Weber 38 DGAS : info + settings + tuning

[ErikinSC]

WOW! Even more great info from a great mud mind ! Thank you @Weber Sarge !

 

[JohnnyC]

I guess i am the odd ball

you do know exactly what your talking about Sarge!

i agree about the lack of air... i do like the filter itself (or maybe i got a Wednesday built one) this is the original one from when i 1st bought the weber.... i have cleaned it many times... but... not all the time.

people dont clean them correctly and dont dry and oil them correctly

father being an old school guy worked on and drove many oil bath air cleaner rigs... he would talk till your ears bleed telling me to not clean it so much and it will filter better... probably does filter better but at a cost of less air flow i suppose... but.... been running it 20 years... sooo

I honestly dont think my cruiser cares about the less air flow... he's too simple and stupid to care

kinda like the grandpa who knows smoking is bad .... continues to smoke and lives well into his 90's


with that all said I have been toying with designs to lift the area to the top of the throat incorporating a vac/operated hot air valve... but.... like most things its pushed to the side and i just live with the crappy air cleaner design LOL

 

[Weber Sarge]

My complaint about the gauze is it's thickness and inability to filter the air properly - paper elements just work better as I hate digging out oily , fine particles from air circuits . Those fine particles are what wears out piston rings as well , not a good thing . Couple that with the design of the filter housing and the thing is a joke - same as those junk mounting plates and linkage/cable adapters to make up the install kit . This is all Redline's doing from years ago and they took a great number of short cuts to make money . Go look at some of the Fiat engines and such with Weber factory carbs - none will look like the aftermarket kits and all of them use a good , proper air filter system that doesn't restrict .
Sarge

 

[Boaf 32]

My set up :

'74 FJ40 with a replacement 2F (sn 882263) and what I was told is the F head (steel valve cover). I have a stock exhaust header and intake, but the truck has been de-smogged. I have a Weber 38/38 with cable throttle and gas pedle setup (from TPI - installed by the PO). Non USA vacuum advance distributor, points & condenser, and an aftermarket coil.

I have a mechanical fuel pump, 4psi O/P with a @Weber Sarge suggested CJ style 'vented' inline fuel filter, just before the carb :

View attachment 1083898

And I have the stock heat shield installed, less the insulator. I have a 2 piece aluminum mounting bracket for the weber, and Im holding 20in of vacuum.

View attachment 1083897

I am using a Toyota Non-USA vacumm advance dizzy, new points, condenser and rotor.... timing bullet is on the top side of the mark (@ 8* BTDC) on the flywheel window.

Ive been having tuning issues - so I ordered a jet kit from Redline. I called Redline and because I am Sea Level, and have HIGH HUMIDITY, I asked for a baseline of which jets I should be running. They suggested a 50 or 55 Idle jet, Leave the Main Jets alone (I will ensure they are still 150's and he thought I might need to increase my Air Corrector from (it came with a 170) to the 190, 200 or even a 210 due to the high humidity.

I've got the carb idling at 525 RPM today, and going to test drive it and make some changes over the weekend.

What have you got your Weber 38 set up with for Jets - and Why?

Great thread. I have struggled with what the Previous Owner installed (32 36 Weber) in my 72 LC.

The issue: Black sooty condensation out the exhaust , very characteristic of too rich a mixture.
What I've done:

1. Loosened the Idle adjustment to not touch,
2. Dialed the mixture screw all the way in (gently) and opened it 1/4 turn
3. Adjust 1/4 turn at a time and did not exceed 2 and have a smooth idle.

Still black soot. My Valve cover vents into the air cleaner base (and I see condensation coming out of it). Disconnected the Valve Cover (PCV) from the air cleaner, and the exhaust is still black soot.

Not trusting the PO or Carb, I removed it after it cooled of for an hour. Pulled the carb out and there was gas puddled in the Intake under the Carb.
Question: Is that normal??? Thinking of changing out the Carb after conformation of the mechanical fuel pressure.

Lastly, One thing I will check when I am back, I see in the photo a fuel return to the tank. I do not believe I have one. Should I?

Thanks,

Boaf

 

[ErikinSC]

Thanks @Boaf 32 ,

Start with the timing. Check the Dizzy - Points and condensor or a @Trollhole electronic dizzy will remove some of your variables. Check the plugs, replace and set the gap - they are CHEAP. Get those things in order first. It will AMAZE you when you set up your truck.

My '74 had dual fuel rails, which meant a provision for a fuel return. I checked the fuel pump even though I had a copy of the receipt, and used the manual fill a cup method to verify OutPut. Worked like a champ. I installed the bypass, per @Weber Sarge suggestion, to ensure I did not have too much fuel pressure. I have a Weber 38 (and a Trollhole's Carb that needs to be installed). NOt sure how the Weber 32/36 is outfitted for fuel.

You'll have to check your passenger side frame and fuel tank to see if you have a provision for a fuel return.

As far as I know, you should not have so much fuel that there is actual standing fuel in the intake. The fuel should be atomized in the carb, and traveling thru the intake as a mist..... Unless I am mistaken.

I need to swap out my Weber for the THC, and report back. Even tuned, the Weber is still running rich, and I have black carbon building up in my exhaust.

Keeping using the search function - pick 2 to 5 keywords, and read, read, read. Then.... Like you did here - respond to a thread and consider 'tagging' the person you want to discuss the topic with. You'll make it personal, and probably make a new friend, too !

Lastly, find your local PA Cruiserheads, get to know them, oh, yeah... And welcome to the madness !

 

[Boaf 32]

Thanks @Boaf 32 ,

Start with the timing. Check the Dizzy - Points and condensor or a @Trollhole electronic dizzy will remove some of your variables. Check the plugs, replace and set the gap - they are CHEAP. Get those things in order first. It will AMAZE you when you set up your truck.

My '74 had dual fuel rails, which meant a provision for a fuel return. I checked the fuel pump even though I had a copy of the receipt, and used the manual fill a cup method to verify OutPut. Worked like a champ. I installed the bypass, per @Weber Sarge suggestion, to ensure I did not have too much fuel pressure. I have a Weber 38 (and a Trollhole's Carb that needs to be installed). NOt sure how the Weber 32/36 is outfitted for fuel.

You'll have to check your passenger side frame and fuel tank to see if you have a provision for a fuel return.

As far as I know, you should not have so much fuel that there is actual standing fuel in the intake. The fuel should be atomized in the carb, and traveling thru the intake as a mist..... Unless I am mistaken.

I need to swap out my Weber for the THC, and report back. Even tuned, the Weber is still running rich, and I have black carbon building up in my exhaust.

Keeping using the search function - pick 2 to 5 keywords, and read, read, read. Then.... Like you did here - respond to a thread and consider 'tagging' the person you want to discuss the topic with. You'll make it personal, and probably make a new friend, too !

Lastly, find your local PA Cruiserheads, get to know them, oh, yeah... And welcome to the madness !

Thank you Eric. Yes on Dizzy timing, Points, Condenser and Plugs, all new. I think I have excess fuel pressure. I close the air fuel mixture all the way (not crushing) and the beast still runs.

Also, brand new fuel tank. the original had a vapor recovery system in it, the new one did not and SOR said it was OK. Hmm.

Thanks,

Boaf

 

[ErikinSC]

I'm no carb guru.... But SEARCH (and attending a HAMOM or TLC event) is your friend. Search Weber + 32 + excess fuel..... Let's see what you find.

 

[Boaf 32]

I'm no carb guru.... But SEARCH (and attending a HAMOM or TLC event) is your friend. Search Weber + 32 + excess fuel..... Let's see what you find.

I will, thanks

 

[Weber Sarge]

I'd be suspect of the float needle - the Viton ones seal up a bit better and can handle pressure a little better than the brass ones . Make certain the float is set correctly for fuel height and max drop - look for the diagrams online on how to measure the float properly without compressing the internal spring - that is critical and a common mistake .

Pay close attention to which float you have - brass or the Nitrofill (plastic) . If you do have the brass one , make sure it's not leaking and full of fuel .

Sarge

 

[Boaf 32]

Thanks Sarge, when I have the carb off, I can disassemble (if needed) and look at the bowl. I had an old mustang with a Holley 650 and the bowl was a problem.

Is there a key with the diagram you added? Not sure I see the adjustments....
Thanks
Boaf

 

[Weber Sarge]

DGV/IDF/DCOE/DCNF/IDE-XE Float Leveling Instructions

That info is all over the net - it's the drawing and orientation of the top cover when measuring the float height that is the most important . I set offroad use carbs for no more than 10mm of travel to limit drop settings for higher angles .
Sarge

 

[Boaf 32]

I thank you!

Boaf

 

[Mathew]

Hi Guys,
I have been trawling this forum for guidance on how to get my 2F engine with a weber 38 DGAS to run correctly. I have had the Weber installed for about 9 years and it has been running pretty much without a problem until recently. The truck started spewing black smoke and fouling the plugs. I have tried to make the adjustments suggested but after idling in traffic, it starts missing. Well, this my set up. I have plugged of the carburetor vacuum [tempted to re-open this and reconnect]. I am also running base jets in a much as I live 6000ft above sea level [tempted to change these to 135 main, 190 air and 50 idle as suggested in another thread and rebuild it]. Given that I have truly have never had much success with carb tuning, I am tempted to get an air/fuel gauge [Halmeter AF30 Air Fuel Ratio Gauge - again suggested]. After reading much of the threads, I am open to suggestions as to how I can begin to solve my problem.

 

[JohnnyC]

When was the last time it had a full tuneup?

Cap/rotor plugs pcv points valve adjustment timing

 

[ErikinSC]

^^^ start with the timing.

Then the dizzy (cap, rotor, wires), and replace the plugs....

Wait for @Pin_Head and @Weber Sarge to make add'l suggestions (if not already listed above).

 

[Pin_Head]

It isn't clear what the problem is. Black smoke and misfiring at idle are a little non-specific and vague.

 

[Mathew]

When was the last time it had a full tuneup?

Cap/rotor plugs pcv points valve adjustment timing

Well, I just had new intake valves and valve seals. I am running a DUI distributor with live wires installed more or less at the same time with the carb. I adjusted the valve timing a week ago.

 

[Mathew]

It isn't clear what the problem is. Black smoke and misfiring at idle are a little non-specific and vague.

Well, the truck is running rough particularly after idling in traffic. After I run it at 80kms/h, the running goes back to normal until the next time I idle for a while. I can clarify with specific questions since like I said, I am open to suggestions/questions.

 

[Boaf 32]

Sounds like a Fuel flow or PVC breathing problem. How is the Fuel pressure? Like JohnnC said, PCV?

 

[Mathew]

PVC

I haven't noticed any reduction in pressure but I intend to re-check it again and change the filter as well - thanks.