded in. I'm just going to anti-seize the crap out of them and let an exhaust shop deal with replacing the studs as needed. I don't want to get bogged down again.
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Thinking I will mount the head with the exhaust manifolds already mounted if I can hit the tq spec with the head off. Saves some leaning over and the back corner is a PITA to reach. I already mount the lower plenum to the head before install, so it should work out. Already pulled the studs that mount the manifolds to the down pipe and will re-install from the bottom once the head is mounted. If anyone knows of a glitch in this thinking please let me know.
 
Figured out why the speedometer stopped working.

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The trick is going to be routing the new speedometer cable - I’ve got the unique “speed marker” two piece cable setup that Toyota only used for a few years - to control a second odometer which would trigger the EGR light at service intervals.

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My understanding is the two-piece cables are no longer available - so I’ll need to convert to a one-piece cable, made slightly more interesting by the fact that nothing is where it should be due to the V8 swap.

That said, the transfercase is actually slightly forward of where it should be - so if anything I should be dealing with some extra slack, which is probably the lesser of two evils.

Anyone have any insight as to how the one piece cables are routed? Do they still come up the passenger side and across the firewall from the transfer case or do they run right up the driver’s side?
 
i ran the one piece up the left side...but found i was replacing them every 9-16 months, the quality just isnt there...ended up going oe with a speed marker and a two piece cable...i bought pieces up over the years as i found them.
 
i ran the one piece up the left side...but found i was replacing them every 9-16 months, the quality just isnt there...ended up going oe with a speed marker and a two piece cable...i bought pieces up over the years as i found them.

Where were your sourcing the 1 piece cables? I need to be operational for fall crawl so probably don’t have time to find the short run for the 2 piece.
 
The twenty-plus year old fluorescent lights in the workshop have been having issues lately - both with bulbs and ballasts. Looking at the options, I settled on ballast bypass LED bulbs. The resulting light is whiter and brighter.

Simple matter to clip the wires and pull the ballast and then rewire directly to the wires to the tombstones. It was pointed out to me that the tombstones aren't rated for the full 15A circuit, so I put a 3A circuit breaker in each fixture just to be safe.

You can see the difference in color between the old F96T12HO on the left and the LED on the right and the increase in light on the beam in the background in the final picture.

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Had some grinding in the left front rotor after the mud pit fun and assumed it was a stone lodged under the pad. What I thought would take a couple of hours ballooned into a couple of days and money spent as usual.

Pretty sure I found the issue. Pad was completely toast and then I found a sticky piston on the caliper.
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Rotor looks like classic vinyl
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This is what you get when you think a job is going to be a couple of hours and then you forget that you set the jack stand on asphalt on a hot day. Normally I would have the jack under the axle as a safety, but I was concerned the wife would hit the handle pulling into the garage. Milk crate saved it from hitting the ground.
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Thought I had the drivers side buttoned up and then realized I forgot to bend the star washer down in the hub to hold the outer nut in place. Cracked it all back open on day 2 to do it right. Cone washers are the devil ... seriously. Took me 30-45 mins of banging on things with a brass drift and hammer to get them loose.

Pass side was still super muddy, but the pads and rotor were still good. Pad wear showed that I must have been driving with the piston on the drivers side dragging the pad for a while. Pass side pads were only half used up. Starting to understand why Andy avoids the puddles and mud holes. I'm like a toddler with boots on in the rain.
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Project complete ... pretty much. I added some fluid and the bakes are functional, but spongy. Will get them bled properly on Weds at a shop. I need a better bleeding machine than what I have and I want the pedal super firm.
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Thanks to Andy and Avi for the real time tech help because I was lazy and stupid. Lesson learned ... just because you do something once, doesn't mean you remember all the steps to do it again.
 
finally got enough of a bug up my ass to replace the aftermarket weather strip on the right side door of the '75 with oem.
the results are so much better.

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Scored a genuine toyota body and chassis manual...for stupid cheap.
Came from a book place on ebay....they didn't do thorough research before listing it.....these can bring 150-250 bucks for the 40 series.
The cheesey poorly photocopied knockoff versions typically go for 30-50 bucks.
Cool thing is, its the '76 version so its been updated to include disc brake front axles.... I have a '77 axle under mine.

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Been working on a few things with work, haven't had much time to post. Started to make use of all those fine junk yard parts.

I finally got the 1UZ buttoned up:

I think I have finally fixed all the oil leaks. No new spots on the drive way or where ever I park it. The only thing I have to figure out is the thermostat housing. the Plastic elbow that comes off of it weeps ever so slightly, I'd like to figure out a fix before winter time.

The headlights are installed as well, just need a wet sand and buff and should be good to go:

Next was some interior details. I started with removing the driver seat to replace it with the one from the junkyard and ended up removing the passenger side as well to do a little cleaning.
Before:
After:

Not perfect but a heck of a lot better, than before, and the smell has already improved inside, also installed a cabin filter which has helps as well, who knew cabin filter in a 93'

I was going to install the new driver seat to fix the issue of it not locking in position till I started to take the old seat apart and found out the reason it would not lock in place, apparently the side seat panels were not secured correctly, cleaned and reinstalled everything and the seat is good to go, even fix the nets on both seats as well:
Before:
After:

Finally to complete the interior, I installed new speakers and speaker covers on the rear deck lid. The speakers I had installed were just sheet metal screwed in and had also melted from the heat and being exposed, I got nice speakers installed in the facotry pods from the junkyard car along with the cover, clean and has decent sound again:

Right now I am working on the last few projects I have left for the SC and should be a decent daily. First is the eBay spoiler that got ripped out of my hands by wind at the house and cracked so I had to fix, I used a dremel to notched out the cracks and filled in with a 3M two part epoxy I have, just need to sand down and Paint and it should be good:


And the final touch is a newer set of wheels, the wheels on the car are bent to hell and I get a good vibe at 60 and above which makes for a not so good time driving down the highway. I scored a set of 07 GS350 wheels that needed some love. I bought one of those home water sand blast kits for the pressure washer to get the hard corrosion knocked down at least and now I can rough them up with a scotch bright pad, then some fillter primer and Paint and it should be like lipstick on a pig for the rough SC of mine:
Before:
After:
 
CDL actuator was non op on the '93. Plus the output shafts were weeping a bit. The transfer case in the '95 never gave me any problems, so I resealed it this spring, and installed 3/1 LR gears. I just finally got around to swapping it in. When the CDL doesn't work, the axle locker also do not work. Now all three diffs lock like they should :grinpimp:
 
i'm in the garden tractor business, just inherited a '72 sears custom 10e, from the original owner.....if every thing plays out well, and it's looking good...i'll be transitioning from tenant, to home owner in the next few months.

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