What are you working on? (7 Viewers)

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Looks like we had several folks working on rigs this weekend including me. Was able to lower my front diff to replace fully the diff breather hose. swap out the rear PS diff mount along with chiseling out the front diff mount and pressing new one in. Change oil in the T4R and Outback. Had the boyz working hard Sunday afternoon ;)

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Back on the tires again! Ourisman Toyota had 8 of those sleeves in stock, so of course I had to put it on and see how she looks.

I also picked up my seats. New Toyota cushions top and bottom and "Lseat" leather covers.

For reference. This is a front OME J spring lift, rear OME medium rear springs with a 30mm spacer. 315. BFG's

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Was stuck up at my parent's for the weekend, but brought along some cleaning supplies and vacuumed about a pound of red lab hair out of the HJ and hopefully breathed some new life into the starting to crack 60 series dash with plastic restorer. In the waning hours of daylight yesterday when I got home, I replaced the two really bad (of my 4) battery terminals with some fancy "mil-spec" ones from DeltaVS and cleaned up the wiring / grounding to the terminals with new lugs.

Slow day on the lawyering front today, so I ground/cut out some rust, stenciled and cut a couple new patches, welded in a seat belt anchor to one patch, and welded the patches into my wheel arch "speed holes." Just a bit more to do here. Decided to use fiberglass to patch the small holes on my RH side quarter panel issues. Hopefully will tackle that sometime this week with the nice weather.

Rob - will text ya this week about coming over to Willow Lawn for the LH side cuts and running boards.
 
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Diff rebuild update: pulled front diff apart yesterday. Found same issue on front as I did with rear, the Sierra Diff Rebuild Kit from Cruiser Outfitters has bearings that will "fit" but are significantly different. Taper is significantly different on pinion bearings and bearing races if installed are very hard to get out because almost no lip to put a brass bar on compared to stock bearings races. Rear carrier bearings appear to match up with original. Front carrier bearings are different, one is 40 mills thicker, bearing #'s do not match. Kit also has you shim pinion in different spot then how originally shimmed. Kit also dies come with bearing side shims for rear (needed). Moral of story, you are better off building your own kit. I'm not the only person to have this issue.

forum.ih8mud.com

Rear Diff Rebuild Questions

Hi all - I was able to rebuild my from differential thanks help from the board, and now I am on to the rear so figured I would reach out for some help to make sure I am going down the right path. Specs: - 1997 LC - 150K miles - factory e-lockers - Stock height I have been chasing a grinding on...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

Tried to finish right rear hub this afternoon. The hub is contacting/dragging slightly on the part of the oil seal that is attached to the backing plate. That part is not centered on the spindle. I have 1/8" difference between narrowest part to widest part when measuring from the spindle to oil seal lip. I don't see anything obviously bent but perhaps I'm just missing where the issue is coming from. The question is, is the backing plate/oil seal bent or is the spindle or just loosenthings up and try to make small adjustments? I didn't notice any issues on opposite side. Thoughts?

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seal not seated all the way?
 
David, besides the taper, why would it not work?
 
matzell said:
David, besides the taper, why would it not work?
Click to expand...
It will work but if you use their shim kit you have to place the shims under the bearing race. The Sierra bearing race has a much larger inner diameter and is nearly impossible to remove because of no lip to get ahold of. Also read some failure issues related to the Sierra pinion bearings attributed to taper difference.
 
forum.ih8mud.com

Rear Diff Rebuild Questions

Hi all - I was able to rebuild my from differential thanks help from the board, and now I am on to the rear so figured I would reach out for some help to make sure I am going down the right path. Specs: - 1997 LC - 150K miles - factory e-lockers - Stock height I have been chasing a grinding on...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
Having some potentially electrical issues with my brake master cylinder on 1999 Landcruiser. Anyone have a good recommendation of a place that could do some electrical trouble shooting anywhere from Charlottesville-Staunton-Harrisonburg? New master cylinder is $1,300--willing to do it but I'll be driving into the side of the mountain I spend that and dont even fix it.
ShenValley100LC said:
Ok, so I'm have having issues with brake master cylinder but its seems slightly different than what I've in the threads and almost like I have of an electrical issue maybe that may or may not be solved by replacing the whole master cylinder.

(for context its a 1999 LC with 572,000 miles)
This past Tuesday on a fairly warm morning my wife turned the car on, the brake motor came on normal but after 20 or so seconds got a bit louder with a bit of screeching/whistling sound (not quite as loud or constant as the screaming seagull sound I've heard on others videos) and the abs and brake light go on and off about 1.5 seconds but no alarm. Later that day I pumped the brakes 30 times and turned the key to on (without starting) and got the same intermittent screech and slowly blinking lights, if I tap the pedal during this it cuts off the noise from the brake motor/accumulator and the lights but then they come back.

I have checked and there are no bubbles and splashing of fluid when the screeching happens or when the motor/booster is on. It seems more like an issue with the high pressure switch. I also audibly hear a clicking (tick/tock) sound that seems almost like it is coming from the fuse box/or maybe abs box. None of the fuses look blown, but not sure about the relays. I only have a scan gauge II and a $25 code reader from amazon and neither show any codes. I'm guessing if there is ABS sensor/solenoid/fuse issues it would show up on these devices? Do I need techstream or just a better code reader? I did replace the passenger side CV on saturday, maybe I knocked the abs sensor?

I did have an issue at the end of December where on a road trip with the family the flare nut going into the three way junction on top of the rear was leaking and I had a shop cut it, reflare, and flush the brakes, and it does look like they overfilled the reservoir (and most likely not with toyota fluid). It looks like it may have over flowed since then and maybe the hygroscopic issues are affecting the wiring for the master cylinder. If that's the case it would seem replacing the whole MC assembly would take care of it.

I'm trying to figure out how I can be sure the master cylinder vs an electrical problem elsewhere (rain egress in the a pillar getting on wiring, abs sensor, fuses/relays, etc)?

Click to expand...
 
ShenValley100LC said:
Having some potentially electrical issues with my brake master cylinder on 1999 Landcruiser. Anyone have a good recommendation of a place that could do some electrical trouble shooting anywhere from Charlottesville-Staunton-Harrisonburg? New master cylinder is $1,300--willing to do it but I'll be driving into the side of the mountain I spend that and dont even fix it.
Click to expand...
Master cyl is not elec. abs is. We have had to replace them before.
 
We have lights! Had to look at green onE to see how to wire them up. Ended up replacing all the oem. Connectors as they were all broken and would not stay connected. A few more little things to do then off to get inspected!

Headlamps were not too far off on aiming. Adjusted them and will check once I get to shop.

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matzell said:
Master cyl is not elec. abs is. We have had to replace them before.
Click to expand...
Yeah, just not sure if its a bad abs sensor thats throwing everything off or its the abs unit or relays or if its the high pressure switch.
 
ShenValley100LC said:
Having some potentially electrical issues with my brake master cylinder on 1999 Landcruiser. Anyone have a good recommendation of a place that could do some electrical trouble shooting anywhere from Charlottesville-Staunton-Harrisonburg? New master cylinder is $1,300--willing to do it but I'll be driving into the side of the mountain I spend that and dont even fix it.
Click to expand...
How far is @OTRAMM or @matzell his shop form you. Sorry can't recommend any shops up that way.
 
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