Vibration and shake at Idle (1 Viewer)

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I have a vibration in D while sitting at a stoplight as well. I either put it in neutral and wait for the light to turn green. Or stick it in neutral and give it a good blip of the throttle, that usually "wakes" up the motor. I drive it pretty hard, so it's only when I am driving like a civilized person that it does that vibration. It does not do this when I drive it hard.
 
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Me personally, I just accept that a 15 year old V8 Land Cruiser is gonna vibrate a little bit at idle- I think some of the vibration at idle is a standing wave created by exhaust resonance at 730 rpms.

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True true, and my rule of thumbs is when parts don't justify like new performance it time to consider upgrading, I doubt it's time..

I had this,

When sitting at the lights it would shake just a little bit and felt like the idle speed was a bit low. Slip it into neutral and it would go away, drive and it would go away.

after her timing belt service ($$$$$$$) its gone! i know that dose not help much considering how much they change during the TB service but check your belts, pulleys and water pump :meh:
The more on think about it, the tensioner has 149K. Could contribute I suppose.

I noticed recently that there is some vibration at idle after driving on the highway for several hours. It would go away after a few minutes at idle. Almost as if there was a light knocking? I'm using premium fuel. Could be the winter fuel?
Sounds like fuel/air problem, doesn't!

I have a vibration in D while sitting at a stoplight as well. I either put it in neutral and wait for the light to turn green. Or stick it in neutral and give it a good blip of the throttle, that usually "wakes" up the motor. I drive it pretty hard, so it's only when I am driving like a civilized person that it does that vibration. It does not do this when I drive it hard.
Makes me think I'm fooling myself. With 44K & SF treatment, results may be do to my aggressive "OD OFF mode" while driving to blow out treatment. I start driving normal and vibration comes back, albeit a less often & intense vib. I've also noticed RPM smoother & holding better on drop.

I'll do oil & filter next it's do at 150K, hopefully we'll see difference if only a little better yet.
 
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It is not that the mounts would move in any way you could see, as they get older they just translate more vibration.

New motor mounts will limit the noise and vibration going 75 mph uphill tremendously. I noticed its much smoother, plus the Tcase shifter hardly moves.
 
New motor mounts will limit the noise and vibration going 75 mph uphill tremendously. I noticed its much smoother, plus the Tcase shifter hardly moves.

I need to look at mine. I saw a small crack in the passenger side motor mount back in 2010. I haven't even looked at it since. Your post reminded me of it. I do have a lot of movement in the transfer case, as well as vibration and sound.
 
What do you think Lexus dealership would charge to replace the engine and transfer case mounts? Just as part of the aging process.

ACC charged me 290 in labor for motor mounts. Apparently someone had there's changed before me as the initial estimate was 190 a few months earlier. Spendy, but worth it to kill the reoccurring vibration at stop lights, plus lower engine decibels at highway speeds. I believe the other mount you're referring is transmission, which is likely overkill to replace.
 
ACC charged me 290 in labor for motor mounts. Apparently someone had there's changed before me as the initial estimate was 190 a few months earlier. Spendy, but worth it to kill the reoccurring vibration at stop lights, plus lower engine decibels at highway speeds. I believe the other mount you're referring is transmission, which is likely overkill to replace.

This makes sense as a fix. So what was the total cost?
 
This doesn't have anything do with a vibration at a stand still. I had my truck on a lift last night for some freshening up. I found the diff support bushing/arm was completely blown out. With a 2' crow bar I was able to move the entire diff carrier 1" up and down. I was also able to slightly move it with my hand. There is only one of the arms on the driver side, and has two bolts on the frame. Does anybody have a part # for it? I took a video of the play, I will upload it tonight.
 
I have a vibration in D while sitting at a stoplight as well. I either put it in neutral and wait for the light to turn green. Or stick it in neutral and give it a good blip of the throttle, that usually "wakes" up the motor. I drive it pretty hard, so it's only when I am driving like a civilized person that it does that vibration. It does not do this when I drive it hard.

I need to look at mine. I saw a small crack in the passenger side motor mount back in 2010. I haven't even looked at it since. Your post reminded me of it. I do have a lot of movement in the transfer case, as well as vibration and sound.

This doesn't have anything do with a vibration at a stand still. I had my truck on a lift last night for some freshening up. I found the diff support bushing/arm was completely blown out. With a 2' crow bar I was able to move the entire diff carrier 1" up and down. I was also able to slightly move it with my hand. There is only one of the arms on the driver side, and has two bolts on the frame. Does anybody have a part # for it? I took a video of the play, I will upload it tonight.

The fact you don't get vibration when driving hard is a good indicator IMHO, that neither the cracked motor mount or support bushing have to do with cause. They may add to sound, but hard driving wouldn't change there condition.

One thing is for sure; when I drive hard keeping RPM up I'll run hotter than I normally do.

I'm wondering if engine temp could have something to do with vibration in our aging 100's?:idea:
 
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I've found the source of my vibration sound, it come from the front roof rack cross bar. It is tight and has not been moved in years. I'll not try moving it to stop sound of vibration yet, as I'm still looking for cause(s).

I have been able to reduce occurrence to ~10% form 100% of the time, by cleaning of fuel/air systems and combustion camber along with oil & filter change. Interesting almost never occurs when I run engine hard.
 
I've found the source of my vibration sound, it come from the front roof rack cross bar. It is tight and has not been moved in years. I'll not try moving it to stop sound of vibration yet, as I'm still looking for cause(s).

I have been able to reduce occurrence to ~10% form 100% of the time, by cleaning of fuel/air systems and combustion camber along with oil & filter change. Interesting almost never occurs when I run engine hard.

Wish I had the money to replace my motor mounts and transmission mounts to see if it would make mine feel like new. Had the mounts checked, shop foreman said they were good, but after 8 years in the hot Las Vegas weather I know they are harder then when new. Keep up the search and keep us informed. I moved my crossbars back toward the rear, every little thing seems to help.
 
My '04 has a vibe at 2500 RPM in every gear. No flux capacitor on it. I assume it must be engine (or engine bolt-on) related. Engine cover delete and TB clean didn't resolve. Can feel it in the gas pedal.
 
My '04 has a vibe at 2500 RPM in every gear. No flux capacitor on it. I assume it must be engine (or engine bolt-on) related. Engine cover delete and TB clean didn't resolve. Can feel it in the gas pedal.

That is different issue than the "D" vibration, were experiencing.

I was wondering about catalytic convert's being slightly clogged, but ruled out for now. Because I'm thinking that would be more of higher ~2,500 rpm potential cause.
 
Outside Temperature dropping and vibration increasing in frequency & intensity.

Some mud members which includes myself, have noticed vibration not present or lessened if driving hard (high rpm driving like when driving with OD OFF). It is certain driving hard increase operating temperature of engine and transmission.

1) What components or sensors are affected by outside air temp & engine temp?

2) Is it possible to compare outside air temperature with reading from MAF to what ECM or ECU sees?

3) Does temperature reading of outside air which is displayed on dash come from [STRIKE]MAF?[/STRIKE] apparently not according to other threads.
 
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I may have missed it in all the info, but have you isolated the location of the mystery vibration? Engine bay, somewhere in the body, top/bottom, etc. How severe is the vibration? Are we talking normal car running vibes or rear view mirror shaking chatter? As for your current questions

1) Everything and it depends on how cold. Fluids thicken, grease thickens.
2) You have intake air reading and coolant reading, that's all I know of from the ECU.
 
Yes I've isolated the sound roof-rack cross member noted in post #52^. It's not normal car running vib but rather something new to my LC.

1) very true but I have been using same fluids (changing regular) brands for sometime. With the exception of Mobil dexron VI transmission fluid which has 15K miles on it. I'll be switching back to M1 syn soon as I liked better, too see difference.

2)So I need to get a scanner of some sort to check readings.

Could they be off slightly without tripping a code, but yet cause engine to run off kilt?
 

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