Water Pump / Fan Clutch / Fan Wobble (1 Viewer)

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Aug 24, 2023
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Location
Madison, Ms
I just did an engine swap same 2uz on my 100 series and I replaced the water pump and fan clutch when I did it ~2,500 miles ago and I just replaced my power steering pump and after I did that I cranked it and popped the hood to make sure everything was good, and I realized there was a slight knocking sound coming from the fan and or clutch or water pump pulley and a wobble, (the fan was not hitting anything when I spun it by hand) even though I just replaced the clutch and pump, any ideas what it could be? Or how should I diagnose it?
 
Tiz the season for fan bracket failures. If the shaft can be wobbled or is making noise, the bracket bearing assembly must be replaced.

1703488250740.png
 
Video needs to be longer, focusing on large pulley fan belts is on and fan clutch attached to.

Fan bracket should never wobble, nor make any sound. I could not see fan bracket wobble, in your video. I'd watch it closely for a longer period. Then use a mechanics stethoscope, placed on fan bracket rear of pulley. Which can be done with care, while engine running. Further inspection is done with drive belt off, grabbing pulley and check for any radial play or sound while spinning.

Here's a very apparent bad fan bracket bearing. Watch close and you'll see pulley belts on, jump along with fan clutch attached to it.
 
Video needs to be longer, focusing on large pulley fan belts is on and fan clutch attached to.

Fan bracket should never wobble, nor make any sound. I could not see fan bracket wobble, in your video. I'd watch it closely for a longer period. Then use a mechanics stethoscope, placed on fan bracket rear of pulley. Which can be done with care, while engine running. Further inspection is done with drive belt off, grabbing pulley and check for any radial play or sound while spinning.

Here's a very apparent bad fan bracket bearing. Watch close and you'll see pulley belts on, jump along with fan clutch attached to it.

Just noticed my fan is wobbling not too dissimilar from the video... not quite as extreme, but extreme enough that I VERY quickly ran over and shut the ignition off when I noticed it...

hoping it's something I can swap out without having basically do a timing belt job (and so begins the research)
 
To be clear: Fan is attached to fan clutch. The fan clutch is attached to fan bracket, with a pulley in-between the two. You can not actually see the fan bracket, in above video. But you can see the pulley belt rides on, where fan clutch attaches to fan bracket.

Fan and the fan clutch itself, may wobble a bit or appear to, until fully warmed up. Watch the video in post #4 very close. Focus on the pulley back of fan/fan clutch, that the belt is riding on. You'll see pulley and belt jump/wobble. That pulley should never wobble at all. It's wobble, is 98% of the time, a failing fan bracket. 2% of the time, loose nuts (4) on studs (4) of fan bracket. Those 4 nuts hold, fan clutch & pulley to fan bracket.

How I check fan bracket, while in vehicle.
1) Visually, as seen in video.
2) Sound. They should run silent. Since we've have belt noise and other bearing noise (idler, tensioner, alternator, vane pump, compressor). I use a mechanic stethoscope, place on fan bracket back of pulley/belt area.
3) Grab pulley and feel for any lateral or radial play, with belt and engine off.

During timing belt service, while fan bracket off the vehicle. I check for sound, play and look for any oil at back seal. Any oil coming from seal, I replace fan bracket. Even if feels and sounds good.

Toyota Aisin fan bracket.
IMG_3140.JPEG

IMG_3144.JPEG

Aisin fan bracket.
Wheel bearing DS new 079.JPG

Wheel bearing DS new 082.JPG

I replace, even when oil just beginning to weep from sealed bearing of fan bracket. Dust, sticks to oily surface. Not worth, seeing if can make to next timing belt service. So I replace.
029.JPG
 
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Just noticed my fan is wobbling not too dissimilar from the video... not quite as extreme, but extreme enough that I VERY quickly ran over and shut the ignition off when I noticed it...

hoping it's something I can swap out without having basically do a timing belt job (and so begins the research)

It is possible to replace the fan bracket without removing completely unbolting the AC compressor. Although, the two you do have to remove from the AC compressor are a real pain.

I did have to remove the upper radiator hose (only briefly) to remove the shroud. I was able to replace the fan bracket start to finish in a few hours.
 
The two front bolts passing through AC compressor, really aren't that bad. If you know the trick.

Top one go at from the top. 3/8" breaker bar with short 14mm socket.
Bottom 14mm socket, universal is helpfully, long 3/8" extension, breaker bar. Come up from below one of two paths. The path between R&P and its fluid lines, is the most direct.
2.JPEG


3.JPEG
AC bolt (3).JPG

One can come in from, forward of the crossmember. But more angle getting to bolt. Breaking loose and torqueing in, becomes more difficult.
AC bolt (2).JPG


Tip:
Adding anti-seize to these two side bolt threads, aids in install and future removal. Reduce torque 20% if using least angle (rout over R&P boot) on lubed threads.
Lightly sung other (front) bolts & nuts, to aid in alignment for side bolts. Before torqueing side bolt, sung hard the front bolts & nuts. To fully draw fan bracket into place.
 
The two front bolts passing through AC compressor, really aren't that bad. If you know the trick.

Top one go at from the top. 3/8" breaker bar with short 14mm socket.
Bottom 14mm socket, universal is helpfully, long 3/8" extension, breaker bar. Come up from below one of two paths. The path between R&P and its fluid lines, is the most direct.

One can come in from, forward of the crossmember. But more angle getting to bolt. Breaking loose and torqueing in, becomes more difficult.

Tip:
Adding anti-seize to these two side bolt threads, aids in install and future removal. Reduce torque 20% if using least angle (rout over R&P boot) on lubed threads.
Lightly sung other (front) bolts & nuts, to aid in alignment for side bolts. Before torqueing side bolt, sung hard the front bolts & nuts. To fully draw fan bracket into place.

Awesome photo of that angle next to the inner tie-rod!
 

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