Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works (3 Viewers)

FJBen

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Also interested in this. I have an '84 FJ40 and there is a high pitch noise coming from the VR. Can anything be done or is it on its way out?

Not sure I have the right answer for you, but I did just order a new VR and brushes. THey should be here this week so I will let you know if that fixes the issue or not.
 
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Feb 19, 2019
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BOISE, ID
Looks like mine is an aftermarket SS unit and I went out to start up and there was nothing...had battery tested and it wouldn't take a charge so replaced it. After installing it was hard to start and keep running (smoking etc) and wouldn't idle. Went to O'reilly and had tested and the VR is bad. It actually ran ok on the way home but still a little rough. My question after all that...would the VR cause those rough running/starting issues or could it be something else? If I run it the way it is until Tuesday when the replacement gets here, will it hurt anything? I typically only drive it a few miles at a time.
 
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Baltimore
Interesting thread. I had an issue with my VR, and during adjustment, I stopped getting any charge at all.

I think it's just a coincidence, because it seems that no amount of bending will get it charge again. So it's probably the alternator.

Edit:

After working on it for another day, I realized that the gaps were out of spec, and fixing that fixed my issue. If you look back at OPs picture here, you can see that the Angle gap and the Point gap will act as a starting point for adjustment (if it's out of spec like mine was). When you depress the spring so that it's touching the top of the coil, the Angle gap should be 0.2, but the Point gap has both an upper and lower limit.

You first make sure the High Speed Point PL2 is in the correct position by bending it so that the Angle gap is at least 0.2mm, and then you bend the Low Speed
Holder PL1, towards or away from PL2 until the Point Gap is 0.25-0.45. Working from there, I was able to get it functional again and subsequently adjust the voltage by bending the Adjusting Arm.
VRpic.PNG


It's still not perfect, but it's pretty damn close. The only thing I seem to have an issue with now is that there is a bit of a swing in current. Sometimes the Ammeter jumps up and down a bit. I suspect it may take a bit more fine tuning to get it right, but I also suspect that it may be a result of wear on the part, so I'm not sure how perfect I can really make it.
 
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OK.. I have read this thread multiple times over the last three days and have learned a lot.. Thank you Rudi and others...
However,,, my problem..
Purchased a 77 FJ55 last year, got her running, driving, even drove out to the pig rally in Arkansas this past year but did a quick turnaround. (Florida).
I wanted to sort out and clean up a couple of wires in the engine compartment, replace a couple of short length non OEM wire installations with OEM wiring I have from other projects. Fun stuff. Truck running great. All lights, switches, blinkers, working. Loom looks unaltered. No worries..
I start by reading all the above info. I have a 77 FJ55 wiring diagram. And I cannot find the voltage regulator.. I know right.. Grins.. but seriously, I was thinking it is in the engine compartment somewhere... USA model. I have followed the loom from start to finish both sides. And under the dash.. Cannot find the darn thing. Cant find a plug that has the wiring for a six plug, four plug, or three wires unattached, or an indication of where it was installed...my loom appears to be virgin unwrapped, except......where the loom comes close to the ignitor. My ignitor and coil have several additional wires on them... my alternator has the three prong, NON IVR, with the white/green wire and the white/black for the ground...coming out of the loom and correctly attached to the Alt... My gauges work, including the charge needle.
My thinking is the VR was originally located in the engine compartment, passenger side, on the firewall close to the coil/ignitor...there are two nuts on the firewall that are vacant/empty, and I'm hoping/thinking. If that is where it is supposed to be, Im thinking a previous owner removed it, and hooked the wiring up to the coil and ignitor, but cut in non OEM wiring.. I dont see the white/green... I don't see the white/black... My next step is to trim back some tape on these non OEM wires to expose what they are attached to. But if the VR is under the dash, I'll focus more there....

So, big help would be hopefully, if someone knows where the VR should be on a 77 pig...
Any assistance much appreciated...
 

ToyotaMatt

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OK.. I have read this thread multiple times over the last three days and have learned a lot.. Thank you Rudi and others...
However,,, my problem..
Purchased a 77 FJ55 last year, got her running, driving, even drove out to the pig rally in Arkansas this past year but did a quick turnaround. (Florida).
I wanted to sort out and clean up a couple of wires in the engine compartment, replace a couple of short length non OEM wire installations with OEM wiring I have from other projects. Fun stuff. Truck running great. All lights, switches, blinkers, working. Loom looks unaltered. No worries..
I start by reading all the above info. I have a 77 FJ55 wiring diagram. And I cannot find the voltage regulator.. I know right.. Grins.. but seriously, I was thinking it is in the engine compartment somewhere... USA model. I have followed the loom from start to finish both sides. And under the dash.. Cannot find the darn thing. Cant find a plug that has the wiring for a six plug, four plug, or three wires unattached, or an indication of where it was installed...my loom appears to be virgin unwrapped, except......where the loom comes close to the ignitor. My ignitor and coil have several additional wires on them... my alternator has the three prong, NON IVR, with the white/green wire and the white/black for the ground...coming out of the loom and correctly attached to the Alt... My gauges work, including the charge needle.
My thinking is the VR was originally located in the engine compartment, passenger side, on the firewall close to the coil/ignitor...there are two nuts on the firewall that are vacant/empty, and I'm hoping/thinking. If that is where it is supposed to be, Im thinking a previous owner removed it, and hooked the wiring up to the coil and ignitor, but cut in non OEM wiring.. I dont see the white/green... I don't see the white/black... My next step is to trim back some tape on these non OEM wires to expose what they are attached to. But if the VR is under the dash, I'll focus more there....

So, big help would be hopefully, if someone knows where the VR should be on a 77 pig...
Any assistance much appreciated...


i bet you have a updatd 2 wire green plug fj60 unit on there now

right

like this love in my life .....

 
Joined
Apr 23, 2014
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Jacksonville, FL
Well, that would make it easy, but nope.. I have the older (pre IVR) 3 prong. I have an 82, and had an 83 40 both with the IVR's atop the Alt's, so art least I can check that off the list.
My voltage regulator is either a lot smarter than I am ( a possibility) or PO removed it (seems like after reading attached threads a few have done that), or it's been relocated to parts unknown...
 
Joined
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Baltimore
My voltage regulator is either a lot smarter than I am ( a possibility) or PO removed it (seems like after reading attached threads a few have done that), or it's been relocated to parts unknown...

Without a VR, wouldn't you just cook your battery? I've definitely seen voltages upwards of 16-18VDC with a messed up VR.

A good sanity check would be to measure the voltage at you battery terminals at 2000 RPM. Might not be a smoking gun, because you could still have a bad VR, but if it's really high, that would at least point to a missing VR. If it's normal (14.4VDC or thereabouts), then you've either got voltage regulation or a bad alternator that isn't putting out enough juice to ruin your day.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Jacksonville, FL
Without a VR, wouldn't you just cook your battery? I've definitely seen voltages upwards of 16-18VDC with a messed up VR.

A good sanity check would be to measure the voltage at you battery terminals at 2000 RPM. Might not be a smoking gun, because you could still have a bad VR, but if it's really high, that would at least point to a missing VR. If it's normal (14.4VDC or thereabouts), then you've either got voltage regulation or a bad alternator that isn't putting out enough juice to ruin your day.
Honestly I don't know much of anything when it comes to electronics.. Yes, I'm that guy.. However, me being able to locate the VR compares to some people rebuilding an engine.. and will be a great starting point. Which is partly why I love Toyota wiring and the color codes and schematics. Im thinking the VR is right where it should be, but I've been at a loss up to this point. I'll know later today. The whole thing about measuring voltage is still a pay grade above where I'm currently at, but that is where I'm heading and why I love doing this as a hobby. Great mud is here, and thanks to all.. Common sense tells me I have one, plus the loom is otherwise original as previously stated..
 
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Baltimore
The whole thing about measuring voltage

This is the same operation as measuring the voltage of any battery. Put the multimeter in DC voltage mode in the correct range (should be the 20 VDC range on pretty much all multimeters), put the multimeter leads in the right holes (black goes to common, red goes to the hole with a "V" next to it), and hook it up to your battery terminals.
If you hooked it up backwards, you will just get a negative voltage reading, no problems.

I use this multimeter for automotive stuff because it also has RPM and Dwell on it for setting other stuff, but I'm not endorsing anything. It's just what they had one day when I was at an Autozone, and it still works fine 20 years later.


I can't link to amazon from this forum (won't let you) so this is the name of what I use: Actron CP7677 AutoTroubleShooter

All you have to do is hook it up and position the thing so you can see from the driver's seat. Then you put your foot on the gas and watch the meter. If it goes past 15VDC, that's too high. If it's super high, like 16 volts or higher, you are cooking your battery.
 

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