Well this isn't going to be fun

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Spook50

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So in the midst of waiting for a ride on Saturday to get a part I needed for my manifold & injector job, I took a minute to pull off my downpipe assembly so that I could weld closed a couple pinholes where an O2 sensor bung was welded in place, and saw this on the studs:

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I don't have the time to properly fix it now (nor do I have a new O2 sensor gasket to use) so at a later date when I have more free time to just replace both O2 sensors, I'll cut the studs, drill and tap new holes and just install new stainless studs in their place.

Or depending on how deteriorated these bungs are by then, just cut them out entirely and burn new ones on :meh:
 
I had the same on my wifes 100 series. Did same thing. Cut out started over. Cried softly 🤣
Mine's a custom exhaust so I'm really hoping that he put aftermarket bungs on the new(er) pipes instead of just transferring the old OEM ones over. If he used aftermarket there's a good chance that they're already M6 studs threaded in place and with any luck I might be able to extract them with a little Mouse Milk and heat. It would sure make replacing them FAR easier.

Just wish I could take the time to go ahead and get it done before next weekend's road trip.
 
Second that on the mouse milk. I have also had really good success with 100% deet. Spray it on (no rubber anything nearby) and wait 24 hours apply often.
 
Second that on the mouse milk. I have also had really good success with 100% deet. Spray it on (no rubber anything nearby) and wait 24 hours apply often.
I've never even heard of using Deet. You're talking the bug spray??
 
So in the midst of waiting for a ride on Saturday to get a part I needed for my manifold & injector job, I took a minute to pull off my downpipe assembly so that I could weld closed a couple pinholes where an O2 sensor bung was welded in place, and saw this on the studs:

View attachment 3636280

I don't have the time to properly fix it now (nor do I have a new O2 sensor gasket to use) so at a later date when I have more free time to just replace both O2 sensors, I'll cut the studs, drill and tap new holes and just install new stainless studs in their place.

Or depending on how deteriorated these bungs are by then, just cut them out entirely and burn new ones on :meh:


Hi Mr Spook …

This is what you be needing ….

these are not any ordinary metallurgy …,

Only a Milwaukee “ COBAULT “ drill bit will penetrate these studs …

I have tried a DIAMOND 💎 1/8 bit too , NO way Jose ..

The best method I have found is to BY HAND …

Use vise grips you have PRE - test fit to death grip setting …

Then OXY TORCH the hex nut and tip only …

NOT the BOSS of the flange …

Super heat it fast …

And then vice grip it back and forth out best you can


If that fails is will not work ?

They look pretty smoked there …

Simply AMAZON a new boss M8 x 1.25 ..

Or 2

ONLY use this OEM toyota JAPAN spec hardware

TRASH the included China 🇨🇳 Getto crap

Only use the bozz

They have a mixed alloy one that is MIG weldable and accepts the JIS OEM toyota Hardware


YELLOW map gas works here too


I also Pre-heat the NEW BOSS this way you do not burn Through the thinner pipe first

Just like cast iron

If you think taking it off is easier ..?

Then you just made that call …HELL YES it is !!!

the main flanges is ok to burn OFF all bolts and nuts M10x1.25

I have the OEM service Hardware Cats. MEOW MEOW grade only FLY japan. stuff …


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I've never even heard of using Deet. You're talking the bug spray??



02 sensors gaskets oem

NOTE : the JIS Markings on the head …

I would equate this to a Commercial LOCK SHACKLE steel you cannot use BOLT CUTTERS , like on all yellow CAT bulldozers fuel caps in neighborhood construction sites growing up ….🤣




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Mouse Milk?
 
Mouse Milk?
Best penetrating oil out there. For years I'd been a die hard Kroil user, but Mouse Milk has been even more effective in shorter time in the last couple years I've been using it. Think it was on here that I first heard about it too.

@ToyotaMatt dude, remember, 20+ years on old vehicles and 60+ year old aircraft. Extracting old fasteners of all kinds of different metals and repairing threaded holes is nothing new at all to me. I have a full set of cobalt drill bits specifically for this purpose too. Not only was I given a seat on the Council, but they granted me the rank of Master....
 
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Hats off to you for the battle ahead. Been there as well. Fire, patience and penetrating oil and you got this. :) :cheers:
Just another groaner of a chore to look forward to 😂
 
Yep the bug spray. But it’s gotta be the 100 proof. Best results with Ben’s in the orange bottle. It’s now impossible to get in Canada. Too toxic. Wear gloves. And ventilate.

A buddy of mine from Prince Edward Island showed me that years ago. I was very skeptical. I have to say I’m not now. It needs time to stew tho. Mouse milk is no slouch either.
 
Yep the bug spray. But it’s gotta be the 100 proof. Best results with Ben’s in the orange bottle. It’s now impossible to get in Canada. Too toxic. Wear gloves. And ventilate.

A buddy of mine from Prince Edward Island showed me that years ago. I was very skeptical. I have to say I’m not now. It needs time to stew tho. Mouse milk is no slouch either.
Damn now I'm curious. I'll have to see if I can easily find some around here.
 

That’s the stuff. Let me know if you get positive results. Always nice to have lots of rusty bolt ammo in the tool box.
 
I would not muck around with DEET, it is pretty nasty stuff.
I just put a new exhaust system on my 61, i was having trouble with the nuts on the turbo elbow, an old car restorer guy told me to use beeswax.
Put some on the nuts and heat from the system melts it into the threads, nuts came straight off like magic. works so well i was shocked.
Give it a go.
 
I would not muck around with DEET, it is pretty nasty stuff.
I just put a new exhaust system on my 61, i was having trouble with the nuts on the turbo elbow, an old car restorer guy told me to use beeswax.
Put some on the nuts and heat from the system melts it into the threads, nuts came straight off like magic. works so well i was shocked.
Give it a go.
I've tried the beeswax trick a few times with varying degrees of success. It does work great with just stuck fasteners where the threads haven't gotten badly corroded. Course threaded fasteners especially were made way easier with beeswax. And when it works, it's a lot cheaper than Kroil and Mouse Milk. Unfortunately in cases where corrosion has gotten deep enough in to nearly fuse the fastener and hole threads together, sometimes the entire thing ends up being a lost cause and time to pull out the drill bits and taps.

My plan of attack when I eventually tackle this is to hopefully get the nuts off without breaking the remaining portion of the studs, then some penetrating oil and a LOT of heat/cool cycles to free it up, then with the (hopefully still serviceable) threads exposed by removing the O2 sensor, use the double nut method to back the studs out as gently as possible. This is fortunately a job I can do on my bench so if it does lead to having to drill and tap, at least I'm not doing it at an awkward angle underneath the truck.
 
Best penetrating oil out there. For years I'd been a die hard Kroil user, but Mouse Milk has been even more effective in shorter time in the last couple years I've been using it. Think it was on here that I first heard about it too.

@ToyotaMatt dude, remember, 20+ years on old vehicles and 60+ year old aircraft. Extracting old fasteners of all kinds of different metals and repairing threaded holes is nothing new at all to me. I have a full set of cobalt drill bits specifically for this purpose too. Not only was I given a seat on the Council, but they granted me the rank of Master....


that's amazing Spook , ....

i did not know this ,,?



when you complete t-ten toyota grants you Master diagnostic rank too , i even get a sparky patch to stich on shoulder of all my work-robes

toyota has not given me a seat on the Council yet like you , :confused:

.



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