Voltage regulator questions.

[cruiserboy14]

I recently pulled out my voltage regulator on my 77 cruiser to check if it is working properly, but when I look at the FSM I am confused. There are 2 styles in my book and my regulator has parts of both. What is correct for April of 77?? Is this even an oem regulator? Thanks for any help.

 

[45Dougal]

Looks about right. Open it up and see what you've got inside.
Some are 6 wire, and some are 3 wire. Yours is clearly the latter.

While I'm sure that you can adjust this and make it work, I really don't see the obsession with keeping these in service.
Any alternator from the last 30+ years has a built in solid state regulator which is far superior in every way.
You can even find a solid state external regulator if you really want to.

 

[charliemeyer007]

My 72 still on the OEM alternator. I think back in the 80's I put on a new voltage regulator. I got a spare alternator some years back from rock auto for like $20 delivered (no pulley).

Well if the charging system fails I just going to install a one wire 120A alternator for like $120. Yea a digital voltmeter/usb charger would go too for like $20.

An advantage of not being a purest.

 

[GA Architect]

@cruiserboy14 - An OEM 1977 regulator.
Installed:

Backup:

Solid State option with updated connectors from @ToyotaMatt :

I don't mind parting with one of the solid state units. If you need one, send me a PM.

 

[cruiserboy14]

Wow! @GA Architect is there any difference between the oem or sold state? Besides make up??

 

[GA Architect]

Wow! @GA Architect is there any difference between the oem or sold state? Besides make up??

The OEM VR uses an electromechanical system and the solid state uses resistors and diodes (something like that?)....they are supposed to function the same. Matter of fact, my rig had a solid state VR when I got it. Drove it that way for a while till I started in earnest of a minor renovation/restoration and installing my rebuilt '86 2F engine.

 

[Mark W]

If you are a dedicated old school kinda guy but you still like mods and upgrades...

When I was running my Pig daily, off road and road tripping it too (took the family on a round trip Alaska Highway jaunt)... I used to run duel alternators with factory mechanical regulators. I am sure I could have converted to a GM one wire and put out almost as much power. But I had this stuff on hand. Plus, by carefully adjusting the contacts in the regulators I could tailor their performance a bit. I set the upper voltage limit to just barely over 15 instead of 14.5. This gave me brighter headlights (remember, old school halogen filiment bulbs, not LEDs) and faster heater fan motors too. One alt was designated as the primary and ran all the time and the secondary did not turn on until the voltage dropped to 13V. When it did, they both pushed power.

The redundancy was a big appeal to me. In fact it came in handy on that Alcan run when the primary died and I just continued on my way, no big deal.

Mark...