Vibration and shake at Idle (2 Viewers)

[paflytyer]

Good to know, how long ago were they replaced and was there visible movement.

Others did same, but said came back after a year or so.

Do you have sliders or running boards?

And, how about that spare tire?

 

[2001LC]

All stock DD with running boards. Spare is very tight up under, filled with air while in place which makes for a very sung fit.

Sound effect from rough idle is coming from roof rack, it's my check engine light "sound indicator". I didn't pay extra for the indicator, but hey, it works better than check engine light....

 

[paflytyer]

All stock DD with running boards. Spare is very tight up under, filled with air while in place which makes for a very sung fit.

Sound effect from rough idle is coming from roof rack, it's my check engine light "sound indicator". I didn't pay extra for the indicator, but hey, it works better than check engine light....

So we're done here, problem solved? Narrowed down to a check engine light sound indicator on the roof rack. Great news.....

 

[2001LC]

Rough idle & D vibration reduction tree

Edited 1/21/18 most import procedure while doing a minor tune is to disconnect battery for 20 minutes. This reset ECM.

To recap:

Many have report the "D" vibration, this accrues after engine reaches operating temperature, while stopped in any gear with foot on brake or E brake on.

Undoubtedly there’s not one solution for all, so a diagnostic tree we could follow would be helpfully.

My LC: All factory recommended PM up-to-date, completely stock DD. No after market parts or modification worth mentioning.

Recap; list of tune-up items (tree), which reduced rough idle frequency to only 10% from 100% of time:

1. 
   
   
   • Run 44K or any good fuel system cleaner through a tank of gas…(best results from this)
     
   • Disconnect battery and clean & grease battery clamps/post. (always disconnect negative post first)
   • Air filter, oil & filter makes sure up-to-date.
   • Spray clean MAF sensor.
   • Clean Throttle body.
   • Check all vacuum lines including PCV valve.
   • Reconnect battery (wait 20 minutes, always reconnect negative post last
   • Hard driving above 4,500 rpm for 5 minutes to cook off/out CATS and aid injector cleaning & decarbonizing heads.

Test performed:

• • Inspect for loose, broken or missing parts; spare tire, including mounts form engine to tail pipe & so called “flux capacitor”.
  • Use stethoscope checking: coils, injectors, pulley bearings, bushing & areas of possible vibration.
  • Pinched off return fuel line (fuel pressure test)

Edited 11/28/13:

So far no vibration, not even from my roof rack "check engine sound indicator". Before calling this issue solved; {waiting on reset to take affect, burn through at least one tank of gas along with varying weather condition} then I'll make the call.

Edited 12/5/13:

I'm happy no vibration sound.

Temperature dropped from 65 deg F to sub zero outside and no vibration to speak of, have gone form loud vibration sound 100% of time to barley perceivable vibration feel 1% of time under all driving conditions.

I'll run one more can of BG product through gas tank, replace fuel filter, clean catalytic convertors and flush transmission, too see if i get that last little bit of vibration feel. But for now happy vib sound is gone.

Oh and I'm keeping the roof rack indicator as is.

 

[Cfbrenton1]

I just cleaned the throttle bodies on both my 1997 LX and 2007 LX. Both were vibrating and dropping idle when in drive or reverse with the brake on. The newer one had a dirtier throttle body, but it was a lot easier to clean.

Now they both run better and don't vibrate. They also don't drop to 600 rpm when sitting in drive or reverse...more like 750. Their park and neutral idle seems to be the same as before at about 800.

I saw a picture once showing that if you shine a flashlight in the throttle body,a little bit light should go through other side around the throttle (like a solar eclipse), which means when idling with the throttle closed, a little bit of air should be coming through. So, it makes sense that if it's dirty at idle, less air is coming through than should be, and therefore, the idle drops below the ideal level and things start vibrating.

This is my take at least. I guarantee, if I had taken this to Lexus, they would have started looking for things that were vibrating and still not fixed it after charging me a lot. I am convinced the things that were vibrating were just symptoms of the problem and that the dirty throttle bodies were the issue.

 

[2001LC]

***I am convinced the things that were vibrating were just symptoms of the problem and that the dirty throttle bodies were the issue.

I couldn't agree with you more, provided the thing(s) vibrating are in proper working order. The sound is a diagnostic aid alerting us, just not as specific as the check engine light code.

Throttle body has been common throughout this thread, as have other issues in the air/fuel category.

Many keep pointing to the part(s) vibrating, or old mounts. Which are to be considered, but rarely the root of the problem. For some it seems, they're very content removing a part or stuffing rags to stop harmonics, which really doesn't take advantage of this annoying but beneficial diagnostic aid SOUND.

I believe even with broken engine mounts; the 2UZ-FE engine should run at a very low vibration as designed. If not in most cases something needs to be correcting beyond just changing mounts or removing parts.

Your the type of owner I like buying from...kudos to you.

 

[bluecruiser]

I can't believe we got to the bottom of this, but I'm so glad we did. Or did we? You may have just needed a new roof rack?

 

[bluecruiser]

Have you considered for a minute that your headlight bulbs were loose? Thus causing a harmonic issue? At this point all must be considered or this is really a goose chase of sorts.

 

[paflytyer]

Have you guys thought about checking your roof racks? They might be loose and causing harmonics at stop lights.. And, the weather is turning cold.

I would check for a loose engine cover and dirty throttle body. And clean windows.

 

[Cfbrenton1]

I couldn't agree with you more, provided the thing(s) vibrating are in proper working order. The sound is a diagnostic aid alerting us, just not as specific as the check engine light code.

Throttle body has been common throughout this thread, as have other issues in the air/fuel category.

Many keep pointing to the part(s) vibrating, or old mounts. Which are to be considered, but rarely the root of the problem. For some it seems, they're very content removing a part or stuffing rags to stop harmonics, which really doesn't take advantage of this annoying but beneficial diagnostic aid SOUND.

I believe even with broken engine mounts; the 2UZ-FE engine should run at a very low vibration as designed. If not in most cases something needs to be correcting beyond just changing mounts/parts.

Your the type of owner I like buying from...kudos to you.

I have a 2003 LX for sale as we speak if you are interested.

 

[SWUtah]

I'm going to clean the MAS and throttle body, let you know if this helps mine.

 

[2001LC]

44K seem to have given me the best results, along with Tb cleaning. Old gun barrel cleaning brush helpful in cleaning throat & rim of valve. A drop of 3M oil on TB valve axle ends worked in then wipe down with solvent is a good idea to finish up.

I believe getting out that last little bit of vibration (so far so good) was something I learned while helping a member recently: Disconnect battery post for 30 minutes while cleaning MAF meter along with cleaning & greasing battery post. This reset ECM/ECU which may have adjusted to the impeded fuel/air system mixture over time. Plus a number of FSM test state check battery first, a drop in voltage may impede any number of systems.

 

[SWUtah]

Cleaned the air induction system including the throttle body, 90% of vibration gone. I'm going to put this on my list to continue to clean every 120k miles

 

[2001LC]

^^^^ Did you disconnect battery for 30 minutes too reset ECU

I may still have 1% left to work-out, I'll know when freeze hits over next few days.

 

[2001LC]

I'm happy no vibration sound. <<click to the left and see Rough idle & D vibration reduction tree procedure.

Temperature dropped from 65 deg F to sub zero outside and no vibration sound from my roof rack to speak of. I have gone form loud vibration sound 100% of time to barley perceivable vibration feel 1% of time under all driving conditions.

I'll run one more can of BG product through gas tank, replace fuel filter, clean catalytic convertors and flush transmission, too see if i get that last little bit of vibration feel. But for now happy vib sound is gone.

Oh and I'm keeping the roof rack indicator as is.

 

[bluecruiser]

Bump for great news. #vibesbealmostgone

 

[2000UZJ]

I had thought the slight vibration and rumble was normal on my truck. It was NOT. I was wheeling a few weeks ago and had my t-case knob shift over 3" to the passenger side and blew my center console out on the trail. I knew I had sheared a motor mount. The vibration didn't increase, nor decrease while driving. So I just thought I'll take it easy and not drive it hard on the street. I just replaced both motor mounts and discovered that BOTH were broken. So the motor was just resting in the cradle. After I replaced them, the vibration went away and the truck was dead silent and zero vibration. It's almost strange not having that vibration. In all honesty if I had not sheared the motor mount with ~750.lb torque on the drive train (low range, nose down, rear wheel off the ground, full throttle) I would not of replaced the motor mounts. I would of kept driving it. There was substantial dirt and debris in the mount, which told us that it had been broken for quite some time.

For $250, it's been one of the best maintenance things I have done. The old mounts were dry rot, hard as a rock, and split in several locations. I advise anyone who has excessive t-case shifter movement/vibration to replace these. You cannot tell if they are broken until you take them out. Mike T at ACC Toyota was able to swap both mounts out in just under 45 minutes.


FYI: The t-case is a 2.488:1. So actually the max torque is 796.16ft.lb.

 

[2001LC]

I had thought the slight vibration and rumble was normal on my truck. It was NOT. I was wheeling a few weeks ago and had my t-case knob shift over 3" to the passenger side and blew my center console out on the trail. I knew I had sheared a motor mount. The vibration didn't increase, nor decrease while driving. So I just thought I'll take it easy and not drive it hard on the street. I just replaced both motor mounts and discovered that BOTH were broken. So the motor was just resting in the cradle. **** There was substantial dirt and debris in the mount, which told us that it had been broken for quite some time.
***** You cannot tell if they are broken until you take them out.

Your 100 is really a testament to the 100, takes a beating and just keeps ticking.

I was wondering when the vibration started? and if you did a standard motor mount inspection test before the T-case knob moved?

 

[SWUtah]

I had the foreman at my local Toyota check my motor mounts since all the talk and mine is a 2005, he said they were good and did not need to be changed. If they were even marginal I know they would of recommended changing, they are all about the $$$. I do believe that as they age they get hard and the vibration increases but unless abused and I mean really abused, I doubt the vibration will impact the dependability for the first 500k miles.

 

[DarkIS]

Yes, a simple solution! Thank you