Well it's finally here
- Thread starter Pygmalion
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- #22
pretty cool I dig the taurus power dist blocks, very neatLooks like they are designed for the fan? What are the relay blocks out of?
The Taurus power dist blocks have the main fuses for all the separate electrical circuits that take big power (the smallest fuse is 30A). I assume that two of the fuses are for the fan circuit(s), but I couldn't say definitively. I plan on using one of the blocks to handle all the forward lighting (I plan on having another set of off-road lights, and a set of foglights, along with the stock headlights), as well as the stereo system, and anything else that needs a high amperage fuse.
The relay block came out of a Toyota sedan, and was used for the air conditioning fans. It worked out beautifully, having them all in the same housing, so it looks 'stock'. I had first found all the power solenoids and was going to run those, and then as I was passing the Toyota I gave the under-hood electronics a quick once-over and saw the relay block. I'm trying to keep things as much Toyota as possible, but right now I'm really just trying to find stuff that looks stock, but the donor vehicle make is of pretty minor importance.
fastjim11 said:
You, sir, have just made 'hero' status in my book.
SOR sells used lenses for like $20, but if I can get the whole assembly(s) for that price, then I'll be stoked. I'm now watching that auction and a few others.
A big, big thanks!
- Thread starter
- #23
I was finally able to put a few hours today into working on the pig, and I got quite a bit done.
First order of business was to cut out some of the rust that's been taunting me so I could see just how extensive the damage was.
The first place I cut into was the rust right below the passenger rear door, and it wasn't really as bad as I thought it would be.
Here's what the stuff looks like that comes out... mostly red clay and sand.
Then I hacked and slashed into the driver's fender
As you can see behind the dirt, the fender brace is pretty much dissolved as well, so I'll be fabricating part of the brace too.
Here's a shot of the floorpan seam in front of the rear seat.
The whole center of the seam, along with the corners next to the door sills needs replacing. You can kinda make out the hole right in the middle of the photo. The corners are going to be fun to fab, since it's such tight quarters.
About this time I forgot about taking pictures, and just jumped in headfirst.
I also cut out some of the rust in the driver's floorboard, and the rust patch in the driver's rear quarterpanel. From there, I decided to tear into the tailgate and figure out what was going on there. I had to go from the battery straight to the terminal block due to wiring problems, but the window rolled down immediately. Thinking that was too easy, I rolled it back up, and then down again, and that's when it hung up about halfway down, and I had to help it.
One thing I noticed right off was the passenger-side roller on the rear window wasn't attached to the metal part across the bottom of the rear window, since the little stud it attaches to had broken off. Luckily the stud was still attached to the roller track, so I can probably weld it in. The other one broke off as well when I was trying to tap the track off the window after removing the key. I was able to pry the metal and rubber holder off the bottom of the window glass and then removed the window. I removed the actuator assembly, took the cover off the window gear and it's split in three places (aren't they all).
This is when I discovered what the nylon strap was for that was dangling out of the bottom of the tailgate... the previous-previous owner's 'door handle'. Unfortunately the tailgate handle is broken (another thing for the list), so the PPO tied a nylon strap to both of the tailgate latch linkages, then pulled them open with the strap. You can see the strap in the photo of the rear of the pig. It's dangling right across the bumper. I also discovered why the tailgate window switch wasn't working, because the ground wire had popped off of it's pad on the switch. So I rebuilt the switch, resoldered the wire, and it feels like new.
I gave the tailgate a good wire brushing and aside from being a little pitted, the tailgate steel is in great shape without any rot.
I poked around under the hood a bit too. The carb is a Carter, though I'm not sure what model yet. I found a sticker on the inner fender right above the Advance Adapter sticker that says "Jeep Conversions, Sacramento, CA", along with a phone number and address, so it appears that the V-8 conversion was 'professionally' done. That gives me hope that the conversion was done correctly, and there won't be any scares as I go through the drivetrain.
One odd thing is that the current Delco Remy alternator that's attached to the engine has it's fan fins pointing leftward as well, which means that either my definition of clockwise is all bass-ackwards, or for some odd reason there's already a counter-clockwise alternator on my clockwise drivetrain. Weird...
I then pulled some more of the headliner out, and the insulation too, and about that time it was time to get ready for work.
All in all, it was a pretty productive day.
First order of business was to cut out some of the rust that's been taunting me so I could see just how extensive the damage was.
The first place I cut into was the rust right below the passenger rear door, and it wasn't really as bad as I thought it would be.
Here's what the stuff looks like that comes out... mostly red clay and sand.
Then I hacked and slashed into the driver's fender
As you can see behind the dirt, the fender brace is pretty much dissolved as well, so I'll be fabricating part of the brace too.
Here's a shot of the floorpan seam in front of the rear seat.
The whole center of the seam, along with the corners next to the door sills needs replacing. You can kinda make out the hole right in the middle of the photo. The corners are going to be fun to fab, since it's such tight quarters.
About this time I forgot about taking pictures, and just jumped in headfirst.
I also cut out some of the rust in the driver's floorboard, and the rust patch in the driver's rear quarterpanel. From there, I decided to tear into the tailgate and figure out what was going on there. I had to go from the battery straight to the terminal block due to wiring problems, but the window rolled down immediately. Thinking that was too easy, I rolled it back up, and then down again, and that's when it hung up about halfway down, and I had to help it.
One thing I noticed right off was the passenger-side roller on the rear window wasn't attached to the metal part across the bottom of the rear window, since the little stud it attaches to had broken off. Luckily the stud was still attached to the roller track, so I can probably weld it in. The other one broke off as well when I was trying to tap the track off the window after removing the key. I was able to pry the metal and rubber holder off the bottom of the window glass and then removed the window. I removed the actuator assembly, took the cover off the window gear and it's split in three places (aren't they all).
This is when I discovered what the nylon strap was for that was dangling out of the bottom of the tailgate... the previous-previous owner's 'door handle'. Unfortunately the tailgate handle is broken (another thing for the list), so the PPO tied a nylon strap to both of the tailgate latch linkages, then pulled them open with the strap. You can see the strap in the photo of the rear of the pig. It's dangling right across the bumper. I also discovered why the tailgate window switch wasn't working, because the ground wire had popped off of it's pad on the switch. So I rebuilt the switch, resoldered the wire, and it feels like new.
I gave the tailgate a good wire brushing and aside from being a little pitted, the tailgate steel is in great shape without any rot.
I poked around under the hood a bit too. The carb is a Carter, though I'm not sure what model yet. I found a sticker on the inner fender right above the Advance Adapter sticker that says "Jeep Conversions, Sacramento, CA", along with a phone number and address, so it appears that the V-8 conversion was 'professionally' done. That gives me hope that the conversion was done correctly, and there won't be any scares as I go through the drivetrain.
One odd thing is that the current Delco Remy alternator that's attached to the engine has it's fan fins pointing leftward as well, which means that either my definition of clockwise is all bass-ackwards, or for some odd reason there's already a counter-clockwise alternator on my clockwise drivetrain. Weird...
I then pulled some more of the headliner out, and the insulation too, and about that time it was time to get ready for work.
All in all, it was a pretty productive day.
Looking good , would not just take the fenders off.
Lou
Lou
- Thread starter
- #25
For the final finishing, I plan on taking apart the whole front end, so both fenders will come off at that point. I mainly am leaving them on for the time being so that they are held fairly straight by their attachments to the body, and once I get a piece tacked back in, I'll pull the fender and finish welding her up, and painting, etc.
At least that's what I think you meant?
At least that's what I think you meant?
I'm a dumb ass....... I should have said (why don't you just take off the fenders)
Lou
Lou
- Thread starter
- #27
LOL.
That's okay Lou, I knew what you meant (for the most part).
Well, I scored pretty good at the wrecking yard today. I was looking for an alternator pulley to convert the Nippondenso 120A alt to a V-belt from a 5-rib serpentine when I found something even better... a waterpump and crank pulley with two v-belt slots and a 5-point serpentine in the middle. It was on an early 80's Chevy full size truck. I was able to get the water pump pulley without too much effort, but the crank pulley bolts were on pretty tight and wrenching on them only succeeded in turning the crank.
So I'm going back today with a tank of compressed air and my impact gun and that puppy is coming off.
I also picked up some body moulding for the door sills off of a 96 4Runner. It was mainly an experiment, but I found that the front door moulding will fit both the front and rear door sills, but the rear door moulding won't fit either of them (it's a bit too short). The front door moulding is about 3" too long, so I'm going to clip it where it will run under the lower sill panel (the aluminum piece that screws to the floor).
The beauty of this is that with a thicker body moulding foam, you can eliminate having to weatherstrip the door, pretty much the same way most vehicles are done nowadays. It appears to seal really well too, and as you shut the door you can see it compressing all the way around... of course we'll have to see how it stands up to the water and wind test.
I ended up going back to the wrecking yard and picking up some more body moulding from a T100 and also another piece from an early 90's GMC Sierra pickup (IIRC). I figured at $5 per door it was worth it to experiment.
Also, as I was doing searches on weatherstripping for the tailgate and rear window, I saw somebody mention that they thought the weatherstripping off of a late-model 4Runner would work, but I can confidently say that it won't. It's much too wide in the window channel, so by the time you get it pressed in, there's nowhere for the window to slide into. Plus it has this weird little bulge down near the ends on the bottom that doesn't fit into the channel right.
I'm heading out here in a bit to go on another treasure seeking expedition, so I'll report back later this evening with pix.
I also started doing some welding on the FJ55 last night, closing up the holes and welding the cracks from the gas can holder. I'll get some pix of that too.
That's okay Lou, I knew what you meant (for the most part).
Well, I scored pretty good at the wrecking yard today. I was looking for an alternator pulley to convert the Nippondenso 120A alt to a V-belt from a 5-rib serpentine when I found something even better... a waterpump and crank pulley with two v-belt slots and a 5-point serpentine in the middle. It was on an early 80's Chevy full size truck. I was able to get the water pump pulley without too much effort, but the crank pulley bolts were on pretty tight and wrenching on them only succeeded in turning the crank.
So I'm going back today with a tank of compressed air and my impact gun and that puppy is coming off.
I also picked up some body moulding for the door sills off of a 96 4Runner. It was mainly an experiment, but I found that the front door moulding will fit both the front and rear door sills, but the rear door moulding won't fit either of them (it's a bit too short). The front door moulding is about 3" too long, so I'm going to clip it where it will run under the lower sill panel (the aluminum piece that screws to the floor).
The beauty of this is that with a thicker body moulding foam, you can eliminate having to weatherstrip the door, pretty much the same way most vehicles are done nowadays. It appears to seal really well too, and as you shut the door you can see it compressing all the way around... of course we'll have to see how it stands up to the water and wind test.
I ended up going back to the wrecking yard and picking up some more body moulding from a T100 and also another piece from an early 90's GMC Sierra pickup (IIRC). I figured at $5 per door it was worth it to experiment.
Also, as I was doing searches on weatherstripping for the tailgate and rear window, I saw somebody mention that they thought the weatherstripping off of a late-model 4Runner would work, but I can confidently say that it won't. It's much too wide in the window channel, so by the time you get it pressed in, there's nowhere for the window to slide into. Plus it has this weird little bulge down near the ends on the bottom that doesn't fit into the channel right.
I'm heading out here in a bit to go on another treasure seeking expedition, so I'll report back later this evening with pix.
I also started doing some welding on the FJ55 last night, closing up the holes and welding the cracks from the gas can holder. I'll get some pix of that too.
- Thread starter
- #28
Another productive day at the wrecking yard today.
Here's the spoils for the past couple days.
The crank and water pump pulleys:
A GM Saginaw power steering box out of a GMC Safari (the same as a Chevy Astro Van).
I'm going to do my steering like Wayneraintree's, since I have plenty of room up front between the SB 283 and the radiator and the GMC box was available, whereas the Scout is not.
I'm also going to upgrade the main fuse panel:
I also picked up an alternator bracket that I can modify to fit the engine (hopefully). The unfortunate part of having the 1965 SB 283 is the fact that it's got 'camel hump' heads, with no accessory attachment blocks.
And here's a shot of my 120A alternator. I think it'll look a lot better than the Delco Remy that's in there now, which is pretty utilitarian.
Gotta run for now, have to start cleaning stuff up and doing more research on the steering conversion.
Here's the spoils for the past couple days.
The crank and water pump pulleys:
A GM Saginaw power steering box out of a GMC Safari (the same as a Chevy Astro Van).
I'm going to do my steering like Wayneraintree's, since I have plenty of room up front between the SB 283 and the radiator and the GMC box was available, whereas the Scout is not.
I'm also going to upgrade the main fuse panel:
I also picked up an alternator bracket that I can modify to fit the engine (hopefully). The unfortunate part of having the 1965 SB 283 is the fact that it's got 'camel hump' heads, with no accessory attachment blocks.
And here's a shot of my 120A alternator. I think it'll look a lot better than the Delco Remy that's in there now, which is pretty utilitarian.
Gotta run for now, have to start cleaning stuff up and doing more research on the steering conversion.
- Thread starter
- #29
Another productive day at the pick and pull (they're getting to know me by name over there).
Found my PS pump in an 89 Dodge Ramcharger pickup, along with the bracket, though it's not on it right now (cleaning it up). Also another pic of my steering box now that I had a chance to clean the engine oil and road grime off of it. It came out of an 86 GMC Safari (I didn't remember the year before). I got lucky getting the PS box when I did, because when I went back today, they were prepping it for the crusher. Also I picked up the tranny cooler and I'm going to flush it out and use it for cooling the power steering, for those heavy off-road days. It came off of an 83 Chevy Van 20.
The nice thing about the steering pump is that it's also fairly cheap to replace... less than $50 at Kragen, and you can get a rebuild kit for it for $15. It also came off of a monster pickup truck so it should have more than enough pumping power to keep the front end of the pig moving.
That's about it for today. I gotta work tonight so I didn't get to spend the whole day there like I usually do.
My next trip will probably be for seatbelts and radiator hoses (hoses just for testing... will be replaced with new ones once I find out what fits from what vehicle).
Found my PS pump in an 89 Dodge Ramcharger pickup, along with the bracket, though it's not on it right now (cleaning it up). Also another pic of my steering box now that I had a chance to clean the engine oil and road grime off of it. It came out of an 86 GMC Safari (I didn't remember the year before). I got lucky getting the PS box when I did, because when I went back today, they were prepping it for the crusher. Also I picked up the tranny cooler and I'm going to flush it out and use it for cooling the power steering, for those heavy off-road days. It came off of an 83 Chevy Van 20.
The nice thing about the steering pump is that it's also fairly cheap to replace... less than $50 at Kragen, and you can get a rebuild kit for it for $15. It also came off of a monster pickup truck so it should have more than enough pumping power to keep the front end of the pig moving.
That's about it for today. I gotta work tonight so I didn't get to spend the whole day there like I usually do.
My next trip will probably be for seatbelts and radiator hoses (hoses just for testing... will be replaced with new ones once I find out what fits from what vehicle).
- Thread starter
- #30
Well, I finally bombed the pig today.
I'm unsure as to the effectiveness of the fog, since I found one spider in the throes of death, and another that ran away from my screwdriver... so I guess it was a 50% success, based on my sample (neither were black widows, though).
I got a bunch of stuff done today, though, but it still seems like hardly a dent in the list of what still needs to be done, but I'm getting there.
I did find out that I'm going to need a different water pump when I test-fit the new pulley. Mine's too short (I need the long pump), and the stud pattern is too narrow where the pulley bolts on. I was already looking to replace the pump since the ones on newer engines have more pads for bolting accessory brackets.
The crank pulley however, lined up fine, though the ring in the middle that fits inside the harmonic balancer needs to be shaved down a bit.
I test-fit the Taurus fan, fluid cooler, PS pump, and alternator, and everything looks like it should fit well. I just need to fab some brackets once I get the new water pump.
One question, though... how do you get the front skid plate off? (Please don't say "undo the bolts" ).
Also, is it just me, or is the front skid plate pointless? All your steering gear sits below it, and it's right in front of the axle, so the chances of it 'skidding' or 'protecting' are dubious, at best.
I'm unsure as to the effectiveness of the fog, since I found one spider in the throes of death, and another that ran away from my screwdriver... so I guess it was a 50% success, based on my sample (neither were black widows, though).
I got a bunch of stuff done today, though, but it still seems like hardly a dent in the list of what still needs to be done, but I'm getting there.
I did find out that I'm going to need a different water pump when I test-fit the new pulley. Mine's too short (I need the long pump), and the stud pattern is too narrow where the pulley bolts on. I was already looking to replace the pump since the ones on newer engines have more pads for bolting accessory brackets.
The crank pulley however, lined up fine, though the ring in the middle that fits inside the harmonic balancer needs to be shaved down a bit.
I test-fit the Taurus fan, fluid cooler, PS pump, and alternator, and everything looks like it should fit well. I just need to fab some brackets once I get the new water pump.
One question, though... how do you get the front skid plate off? (Please don't say "undo the bolts"
).Also, is it just me, or is the front skid plate pointless? All your steering gear sits below it, and it's right in front of the axle, so the chances of it 'skidding' or 'protecting' are dubious, at best.
congrats on the pig dood, and nice scores on all the partyard parts.
my front skidplate comes off with 6 (4?) bolts thats it. i think it does a good job of keepeing crap like rocks out of that area when hi speeding on dirt, it also does a pretty good job keeping out sticks during water crossings. i have also kept the side skidplate in its place (covers the starter and dizzy side of the original engine)
my front skidplate comes off with 6 (4?) bolts thats it. i think it does a good job of keepeing crap like rocks out of that area when hi speeding on dirt, it also does a pretty good job keeping out sticks during water crossings. i have also kept the side skidplate in its place (covers the starter and dizzy side of the original engine)
- Thread starter
- #32
Thanks for the info Rhino.
Did you need to remove the steering stabilizer(s) before removing the skid plate? I'm mainly trying to figure out how to finagle it out of position once I get the bolts removed.
The steering is coming off anyway for the PS conversion, so I guess I can just pull it off once I get the chassis out from under the body.
Well, spent another long day at the wrecking yard yesterday (about 5 hours), but I came away with a complete A/C from a late 70's or early 80's Toyota mini pickup, and five complete seat belts (four shoulder belts and one lap belt, for rear center).
The A/C system:
Close-up of A/C switch:
Snake pile of seatbelts:
The seat belts are all Bendix from various Chrysler and Ford vehicles. The rear shoulder belts came out of a Jeep Cherokee, since they had the extension that connects to the roof to reposition the belt further forward (the rear holes in the piggie are pretty far back for the shoulder harness). The front belts are a combination out of a Jeep Cherokee and a Ford Ranger extracab (the clips are from the rear jump seat belts). I also picked up a retractable lap belt from the same Ranger jump seats (in the black box on the left), and I'm going to see if I can get it to work in the rear center position... I figure it would be nicer not having the center lap belt always dangling about and getting in the way. I may have to recess a small section of the floor so that the seat will still fold down, but I picked up a regular center belt as well in case I decide I want to take the easy way out.
I got lucky that the guy at the counter at the wrecking yard was in a good mood, because normally they charge $10 per seat belt piece, but since I'm there a lot and I played stupid, he charged me $10 per complete belt, and saved me a chunk of change.
Did you need to remove the steering stabilizer(s) before removing the skid plate? I'm mainly trying to figure out how to finagle it out of position once I get the bolts removed.
The steering is coming off anyway for the PS conversion, so I guess I can just pull it off once I get the chassis out from under the body.
Well, spent another long day at the wrecking yard yesterday (about 5 hours), but I came away with a complete A/C from a late 70's or early 80's Toyota mini pickup, and five complete seat belts (four shoulder belts and one lap belt, for rear center).
The A/C system:
Close-up of A/C switch:
Snake pile of seatbelts:
The seat belts are all Bendix from various Chrysler and Ford vehicles. The rear shoulder belts came out of a Jeep Cherokee, since they had the extension that connects to the roof to reposition the belt further forward (the rear holes in the piggie are pretty far back for the shoulder harness). The front belts are a combination out of a Jeep Cherokee and a Ford Ranger extracab (the clips are from the rear jump seat belts). I also picked up a retractable lap belt from the same Ranger jump seats (in the black box on the left), and I'm going to see if I can get it to work in the rear center position... I figure it would be nicer not having the center lap belt always dangling about and getting in the way. I may have to recess a small section of the floor so that the seat will still fold down, but I picked up a regular center belt as well in case I decide I want to take the easy way out.
I got lucky that the guy at the counter at the wrecking yard was in a good mood, because normally they charge $10 per seat belt piece, but since I'm there a lot and I played stupid, he charged me $10 per complete belt, and saved me a chunk of change.
- Thread starter
- #33
Time for another update.
Finally got around to taking off the fenders, though I'll probably wait to take off the hood and inner fenders once the rainy season is over... if I can wait that long.
I think only three of the 10mm bolts survived removing the fenders, so a 10mm tap is going to be on the short list of tools I still need.
Not too much rust under there, and aside from a spot where battery acid ate through the metal on the right inner fender, there's no rot.
Got the interior just about gutted, though it's got some stuff stashed in it right now to get it in out of the rain that came through the other night.
The above photo is one I snagged from ebay and altered to reflect the color scheme I'm considering for the piggie once I get it back together... basically a khaki tan and khaki green two-tone. I'm looking for a retro-safari look, and something that's a bit different than white/color. The grill and headlight trim, along with the front fender vent covers will be painted pewter/black.
That's about it for now... the mosquitos got way too hungry for me to keep going tonight.
Finally got around to taking off the fenders, though I'll probably wait to take off the hood and inner fenders once the rainy season is over... if I can wait that long.
I think only three of the 10mm bolts survived removing the fenders, so a 10mm tap is going to be on the short list of tools I still need.
Not too much rust under there, and aside from a spot where battery acid ate through the metal on the right inner fender, there's no rot.
Got the interior just about gutted, though it's got some stuff stashed in it right now to get it in out of the rain that came through the other night.
The above photo is one I snagged from ebay and altered to reflect the color scheme I'm considering for the piggie once I get it back together... basically a khaki tan and khaki green two-tone. I'm looking for a retro-safari look, and something that's a bit different than white/color. The grill and headlight trim, along with the front fender vent covers will be painted pewter/black.
That's about it for now... the mosquitos got way too hungry for me to keep going tonight.
Hey David, I really like that color combo
Lou
Lou
- Thread starter
- #35
Thanks Lou.
I knew I had hit on something when even my wife said "That isn't too bad." That's as close to an as agreement as you can get.
One other thing I'm considering, is casting the Landcruiser emblems in Aluminum. I've been reading up on sand casting, and have a plentiful supply of aluminum cans. I'm still trying to decide if I'll also want to cast the attachment pins, or if I'll just drill/tap the holes and use screws. Recycling at it's finest.
Unfortunately I work all day today, so I probably won't get to the piggie until a bit later tonight, and by then the mosquitos will be out in full force again... looks like it's time to find the Off!
I knew I had hit on something when even my wife said "That isn't too bad." That's as close to an as agreement as you can get.
One other thing I'm considering, is casting the Landcruiser emblems in Aluminum. I've been reading up on sand casting, and have a plentiful supply of aluminum cans. I'm still trying to decide if I'll also want to cast the attachment pins, or if I'll just drill/tap the holes and use screws. Recycling at it's finest.
Unfortunately I work all day today, so I probably won't get to the piggie until a bit later tonight, and by then the mosquitos will be out in full force again... looks like it's time to find the Off!
Do you think she would mind if I painted my 55 like your's? I'm on the east coast so its not like she have to see it around town. If you find that color combo and want to share the color codes, please include me. Its still a little cool for those flying invisible little sh.ts here in VA. but I feel your pain!!!!
Lou
Lou
David this is close
Lou
Lou
The 55 group must think a lot alike.... I called TLC about the colors on that exact 45, before I started my 55 project. I wanted to get the paint codes from them, and they told me that it was a custom color and that they didn't have the paint codes. Someone else might have better luck.
Ryan.
Ryan.
- Thread starter
- #39
You're welcome to paint your rig any color you like... actually it would be kinda cool to run into each other sometime in the future and have twin pigs. Kinda like meeting that 'twin' that we all have somewhere out there in the world.
That color on the FJ45LV is pretty dang close... mainly there's more yellow in the green in my version, versus orange, which makes it more brown on the 45 (can you tell I was an artist in a past life?)
Once I select colors I'll definitely make sure to post the codes. It'll most likely be a PPG paint (I've always liked their stuff), but I'm sure that there'll be a way to cross-reference the color codes to other paints.
The thing I like most about the color combination is that it's still two-tone, but with earth tones that are more timeless. It's retro, but at the same time contemporary. That's actually what I like most about the FJ55, it's style is 70's, but at the same time it's body lines haven't aged that badly compared to other vehicles of the same era. Toyota engineers knew what they were doing when they designed the Landcruiser.
Didn't get a thing done tonight. I had to work late, and the mosquitos were pretty bad once I got out there. Got some of the insulation off the ceiling vacuumed up that I scraped off yesterday, but that was it. The mosquitos wouldn't be so bad if it weren't for all the water-bearing containers in the blackberry bushes on the property across our fence. It's a huge mosquito breeding ground about 20 feet from where I get to do much of my restoration. Ain't I lucky?
Thankfully we don't have rain for about 7 months out of the year, so it'll dry up in a month or two.
That color on the FJ45LV is pretty dang close... mainly there's more yellow in the green in my version, versus orange, which makes it more brown on the 45 (can you tell I was an artist in a past life?)
Once I select colors I'll definitely make sure to post the codes. It'll most likely be a PPG paint (I've always liked their stuff), but I'm sure that there'll be a way to cross-reference the color codes to other paints.
The thing I like most about the color combination is that it's still two-tone, but with earth tones that are more timeless. It's retro, but at the same time contemporary. That's actually what I like most about the FJ55, it's style is 70's, but at the same time it's body lines haven't aged that badly compared to other vehicles of the same era. Toyota engineers knew what they were doing when they designed the Landcruiser.
Didn't get a thing done tonight. I had to work late, and the mosquitos were pretty bad once I got out there. Got some of the insulation off the ceiling vacuumed up that I scraped off yesterday, but that was it. The mosquitos wouldn't be so bad if it weren't for all the water-bearing containers in the blackberry bushes on the property across our fence. It's a huge mosquito breeding ground about 20 feet from where I get to do much of my restoration. Ain't I lucky?
Thankfully we don't have rain for about 7 months out of the year, so it'll dry up in a month or two.
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David that is killer man.. Also, huge junk yard scores! I hope you don't mind, I plan on poaching your idea for the fuse and relay blocks, those are just killer! My plan for the 10mm nuts that break off when removing fenders is cut them off, clean up, and weld in some 12mm nuts to prevent future rusting/breaking.. 