What are you working on?
- Thread starter matzell
- Start date
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That’s some expensive quality stuff right there!
- Thread starter
- #1,843
I found it last weekend, she did a song and dance and she drove to PA Sat to pick it up. Lets just say she saved thousands on this set up.
Very nice!!
High beam switch is fixed! Still need to finish installing my remote winch controller and then put the rope on the winch.
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
Strong work!!
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
I think you'll like those Kendas. Read a lot of good reviews and almost got them when I got 35s. Looking forward to seeing the performance on the trail. I wonder what will rub!?
Quick check and only a little rub in the front, rear fender area, easy to take care of. Pretty surprised
Making it harder for your wife and kids to climb into when you get that 80 and the 200 becomes the new mom mobile?
Sorry, I’m deep down jelly because I’ve been trying for a few years now to convince my wife to make a 200 her next ride but she’s set on getting back into an E-ClassOddly enough my wifes favorite vehicle (and would kill me if I sold it) is my 3500 on 38s. Currently trying to convince my wife to drive a 200 for her mom car too, dont blame her though a 500hp Audi is really fun.Making it harder for your wife and kids to climb into when you get that 80 and the 200 becomes the new mom mobile?
Spent the past few evenings working on my 4x4labs rear bumper build. Making progress but definitely going slow. So far I have gotten the factory parts removed, crossmember cut out and ground smooth, frame cut back, and sides bolted on. I am busy all day tomorrow but hoping to get the rest of the bumper tacked together Sunday afternoon. If any club members are free and are willing to lend a hand, shoot me a message.
Only issue I currently have is with the captive bolts inside the frame. The bracket that holds the two in the rear has rusted away. Must be some cheap metal because there is not a speck of rust on the frame itself. The passenger side broke free and I was able to reach in the frame and get it to line up. Hopefully I can get the welder in there and tack the nuts back in place. The drivers side bracket is bent and making it impossible to get the last bolt to thread. Spent a good hour messing with it but no luck.
Only issue I currently have is with the captive bolts inside the frame. The bracket that holds the two in the rear has rusted away. Must be some cheap metal because there is not a speck of rust on the frame itself. The passenger side broke free and I was able to reach in the frame and get it to line up. Hopefully I can get the welder in there and tack the nuts back in place. The drivers side bracket is bent and making it impossible to get the last bolt to thread. Spent a good hour messing with it but no luck.
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
I've got some ideas on how to work on that bent captive nut as I had to deal with the same thing. You'll need a long pry bar and large hammer.... not sure but may be able to come Sunday I will message you.
- Thread starter
- #1,854
If you can weld the nut to a piece of flat stock, you could place it in place and start the bolt. When you go to tighten it, the flat stock will catch the inside of the frame and lock it into position. Think of it as a lolli pop stick with the nut on the end instead of candy.. You could also use a random bolt, butt welded to the side of the nut as well. Just something that will lock in place. Make it long enough to hold so you can start the bolt.
- Thread starter
- #1,855
Something like this
www.mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
The factory setup is actually a set of two nuts welded on a bracket that was welded to the outside wall of the frame. That part is still decent metal. It’s the thin gauge steel they used to weld to outside wall of inside of frame that is just bent and making it difficult to line both nuts up. Might need to just break the weld free with a pry bar and hammer, straighten bracket, and place in by hand. Not to worried. Plenty of options to fix, just one of those things that adds extra hours to a project.
- Thread starter
- #1,857
It is hard to explain this to customers sometimes when working on older vehicles. Good luck.
A little less Lexus and little more Toyota now. It was bittersweet because I loved the look of those painted flares, but how I plan to wheel this rig, swanky looks don’t matter and functionality does. I finished what the trail started last weekend and de-flared the rest of my rig. The LX makes it interesting vs the standard LC by integrating their flares with the door cladding so cutting was necessary if you didn’t want to end up with an extra 100 door holes. Just waiting on some body plugs now but overall the paint beneath cleaned up well.
Now the big thing, which I always knew the flares were hiding. My good buddy Rust, in the typical rear quarter panel where the 2lbs of muck has collected behind that flare and sat against those rear lower quarter panels for 30 years.
At this point I don’t care about cosmetics because I’m going to take this rig through anything and everything without a worry. However I do want to address those rear lower panels prior to installing an upcoming 4x4 Labs bumper.
Having said that, I am a complete novice when it comes to welding and metal fab. Anyone knowledgeable in this subject want to help me with those rear lower panels, as I learn from your experience to hopefully attack other misc areas later that are not quite as pressing? Doesn’t need to be pretty…just cutting out the bad and welding in some sheet metal to seal the outside from the inside. Paint black and then I’ll cover with a new bumper. I’ll be glad to shower you with expenses, favors, yellow jackets, good conversation, etc.!
Now the big thing, which I always knew the flares were hiding. My good buddy Rust, in the typical rear quarter panel where the 2lbs of muck has collected behind that flare and sat against those rear lower quarter panels for 30 years.
At this point I don’t care about cosmetics because I’m going to take this rig through anything and everything without a worry. However I do want to address those rear lower panels prior to installing an upcoming 4x4 Labs bumper.
Having said that, I am a complete novice when it comes to welding and metal fab. Anyone knowledgeable in this subject want to help me with those rear lower panels, as I learn from your experience to hopefully attack other misc areas later that are not quite as pressing? Doesn’t need to be pretty…just cutting out the bad and welding in some sheet metal to seal the outside from the inside. Paint black and then I’ll cover with a new bumper. I’ll be glad to shower you with expenses, favors, yellow jackets, good conversation, etc.!
Build - TRDdrew's build: let me introduce Waffles - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/trddrews-build-let-me-introduce-waffles.1315659/post-16142758
I need to do something similar. This is going to be my inspiration. That said Andrew is a paint and body guy so it won’t turn out like this
I need to do something similar. This is going to be my inspiration. That said Andrew is a paint and body guy so it won’t turn out like this
I saw Curly Dave’s handiwork at the same area this past weekend and need something similar. I don’t care how much the necessary cutting affects the overall look because most will be covered on the sides with a new bumper. As long as it stops the cancer and keeps me going! I’ve regretted for years not learning basic welding skills and this is a perfect example of why!