Warn Winch fail (1 Viewer)

[RFB]

OK Im doing my spring rust checking, swapping over etc etc And I pulled out my winch line on my warn VR12S like ive done half a dozen times to clean line and rewrap it on the drum, this time after only a year I noticed the drum and set screw were rusted BAD So I pulled the drum wire wheeled it drilled out the allen head set screw and retapped . When I put the winch back in place on 4x4labs bumper(not fun) I gave it a test fire and a spark tried t jump from the motor of winch to bumper(bad groud) re grounded it and tried again she clicks but no motor. AFTER A YEAR?? rusted to shiite, and motor failing?? The solenoid clicks but motor no go. anyone? I know this isnt a top of the line winch, but its a grand and seems like it shouldnt be rusted and broken already. if you have even seen my rig in person shes clean, I keep it very clean, so I wasnt stoked for this new development

 

[woodsman 44]

Pics?

Im not familiar with that model...can u pull off solenoid cover and inspect...sounds like rusty connections or a bad solenoid?

 

[RFB]

Took winch OFF truck to wire wheel drum and clean up rust on mounts, put it back in and killed it.

 

[RFB]

the motor does nothing and the control clicks as it should, I just cannot imagine doing nothing other reinstalling cooked the motr, Im getting a red winch F this

 

[woodsman 44]

Pull off plastic solenoid cover, check all the connections, clean up if they are rusty..

I would do the same with the 3 wires on motor and see if corrosion is causing no current flow.

 

[RFB]

Ive done all that the cotrol clicks the motor does not turn

 

[Warn Industries]

First off, I'm sorry to see you're having problems with this. I would suggest giving our customer service team a call at 800-543-9276 (M-F, 7am to 4pm PDT). They should be able to assist in getting this working, or direct you to someone who can.

Andy

 

[1MOA]

1. Put the winch in freespool.

2. Disconnect the positive lead from the battery (leave the ground lead attached).

3. Label and disconnect the three cables that run from the control pack to the three posts on the motor.

4. Stamped next to the three posts on the motor will be "A", "F1" and "F2". Run a small jumper wire (5"-6" dead lead, 8 ga. will work just fine) from "A" to "F1" and put power from the battery (jumper cables work good) to "F2". The winch motor should run in one direction at this time.

5. Next, place the jumper wire from "A" to "F2" and put power from the battery to "F1". The winch motor should run in the opposite direction at this time.
If these steps are followed correctly and the motor runs in both directions, the motor is good.


(*Note: if you have a set of modern jumper cables that have side mount type clamp ends, you can use it to jump from F1 and F2 to A. Otherwise you're going to have to make or buy an 8 ga. short jumper. Note also that when you make the final connection you will get a BIG spark. I expected it and still was surprised.)



If the cables and the motor are good, chances are that one or more solenoids are gone. You can spend the time to test them one by one to see which one or two are bad, but you don't want to have to do this more than once

Keep us posted I would like to see what the issue is

 

[RFB]

1. Put the winch in freespool.

2. Disconnect the positive lead from the battery (leave the ground lead attached).

3. Label and disconnect the three cables that run from the control pack to the three posts on the motor.

4. Stamped next to the three posts on the motor will be "A", "F1" and "F2". Run a small jumper wire (5"-6" dead lead, 8 ga. will work just fine) from "A" to "F1" and put power from the battery (jumper cables work good) to "F2". The winch motor should run in one direction at this time.

5. Next, place the jumper wire from "A" to "F2" and put power from the battery to "F1". The winch motor should run in the opposite direction at this time.
If these steps are followed correctly and the motor runs in both directions, the motor is good.


(*Note: if you have a set of modern jumper cables that have side mount type clamp ends, you can use it to jump from F1 and F2 to A. Otherwise you're going to have to make or buy an 8 ga. short jumper. Note also that when you make the final connection you will get a BIG spark. I expected it and still was surprised.)



If the cables and the motor are good, chances are that one or more solenoids are gone. You can spend the time to test them one by one to see which one or two are bad, but you don't want to have to do this more than once

Keep us posted I would like to see what the issue is

im on it Standby

 

[RFB]

1. Put the winch in freespool.

2. Disconnect the positive lead from the battery (leave the ground lead attached).

3. Label and disconnect the three cables that run from the control pack to the three posts on the motor.

4. Stamped next to the three posts on the motor will be "A", "F1" and "F2". Run a small jumper wire (5"-6" dead lead, 8 ga. will work just fine) from "A" to "F1" and put power from the battery (jumper cables work good) to "F2". The winch motor should run in one direction at this time.

5. Next, place the jumper wire from "A" to "F2" and put power from the battery to "F1". The winch motor should run in the opposite direction at this time.
If these steps are followed correctly and the motor runs in both directions, the motor is good.


(*Note: if you have a set of modern jumper cables that have side mount type clamp ends, you can use it to jump from F1 and F2 to A. Otherwise you're going to have to make or buy an 8 ga. short jumper. Note also that when you make the final connection you will get a BIG spark. I expected it and still was surprised.)



If the cables and the motor are good, chances are that one or more solenoids are gone. You can spend the time to test them one by one to see which one or two are bad, but you don't want to have to do this more than once

Keep us posted I would like to see what the issue is

ok followed your directions to a tee, and nothing. this makes NO sense al I did was pull winch to clean up rusty drum and retap the set screw re install and this happens. Also when reassembled it does make clicking from control but motor is dead. @Warn Industries

 

[RFB]

First off, I'm sorry to see you're having problems with this. I would suggest giving our customer service team a call at 800-543-9276 (M-F, 7am to 4pm PDT). They should be able to assist in getting this working, or direct you to someone who can.

Andy

Oct 15, 2017

ORDER TOTAL US $725.00 Order WARN 97035 VR12S 12000lb Winch 12V Hawse Fairlead 90' 3/8 Synthetic Rope View similar items - ORDER DATE Oct 15, 2017View seller's other items - ORDER DATE Oct 15, 2017 More actions - ORDER DATE Oct 15, 2017

1 item sold by cyclehouse10

WARN 97035 VR12S 12000lb Winch 12V Hawse Fairlead 90' 3/8 Synthetic Rope ( 263230529293 ) This user is no longer registered on eBay.

this is when I bought the winch and apparently seller is no longer using ebay So it appears Im stuck here.

 

[1MOA]

That is the warn test procedure to test the winch. Sounds like your motor is dead. What is warn saying warranty or repair wise? I have never looked at their warranty

 

[woodsman 44]

That is the warn test procedure to test the winch. Sounds like your motor is dead. What is warn saying warranty or repair wise? I have never looked at their warranty

I was wondering the same thing...

 

[RFB]

That is the warn test procedure to test the winch. Sounds like your motor is dead. What is warn saying warranty or repair wise? I have never looked at their warranty

I bought it in nov 2017 so Im h=guessing theres no warranty left on motor, Im going to get a red winch form @TRAIL TAILOR Not doin Warn anymore. This was a sign, lol.

 

[White Stripe]

If your using a winch rope rather than cable then you will get rust. Especially if your in Massachusetts. Snow and road salt will get on the spooled rope then melt into it. The rope will hold the corrosive road salt moisture mix like a sponge and not dry out. This will cause rust at a hugely accelerated rate. Unless your next winch is made out of stainless steel, the next winch you buy will also have the same problem.

 

[RFB]

If your using a winch rope rather than cable then you will get rust. Especially if your in Massachusetts. Snow and road salt will get on the spooled rope then melt into it. The rope will hold the corrosive road salt moisture mix like a sponge and not dry out. This will cause rust at a hugely accelerated rate. Unless your next winch is made out of stainless steel, the next winch you buy will also have the same problem.

Yea Im aware, which is why everytime I roll back in used or not, I pull the rope clean it and respool. and Ive been out west almost the entierty of the winte.r

 

[gnob]

Instead of being pissed at Warn, realize you bought a Chinese winch. Its called VR for a reason. My 8274 sits uncovered in the weather for the last 12 years. No issues other than a little corrosion on the terminals.

 

[Pin_Head]

Tap the motor case with a rubber mallet while energizing the motor and see if it takes off. Sometimes the brushes get a little wonky and need help seating.

 

[hiluxjeremy]

Have you disassembled the motor to have a look? Chances are you can bring it back to life yet. Short of a physical issue like a broken brush lead, holder failure or such you're most likely dealing with a corrosion issue inside. A bit of time and some tinkering can probably sort this out.

Single best mod I've found to keep winches alive is to drill and tap the motor housing for a vent hose. Once upon a time I would need to routinely (every couple years) disassemble both front and rear winch motors after the click of death and clean up whatever corrosion had built up. Since doing this I haven't had to once. This includes a rear mount under the bed of the truck with a remote solenoid pack up high.

 

[RFB]

Instead of being pissed at Warn, realize you bought a Chinese winch. Its called VR for a reason. My 8274 sits uncovered in the weather for the last 12 years. No issues other than a little corrosion on the terminals.

Yea Im not actually pissed at WARN. Im shocked that a less than 14month old winch thats been maintaned is dead. the motor replacement is almost 300 bucks Not what sucks it seems that warn would know synthetic rope will rust the drum and not only rust the drum but corrode the set screw to the point it had to be drilled out and re tapped. I bought a WARN because it was a WARN, it wasnt free or cheap. And by simply wheeling and repainting to drum because warn dosent, it somehow caused the terrible ground screw to short and blow the motor. If I were WARN id coat the drum make the ground legit or WARN people that this wich will begin corroding

Tap the motor case with a rubber mallet while energizing the motor and see if it takes off. Sometimes the brushes get a little wonky and need help seating.

I tried, NADA