What are you working on? (1 Viewer)

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bit of an add afternoon. Drug a 40th out of it's grave and worked on the suspension on the LX
 
Finally up and out
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Oil cooler cover is COVERED in baked oil. May just toss the entire thing and get a new unit.
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The liquid on #6 is just some coolant from me removing the hoses. This is before I sprayed cylinders down with some oil. Overall not bad, no broken bolts or studs and unbelievably, no broken harness clips on anything.
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Plugs 1-6 left to right.
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Sadly, the rear heater lines are rusted out badly and no longer available as a replacement part. Will either have to bypass or come up with a quick solution for soft lines. I am one of the few that actually used and enjoyed the rear heat function.

Valves are crusted in a hard white substance. Should this be concerning or is this normal?
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PHH hard line is beat, will get a full replacement. Sooooo many parts getting ordered. I might be McGeorge Toyota customer of the month. Maybe they will send me a free t-shirt.

Might attempt the correct the exhaust cam spring gear today, but need to hard mount my vice first.
 
@JeepinPete - The exhaust cam gear does have other holes. My adjustable pin wrench from Harbor Freight was maybe 3mm too small, so I ordered a larger spanner wrench from Amazon. Should be here tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up on the idea.

Prepped the head, intakes and manifolds to head to the machine shop for cleaning.

This is what happens when you ask a BMW shop to get your valve cover to stop leaking on your Lexus ... this RTV is everywhere. Like silly string. Pretty sure these have never been changed out since new. They took some coaxing, but finally broke them free.
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I'm looking at ultrasonic parts cleaners, but not trying to break the bank. Anyone have experience with one that is positive or should be avoided?
 
@JeepinPete - The exhaust cam gear does have other holes. My adjustable pin wrench from Harbor Freight was maybe 3mm too small, so I ordered a larger spanner wrench from Amazon. Should be here tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up on the idea.

Prepped the head, intakes and manifolds to head to the machine shop for cleaning.

This is what happens when you ask a BMW shop to get your valve cover to stop leaking on your Lexus ... this RTV is everywhere. Like silly string. Pretty sure these have never been changed out since new. They took some coaxing, but finally broke them free.
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I'm looking at ultrasonic parts cleaners, but not trying to break the bank. Anyone have experience with one that is positive or should be avoided?
What a mess. The hammer and chisel garage that previously worked on our LX used rtv for the axle hub caps (6bolts hold them on, not sure of the proper name) instead of using a proper paper gasket so the LX is waiting for the correct gaskets to show up, irritating.
 
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15 minutes with a pressure washer and it's fairly presentable. Sadly, the head is cracked and it's pretty rusty so it's purely a parts rig. Bumper and front apron are spoken for.
 
Cass I'm in Richmond the next few days and will be working with the used car manager at McGeorge Toyota, getting his 40 wired up and ready for the road. If I can help with anything let me know.
 
Just to prove I still do something to the 40 every now and then - I’m “street legal” again. I finally installed the license plate light on the 4plus bumper. This should have taken all of about 20 minutes but instead it took 3 hours - mostly because in the process of wiring the plate light I somehow lost my low beam headlights...and the plate light wouldn’t work.

Checked all the fuses, all good. Checked the voltage at both headlights past the relays in the IPF harness, working and switched correctly. Ran jumpers to the plate light straight off the battery to bypass the harness and switches, and it lit up. Then I checked the license plate “live” connection off the rear harness and got 10.6V. The LED plate light was rated from 10-30 volts, but 10 volts through the rear harness was a bit questionable. So - after an hour of checking electrical connections and fiddling I started the engine. With the alternator charging the headlights came back, and the LED got 12V and lit up.

Long story short, all I can figure is that somehow there just wasn’t enough “juice” in the system to actuate the low beam relay on the IPF harness, and perhaps the LED plate light needs 11V or so, despite being rated to 10V. Frustrating, to say the least, but everything seems to be in working order now...

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Now I just need to figure out how to get this up and put of harm’s way...

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I spent the weekend catching up on vehicle work. Kids and I gave a spring cleaning to all of the cars, I took the 80 to the car wash to pressure wash the underside. The 80 had obviously sat a long time before I bought it. There is grime in places I have never seem grime. But it is clean now, and looks pretty good from 10 feet.

The pressure washing led to a misfire. Ended up changing the plugs, and found a couple loose. Also swapped the cap and rotor from the spare engine. No signs of water anywhere, but that took care of the miss. Also found a loose clamp on the intake hose. The hesitation that was there is now gone too once the truck is warmed up. When cold it still has a slight bog in the 2k rpm range, but picks back up around 3k.
 
Set up the weight distribution hitch today. Can't get it low enough for my liking for this particular trailer but I am sure once I get my own it will do.

Truck hauls okay, probably need to pull the 4Runner a hair forward. But got it up to 65 with no sway so I'll call that a win. It's not a heavy duty truck but it will get the job done.


Will probably need a wider trailer too, I just squeeze in with the street AT tires, my mud tires and eventually the 35s may not fit
 
Set up the weight distribution hitch today. Can't get it low enough for my liking for this particular trailer but I am sure once I get my own it will do.

Truck hauls okay, probably need to pull the 4Runner a hair forward. But got it up to 65 with no sway so I'll call that a win. It's not a heavy duty truck but it will get the job done.


Will probably need a wider trailer too, I just squeeze in with the street AT tires, my mud tires and eventually the 35s may not fit
Food for thought. I can adjust my tounge as well as my hitch.
 
Dialed back some of my parts order at McGeorge and reallocated the funds to purchase a 30 Liter ultrasonic parts washer. Figured it was best to get a larger one and do more than just nuts and bolts. Should be here by Friday this week. Excited to see how it does cleaning things up.

Got everything for the head repair dropped off at machine shop yesterday. Will probably be a month for turn time or at least 3 weeks.

Still lots of other odds & ends to do on the truck during the downtime ... rebuild the parking brakes (again), new power steering pump, water pump and fan clutch. Apparently the PS cooler (paperclip) has a hole in it and I decided many years ago when I was broke to just bypass it ... Need to remedy that as well, but the hard line pass through the on the core support is rusted to death and no longer available. Rear heater lines are also rusted to death, but would love to find a work around if time permits.
 
Dialed back some of my parts order at McGeorge and reallocated the funds to purchase a 30 Liter ultrasonic parts washer. Figured it was best to get a larger one and do more than just nuts and bolts. Should be here by Friday this week. Excited to see how it does cleaning things up.

Got everything for the head repair dropped off at machine shop yesterday. Will probably be a month for turn time or at least 3 weeks.

Still lots of other odds & ends to do on the truck during the downtime ... rebuild the parking brakes (again), new power steering pump, water pump and fan clutch. Apparently the PS cooler (paperclip) has a hole in it and I decided many years ago when I was broke to just bypass it ... Need to remedy that as well, but the hard line pass through the on the core support is rusted to death and no longer available. Rear heater lines are also rusted to death, but would love to find a work around if time permits.
I have the pass through hard line in my toolbox. At least I did, I'll text you about it later
 
Finally figured out how "off" the speedo is..was guessing a solid 10mph..maybe 12...nope 15mph....3:70 rear greatest thing ever.
It's quite happily doing this, with all kinds of pedal and go left to use.


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Brian that is cool! Yeah I can see where the 3.70 gears suit your use better than 4.10. Are you running 31 or 33" tires?
My 40 with 4.88 gears and 35" tires does 60MPH at 3000 RPM. I don't take the old girl much higher than 3000 unless I'm on the highway and let it creep a little faster than 60MPH. I believe the truck itself would feel comfortable at higher speeds but I am very hesitant to turn the 2F over much faster than 3000. Typical highway speed for me is 55 or so.
 
33s, not totally sure on rpms, but well under 3k at 65.....and not terrible at 75, but i don't keep it there long any way.
i want to say the 370s lowered the rpms by 300 at any given speed vs the 410s...all the charts i've seen, say something in the 2500-2600rpm range at 65 mph.
 
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New project - 275/80/17 Goodyear MT/R mounted on sequoia wheels for the Taco. First thing I had to do was order wider spacers because the 17” sequoia wheels have .5” more backspace than the 80series wheels. ECGS got them to my house super fast. Here she is with the new wheel tire combo “stock”. Yes - they rub- a lot. Plan is to save these as Offroad set and keep the bighorns for daily driving.

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Going to shave down the bumper a little in the process- here are the planned cuts.

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