Changed thermostat, petcock, and coolant two weeks ago. ( Didn't burp). No problem at all. Changed oil this weekend, drove all weekend. Let her rest Monday and Tuesday, go outside to put my mirrors back on her and notice a dinner plate size of fluid on the ground. After inspection I noticed it was dripping down the drive belt. I opened the radiator cap and coolant popped out about two inches high. I performed a burp of the coolant system. The overflow tank stays around the low line. Was not burping it the problem? Should I look in other areas?
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two weeks ago? so you have been driving around? The temp gauge is reading normal when your driving?
If your thermostat has not opened and your motor is not full of coolant this would cause vapor pressure to push back coolant thru the bottom hose in the radiator causing pressure and coolant to come flying out when you open the radiator. You should also have a cold radiator and the motor would overheat.
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- #4
Yes. Drive it typically three days a week. Temp gauge goes up to about 1/4 up which is typical since changing new thermostat. Prior to that it never left cold. Hester is hot, radiator is hot, and upper hose gets hot.
It may be the water pump, if you look from the I underside, look for coolent coming out of the weep hole.
And/or go back and check your hose clamps.
There are also just a ton of cooling/heater hoses that could be leaking.
And/or go back and check your hose clamps.
There are also just a ton of cooling/heater hoses that could be leaking.
This....
Coolant should not just "spring" out like that, especially after being COLD. If they system were needing to be burped you would hear a noise just behind the heater controls that sounds like mice scrambling on newspapers (best way I can describe). The sound goes away after a short bit as the system moves coolant throughout and moves the air bubble around. Yours sounds more like you may be having issues elsewhere...
Any idea on how old the water pump is?
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- #7
No. I don't know. I had it inspected and they didn't mention it needing to be replaced.
As above, check your hose clamps and any places you touched while changing the thermostat and petcock. I have chased down coolant leaks only to find they were simple things like that. And keep in mind that where a puddle ends up on the ground is not always directly below where it originates... liquids can take long, strange paths from a leak to the ground.
For example, my upper coolant hose was leaking slightly at the radiator connection. The drip "presented" itself way down at the radiator drain plug, which is of course where I thought the problem was. Pulled the drain plug, changed it, etc, etc and got annoyed until I chased the drip up. Problem was just a slightly loose hose clamp up top.
For example, my upper coolant hose was leaking slightly at the radiator connection. The drip "presented" itself way down at the radiator drain plug, which is of course where I thought the problem was. Pulled the drain plug, changed it, etc, etc and got annoyed until I chased the drip up. Problem was just a slightly loose hose clamp up top.
had a radiator in a 40 that would only leak(maybe a teaspoon) after it was parked overnight and it was below 40deg, did this for a few years. I would guess the metal(or brass) contacted when cold just enough to drip.
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- #10
I'll check everything because it is on the belts. No puddle at all today. I haven't driven it today. Just strange how it took two weeks. I'll report back.
you have a leak...need to find the source. Clean off the engine and then pressure test system if possible, otherwise start looking for source of leaks. If your hoses have never been changed .....start there. Otherwise if leak started after your work...go back and ensure what you did was correct and you left nothing loose or unsealed.
Do what Elbert says, no need to guess at what is the issue.
Go to HF & purchase a pressure tester. Pump it up and you will immediately find your leak. Once identified, it will be easy enough to fix.
John
Go to HF & purchase a pressure tester. Pump it up and you will immediately find your leak. Once identified, it will be easy enough to fix.
John
Agreed..... Also look at the bottom of the oil pan... does it look wet? Are there any drips? If so can you see what it looks like? (oil drip vs. coolant). I recently rebuilt the top end of my 2F because I was having a weird heating issue where the truck would get up to 3/4 hot or just below the red line but never actually cross. Ended up testing positive for exhaust gas in the coolant (small headgasket leak). However, I do remember months beforehand hearing a sound like a bearing going out, would only happen on very rare occasions but could never pinpoint the sound. I do remember there being coolant drips on the underside of the oilpan and attributed it to some of the old original hoses. These got replaced, but while I was in there I replaced the waterpump with a new OEM. After everything was back together my buddy found my old waterpump and told me that when he tried to spin it (I wasn't there) that he heard a grinding coming from it. Ends up that all of this was possibly because my waterpump was taking a slow death.
Sort version, if you don't know that age of it then I would go ahead and replaced... cost through Onur is like $80 I think. So that is a REALLY good saver there... oh and when you do get ALL the necessary hoses from Onur as well to save yourself some hunting at the LAPS.
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- #15
Thanks for the tips. I'm a newbie. What is Onur and LAPS?
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- #18
Thanks. His name has been giving to me about a key cylinder.
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- #19
Wouldn't hurt to try that.