Vibration and shake at Idle (1 Viewer)

[marshotel]

Clean the throttle body and the butterfly valve at the front of the intake manifold with a toothbrush and some throttle body cleaner. Cleaning the throttle body should help to smooth out the idle some.

Me personally, I just accept that a 15 year old V8 Land Cruiser is gonna vibrate a little bit at idle- I think some of the vibration at idle is a standing wave created by exhaust resonance at 730 rpms.

Toyota added the flux capacitor to mitigate the standing wave due to exhaust resonance at idle, but really, it is nothing to worry about.

One idea is that you could get a magnaflow muffler- with the magnaflow you would not even notice the minor vibration at idle because it would be completely drowned out by other frequencies coming from the exhaust system.

 

[Lionheart]

Conclusion

Flux Capacitor

I think this is actually a quirk of the car - and good to see other people experiencing exactly the same issue.

I noted when idling at traffic lights it drops to between 610 and 590rpm and it's a bit lumpy, but then it automatically pops up to 700rpm and smooth as a whistle.

Then the revs slowly drop down to nearer 600 again and it's a bit lumpy.

It's almost like it's idling too low and getting near to the point of stalling so starts to struggle a bit.

Unfortunately you cannot change the idle speed (I've been informed) as it's not cable controlled like the the old days, but ECU controlled so without reprogramming an ECU you can't change it.

The solution would be to set the idle at 680-700rpm and that's solved!! But can't be done.

So - I have a feeling it's a quirk and so we'll all just have to live with it! It does not affect the drive of the car at all and only noticed when stationary.

My conclusion - especially as it seems that it's affected a fair few people - is that it's just a quirk of this particular model.

 

[duggy]

Motor mounts?

 

[marshotel]

Flux Capacitor

Behold: the flux capacitor:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/302358-question-about-attachment-undercarriage.html

They added this weight to the frame to interfere with the standing wave that is created by vibrations from the exhaust at idle. I am not kidding about this.

Whenever somebody asks what the funny looking weight is for.
The correct answer is : flux capacitor.

Get it?

Seriously though, the vibrations that you get at idle while in gear are a well-known phenomenon. It has to do with vibrations from the exhaust and acoustic standing waves.

It is indeed a quirk of this particular model and nothing to be concerned about.

 

[SWUtah]

Can be the spare tire. I had that and I put a towel between the spare and the frame, problem went away. It can also be the engine cover.

 

[2001LC]

No more Vibration during idle, **darn** back again & again

SEE post: Rough idle & D vibration reduction tree, for solution to my vibration sound. Which sound was coming form my "roof rack indicator" I need to patent that. I've left the roof rack as is for future alert to issues needing attention, opting instead to eliminate cause of vibration.

 

[PADDO]

I've developed this vibration while stopped in D with brakes on. It does this all the time now and getting worst over last 24 hr's.

I'll be checking some of the possible cause and remedies outline above.:

Just curious, have you taken the engine cover off to see if the vibration stops? Obviously your issue could be caused by something else entirely more complex, but for me it was simply the engine cover harmonizing at low engine rpm.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[Supra88]

Just curious, have you taken the engine cover off to see if the vibration stops? Obviously your issue could be caused by something else entirely more complex, but for me it was simply the engine cover harmonizing at low engine rpm. Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

^ This.

 

[SWUtah]

Mine was the spare tire. Just lowered the spare put some towels between the spare and the frame and tightened it backup. The harmonics don't hurt anything, it's a body on frame truck. Turn up the radio

 

[2001LC]

If spare tire or engine cover I'm inclined to leave as is for now, it's and early warning system which suite me just fine. Now the source of vibration is what I'm after, much more-so than whats making sound.

Cause vs effect Ya-I-No. Only good vibration is a...... dead one....................

Just poured in can of BG $$k with only ~3 gallons remaining in gas tank (should only add 44K with at least 10 gallons in tank), and drove 5 miles at 3,500 rpm. Reduced vib sound a little further and low idle a littler higher at ~615. Top off tank drove 2.5 miles.

I"ll still try removing engine cover if I get vib before TBody cleaning. Spare tire is very tight, thanks SwUath.

I'll clean T-body and inject Sea Foam into T-body by way of PCV hose intake tube.

 

[SWUtah]

If spare tire or engine cover I'm inclined to leave as is for now, it's and early warning system which suite me just fine. Now the source of vibration is what I'm after, much more-so than whats making sound.
.

I think what we have here is a failure to communicate. Engine cover/spare tire contacting frame, both can "CAUSE" vibration. Let us know what is the source of "your" vibration . My spare was tight but the contact was causing a harmonic through the 100. These vehicles are prone to frame harmonics which is a vibration. Good luck

 

[2001LC]

Just curious, have you taken the engine cover off to see if the vibration stops? Obviously your issue could be caused by something else entirely more complex, but for me it was simply the engine cover harmonizing at low engine rpm.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Yes, I did hear vibration when cover off, thanks anyway. I've very tight brackets holding cover, streach to fit when bolting on.

I think what we have here is a failure to communicate. Engine cover/spare tire contacting frame, both can "CAUSE" vibration. Let us know what is the source of "your" vibration . My spare was tight but the contact was causing a harmonic through the 100. These vehicles are prone to frame harmonics which is a vibration. Good luck

No miss communication, I know my spare is very tight back under the frame. I filled it with air while strapped-in, makes extremely tight. Although the towel up-under the frame idea, well could be issue here in the Rocky's with rust.

The cause of this vibration I feel is not the part vibrating, harmonics perhaps, but starts with something(s) out of spec like:
It could be fuel/air mixture related.
It could be internal or easy as oil change.
It could be the transmission torque converter or simple fluid issue.


I'm going to continue cleaning, working through fuel/air line-of-thinking with the can of Sea Foam to the throttle-body and check vacuum & PVC lines while I've I'm at it. Then I'll drive to blow out the Sea Foam & burn through the 44K in the tank.

 

[Gunney]

I had this,

When sitting at the lights it would shake just a little bit and felt like the idle speed was a bit low. Slip it into neutral and it would go away, drive and it would go away.

after her timing belt service ($$$$$$$) its gone! i know that dose not help much considering how much they change during the TB service but check your belts, pulleys and water pump

 

[2001LC]

Vibration back again, but somewhat expected.



Gunny, we're thinking along same lines, basically tune up. A thought; I've never check timing but may if I can find my old timing light I will. But not throwing any codes so if off would be under 1 degree I suppose.

By your statement & $$$$ I'm betting you had TB done in a decent shop. Possibly you had more done at that time: like air filter, MAF cleaned, oil & filter chg, T-Body cleaning, coolant flush, PCV RR and maybe a power steering & transmission flush?

So far I've gotten the best response form 44K with this vibration issue. I'm still working through fuel/air cleaning. Once gas tank empty I'll chg oil & filler. I expect further improvement once done.

Oh yeah, running without engine cover or spare tire at this time, no chg in vib.


TMI:

My current thinking is little issue have mounting up, coupled with bad gas and winter blend at pumps (cheaper blend). I've been using multiple gas station over last years or so, not normal for me. I've had problems in past with buying cheap gas, then using "better" gas with cleaners blended in. IMO seem to loosen up gunk, then gum-up the works.

I've check drive belt (serpentine) and found the tensioner pulley sounded good, but idler pulley has a slight chirp sound. I'll keep eye/ear on, it may be just one tiny tiny part of issue but has some usable life yet.

FWIW: Interesting point on case for OEM parts, which I'm a big proponent of. I swapped out bearing of tensioner pulley with $5 NAPA bearing and replaced idle pulley with OEM (bearing and pulley assemble). NAPA winning on this one part with 52K miles on them both.

Also power steering pump a little noisy which I'll flush when I do transmission, the trany too may be a contributor (a big one). Have only 15K on transmission fluid since last flush, but I've never been happy with the ATF I used then.

I'd did T-Belt 52K miles ago, along with baseline. Been well maintained since without any vibration before or after. Except I do noticing a little vibration for last yr or so, when oil gets old with ~5k miles on it. Never uses a drop of oil according to dip stick, but have seen level rise a bit over time. Heat expansion may fool me a bit, but IMO gas get into oil each time I start & turn off engine, especially on short runs where engine not fully warmed up before shut down.

 

[hkeller]

I think a large part of this has to be engine and transfer case mounts aging. They exist to isolate the engine/drive line from the rest of the vehicle to stop the transfer of sound/vibration. As they age, they don't do as good of a job. Couple this with an engine and components that are warn, and you can see where the two combined could result in the vibration many of us are feeling.

 

[SWUtah]

Gunny, we're thinking along same lines, basically tune up. A thought; I've never check timing but may if I can find my old timing light. But not throwing any codes so if off would be under 1 degree I suppose.

By your statement & $$$$ I'm betting you had TB done in a decent shop. Possibly you had more done at that time: like air filter, MAF cleaned, oil & filter chg, T-Body cleaning, coolant flush, PVC RR and maybe a power steering & transmission flush?

So far I've gotten the best response form 44K with this vibration issue. I'm still working through fuel/air cleaning. Once gas tank empty I'll chg oil & filler. I expect further improvement once done.

Oh yeah, running without engine cover or spare tire at this time, no chg in vib.


TMI:

My current thinking is little issue have mounting up, coupled with bad gas and winter blend at pumps (cheaper blend). I've been using multiple gas station over last years or so, not normal for me. I've had problems in past with buying cheap gas, then using "better" gas with cleaners blended in. IMO seem to loosen up gunk, then gum-up the works.

I've check drive belt (serpentine) and found the tensioner pulley sounded good, but idler pulley has a slight chirp sound. I'll keep eye/ear on, it may be just one tiny tiny part of issue but has some usable life yet.

FWIW: Interesting point on case for OEM parts, which I'm a big proponent of. I swapped out bearing of tensioner pulley with $5 NAPA bearing and replaced idle pulley with OEM (bearing and pulley assemble). NAPA winning on this one part with 52K miles on them both.

Also power steering pump a little noisy which I'll flush when I do transmission, the trany too may be a contributor (a big one). Have only 15K on transmission fluid since last flush, but I've never been happy with the ATF I used then.

I'd did T-Belt 52K miles ago, along with baseline. Been well maintained since without any vibration before or after. Except I do noticing a little vibration for last yr or so, when oil gets old with ~5k miles on it. Never uses a drop of oil according to dip stick, but have seen level rise a bit over time. Heat expansion may fool me a bit, but IMO gas get into oil each time I start & turn off engine, especially on short runs where engine not fully warmed up before shut down.

Maybe I'm confused but you seem to be changing everything at the same time, hoping you find what might be a problem, or are you seeing some improvements in one vibration and maybe the discovery of another one?

 

[2001LC]

I think a large part of this has to be engine and transfer case mounts aging. They exist to isolate the engine/drive line from the rest of the vehicle to stop the transfer of sound/vibration. As they age, they don't do as good of a job. Couple this with an engine and components that are warn, and you can see where the two combined could result in the vibration many of us are feeling.

Could be contriubing factor. Although I've checked mounts by looking at them each close-up & standing back for overall view. While assistant (GF) raises RPM, while in gear (D then R) with foot on brake. They don't move even 1mm as-far as I can see.

Maybe I'm confused but you seem to be changing everything at the same time, hoping you find what might be a problem, or are you seeing some improvements in one vibration and maybe the discovery of another one?

Actually I've not changed anything, only 1st) cleaned MAF, 2nd) added 44K to gas and 3rd) Sea Foam too TB & intake manifold. I'm working through one thing at a time, while checking many parts as I go.

Any and all ideas welcome and thanks for all given.

 

[hkeller]

It is not that the mounts would move in any way you could see, as they get older they just translate more vibration.

 

[2001LC]

I understood ^^^

 

[white_lx]

I noticed recently that there is some vibration at idle after driving on the highway for several hours. It would go away after a few minutes at idle. Almost as if there was a light knocking? I'm using premium fuel. Could be the winter fuel?