I was thinking about getting some headers and I just wanted to hear what you guys think about the different brands. How well they fit, if they are quality, and if there is a performance boost. I have a 3 speed column shift and I'm not sure which headers do and don't fit, but I'll figure that out. Just let me know how well you like the ones you have.
what about headers
- Thread starter mathblaster
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Do you have or plan to get a PTO winch? That will limit your choices severely...
I have a Man-a-fre 6-1 Header on mine.. it works pretty well, but the top mounting flange warped over time, and I am having a hell of a time trying to eliminate exhaust/intake manifold leaks.. otherwise, butt dyno says it has more go than the stock ones.. I also run an oversized exhaust system which helps get things flowing a little.. just remember, most headers eliminate the heat riser and can cause some tough start in cold climates.. good luck.
Mike
Mike
brian
SILVER Star
i have a 6>2>1 . guess it's a tri-Y type header.running into a 2.5" exhaust.
bought from downey, made by jardin.
that ,a weber, hei and a desmog. the ol' 40 runs pretty good.
bought from downey, made by jardin.
that ,a weber, hei and a desmog. the ol' 40 runs pretty good.
I also have the maf 6 into 1 set up.......I'm not sure how long it was on before I bought it, but I can vouch for the exact same thing that offcamber40 has to say.......cold starting is a bitch and about 15 min....till good and warm if idleing. and it is leaking right around the top flange. Not sure if it helps......but it's more input for ya. :dunno:
:G
MAF's liquid heatriser helps significantly with the 6>1. This is the header, by the way, that I found to fit with the PTO winch setup. Greenyweeny mentioned another one, don't recall what it is.
I liked my 2 piece from SOR. Much easier to seal against the manifold.
I liked my 2 piece from SOR. Much easier to seal against the manifold.
.............I just wish fuel was free!
I HAVE USED DOWNY 6-2-1 AND MY ONLY COMPLIANT IS THE FITTMENT OF THE FLANGE AND INTAKE FOR BOTH UNITS I HAVE PURCHASED,HOWEVER THE MATERIALS USED TO BUILD THESE HEADERS LAST LONGER THAN THE MANAFRE HEADER,I HAD A 40 WHICH I PURCHASED DOWNEY HEADERS FOR AND HAD NO PROBLEM WITH WARPAGE OR RUST UNTIL ABOUT 9 YEARS OF HARD USAGE AND WELDED THE RUST SPOT AND IT STILL DOES NOT LEAK,I PURCHASED A 60 WITH A DOWNEY HEADER ,THE OIGINAL OWNER HAD INSTALLED 10 YEARS BEFORE I PURCHASD IT AND HE SAID THE HEADER HAD JUST STARTED LEAKING A LITTLE SO I TOOK IT OFF AND WELDED IT IN THE SAME PLACE THE HEADER LEAKED ON THE 40 AND PROBLEM SOLVED,HOWEVER I DONATED THE REPARED 60 HEADER TO MY FRIENDS PROJECT 40 AND PURCHASED A NEW DOWNEY HEADER FOR THE 60, AND HAD THE SAME FITMENT PROBLEM AS I DID WITH THE 40,THE HEADER AND MANIFOLD MUST BE GROUND FOR A PERFECT FIT IT TAKES ME ABOUT AN HOUR TO MAKE THE PROPER FIT,BUT I WOULD RATHER SPEND THE TIME TO MAKE THE DOWNEY HEADER FIT THAN TO HAVE TO CONSTANTLY TWEAK ON A LESS QUALITY HEADER,PLUS MOST HEADERS DONT LAST 5 YEARS WITHOUT TOTAL RUST COVERAGE AND WARPAGE THAT HAS NOT BEEN THE CASE WITH DOWNEY HEADERS FOR ME.
ON ANOTHER NOTE FOR A PERFECT NO LEAK INTAKE HEADER FLANGE FITMENT USE A LARGE DIA WASHER WITH AS CLOSE TO THE SIZE OF THE STUD AS POSSIBLE 7/16 OR 3/8 AND GRIND TO AN EGG SHAPE SO THAT THE FAT END IS OVER THE HEADER AND THE SMALL END FITS INTO THE RECESED AREA ON THE INTAKE,I HAVE USED THIS ON MY CRUISER AND MY FRIENDS AND THEY NEVER LEAK AT THE INTAKE/EXAUST AREA . AS FAR AS THE FLANGE CONNECTION BY THE EXPENSIVE GASKETS AND USE COPPER COAT I GET ABOUT 6 TO 8 MONTHS IF I AM WHEELING ALOT 12 IF NOT,ALSO USE THE FACTORY HARD MOUNT THAT BOLTS TO THE BELLHOUSING OR YOUR HEADER WILL CRACK OVER TIME.
THESE HAVE BEEN MY EXPERIENCES WITH DOWNEY HEADERS.
THE MANAFRE STYLE I HAVE ONLY SEEN THEM ON OTHER CRUISERS AND MOST OF THEM LEAKED.
GOOD LUCK AND DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!!!!
ON ANOTHER NOTE FOR A PERFECT NO LEAK INTAKE HEADER FLANGE FITMENT USE A LARGE DIA WASHER WITH AS CLOSE TO THE SIZE OF THE STUD AS POSSIBLE 7/16 OR 3/8 AND GRIND TO AN EGG SHAPE SO THAT THE FAT END IS OVER THE HEADER AND THE SMALL END FITS INTO THE RECESED AREA ON THE INTAKE,I HAVE USED THIS ON MY CRUISER AND MY FRIENDS AND THEY NEVER LEAK AT THE INTAKE/EXAUST AREA . AS FAR AS THE FLANGE CONNECTION BY THE EXPENSIVE GASKETS AND USE COPPER COAT I GET ABOUT 6 TO 8 MONTHS IF I AM WHEELING ALOT 12 IF NOT,ALSO USE THE FACTORY HARD MOUNT THAT BOLTS TO THE BELLHOUSING OR YOUR HEADER WILL CRACK OVER TIME.
THESE HAVE BEEN MY EXPERIENCES WITH DOWNEY HEADERS.
THE MANAFRE STYLE I HAVE ONLY SEEN THEM ON OTHER CRUISERS AND MOST OF THEM LEAKED.
GOOD LUCK AND DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!!!!
I have a '68 FJ40, and have run both the Man-a-fre and SOR headers on it. Both fit with the column shift.
I put the Man-a-fre headers on in 1977. Fit was a bitch, requiring making half washers to match the thicknesses of the intake manifold and header flange. Eventually the flange warped and leaks were a problem. It finally rusted out after 20 years and I replaced it last year with the SOR.
The SOR was a much better fit. The flanges were the same thickness as the intake manifold (no half washers). It is a 2 piece unit, which may make it less likely to warp. It was a little harder to get their header pipe on, but was very solid once it's there.
I don't know if the SOR will last as long as the Man-a-fre did, but I like the fit better, and it seems to be better made (nicer welds around the pipes at the flanges, etc.). I would go with the SOR headers again if I had to do it over.
I put the Man-a-fre headers on in 1977. Fit was a bitch, requiring making half washers to match the thicknesses of the intake manifold and header flange. Eventually the flange warped and leaks were a problem. It finally rusted out after 20 years and I replaced it last year with the SOR.
The SOR was a much better fit. The flanges were the same thickness as the intake manifold (no half washers). It is a 2 piece unit, which may make it less likely to warp. It was a little harder to get their header pipe on, but was very solid once it's there.
I don't know if the SOR will last as long as the Man-a-fre did, but I like the fit better, and it seems to be better made (nicer welds around the pipes at the flanges, etc.). I would go with the SOR headers again if I had to do it over.
A guy at Specter told me that headers often don't allow fuel to be heated to the point of vaporization, so fuel is squirted into the cylinders in liquid form. It runs down the side of the cylinder wall and causes damage over time. Anyone had this experience? Maybe it's primarily a problem in cold climates. Not sure.
It may sound like a pain, but if you are going to go through the trouble of taking off the stock stuff and put on a header, take them both to a machine shop and have them plane both of the intake and headers to be the same thicknesses at the bolt mounting surface since they share the same bolts. It will help prevent any warpage as well as any cracking of the intake over time.
EDIT:
I meant that the two bolt mounting surfaces should match in thickness. You may be able to do that in the shop with a Dremel.
After typing what I put in above, I thought it sounded a little ambiguous. :G
EDIT:
I meant that the two bolt mounting surfaces should match in thickness. You may be able to do that in the shop with a Dremel.
After typing what I put in above, I thought it sounded a little ambiguous. :G
