Tuning after EGR hackjob delete (3 Viewers)

[YukonCruisers]

Starting on a refurb of a 40, the PO has "deleted" the EGR.

Is there a good thread on tuning post delete?

I don't want to get into a debate about reconnecting everything, I know if left alone EGR is fine, I don't think I have all the bits now, so am looking to just tune it up.

Truck itself is in amazing condition, April '75, no bubbling at the rear fenders, rockers in good original condition, no rust through on the floor pans etc. I already did the rear sill to 2x2 replacement, swapped out a broken rear leaf. I have to change the clutch master and will swap in a disk brake axle up front.

 

[bhsdriller]

I didn't do anything to mine just go through a lean drop setup on it and has been fine
Adjust timing with it as well if needed

 

[YukonCruisers]

Ah, maybe it needs a good carb clean or rebuild then. will spray in some cleaners and pump some seafoam through,

thx

 

[bhsdriller]

Also make sure everything is plugged that needs to be and no vac leaks

 

[DesertFJ40]

Screw the egr emissions crap.

To get your Fj40 running good:


Adjust the valves of the engine

Set your timing. The book tells you to set the bb at the "7 degree pointer mark." I push mine a bit more and set it at the edge of the window as I'm advancing it. So I think thats like 10mmHg

Get a vaccum advance distributor and hook that up. There's people here that will tell you "you need a special ported carb" to connect it. If you don't have a ported carb (like me and don't want to spend a lot of money to have someone do it for you), you can connect it to manifold vaccum. Theres an old article about a race car driver and he goes into the "science". Anyway, manifold vaccum was the best in his experience. Ive had good experience as well, zero issue. Others will say you're going against the "Toyota gods".

If you can, also get an earlier style carb. Suposedly the 1974 one is the best one. But any of the double barrel carbs from the early 70s are good. They got mechaniccal secondaries instead of vacuum acuated ones.

If you get an early carb, take off all that vaccum egr stuff off. Choke breaker, I forget what else. It's not needed.

you might need to get slightly larger carb jets depending on your elevation. Today's gas sucks and the original jets are ussualy too lean for today's gas. The only way to get around this is to use ethenol free gas. Then the carb works as it should. It's an easy fix to do if you decide to change out the jets

Set your idle screw either by ear or vaccum gauge. You can connect to the highest vaccum port and change your idle and see at what point you get the highest reading. If you do it by ear, turn the screw in so it sounds like it's about to die. Then back it off until it runs good. Then keep backing it off until it start to run rough in the other direction. I think it starts to "pop" and you won't notice any further increase I rpm once you reach a certain point. Zero in on the adjustment until it runs as smooth as you can possibly get.


Don't forget to cap off any unused vaccum ports as well. There should be one at your distributor, and a few around the carb, and any that were ocne connected to you egr

That should be it :]

 

[charliemeyer007]

I like straight mechanical advance, let the rpm of the engine determine the advance. +1 for setting the timing just going out the window in the summer - try that in the winter and it will kick back and eat the starter, maybe more if you aren't lucky.

 

[dmaddox]

My first thought to ask was....how is it running now? What are the symptoms, behaviors, etc? To be able to understand what direction to go.