Vehicle lift, challenger or rotary.

[FJBen]

I have a chance to buy a used challenger 9k lift or rotary 7k lift for $2k.

For just my kind of hike mechanic stuff, would you always go higher weight? Or is rotary a better brand?

 

[Malleus]

Depends on how "used" they are. You'll never wear out either. As long as they're not already worn out.

If they've both been dealer maintained (I'd be shocked), get the 9k. If not, get the one that leaks least.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I bought a new Rotary SPOA10 and I wouldn't want anything smaller. Go with the Challenger 9k unless, as @Malleus said, one or both are leaking badly and/or otherwise worn out. About the only "wear" parts are the motor, cables, and cable guides so if those pass your visual and it goes up and down smoothly then you should be fine. Can you see them in operation before you purchase or are they already on a pallet?

 

[Michael B]

I have a Challenger 10k and it handles everything I need it for. It’s low enough to get under my S2000 and heavy enough for my K20 project. I have seen guys on other forums struggling with sports cars being too low or lift points too narrow for their lifts.

 

[LDowney]

I have a Challenger 10k and it handles everything I need it for. It’s low enough to get under my S2000 and heavy enough for my K20 project. I have seen guys on other forums struggling with sports cars being too low or lift points too narrow for their lifts.

I am in this boat. My lift is a 2-post asymmetric lift rated at over 10k. Getting under low slung vehicles is a challenge sometimes, but the a more frequent challenge is length of the lift arms. On shorter wheelbases, the arms are too long to pick up the lift points. With the arms fully retracted, my FJ40 or BJ70 have to be located almost perfectly for the lift pads to line up. When I bought this lift, I had no idea that I should be giving this any consideration in my selection criteria.

Good luck with your lift purchase

 

[FJBen]

Depends on how "used" they are. You'll never wear out either. As long as they're not already worn out.

If they've both been dealer maintained (I'd be shocked), get the 9k. If not, get the one that leaks least.

I’ll get more info on usage and such. It appears to be a shop that’s selling 3.

I bought a new Rotary SPOA10 and I wouldn't want anything smaller. Go with the Challenger 9k unless, as @Malleus said, one or both are leaking badly and/or otherwise worn out. About the only "wear" parts are the motor, cables, and cable guides so if those pass your visual and it goes up and down smoothly then you should be fine. Can you see them in operation before you purchase or are they already on a pallet?

I’ll check they may have been torn down already but they appeared to be in a shop….good or bad i suppose

 

[FJBen]

I have a Challenger 10k and it handles everything I need it for. It’s low enough to get under my S2000 and heavy enough for my K20 project. I have seen guys on other forums struggling with sports cars being too low or lift points too narrow for their lifts.

Yeah I don’t have anything too big at the moment.

Bj74, 2006 tundra, sienna, 2003 4Runner, gx470, eurovan, Jetta, zero turn, small tractor.

 

[FJBen]

Part 2.

Here’s the shop.

Slab thickness at front. Wil Probabaly need to drill a sample.

The middle slab. The lift would be 6” from the edge. Too close?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I don’t think I would install it that close to the edge of a cold joint. Rotary has specifications that you can access online covering all aspects of installation including minimum distance from edge. I assume Challenger has the same.

 

[FJBen]

I don’t think I would install it that close to the edge of a cold joint. Rotary has specifications that you can access online covering all aspects of installation including minimum distance from edge. I assume Challenger has the same.

Rotary has this for the 7k and sp lifts.

Will look for challenger.

Edit: Challenger says 8” from expansion/crack/joint.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I know you know this, but on the off chance; those distances are from the closest anchor bolt. I am not sure if they are center line of the bolt or edge of the bolt. Also, if you didn't notice, you can get much closer to the edge by using an epoxy anchor instead of an expansion anchor. I used epoxy anchors for the 6 structural steel columns on my shop expansion. I think I used Simpson Strong-Tie. Hilti is great stuff but it's not really conducive to the small consumer/project. You will find Simpson or Sika much more user friendly and available (and equivalent strength-wise).

I honestly didn't think about the epoxy anchor possibility but you could use that for all the anchors if you wanted to. Very critical to clean the hole out though with a clean-out brush specifically made for the anchor system you are using. Blow/vacuum and use the brush multiple times before inserting the epoxy.

 

[FJBen]

Here’s the info I got on the challenger. It appears it was inspected in 2024, not sure what that means

 

[FJBen]

I know you know this, but on the off chance; those distances are from the closest anchor bolt. I am not sure if they are center line of the bolt or edge of the bolt. Also, if you didn't notice, you can get much closer to the edge by using an epoxy anchor instead of an expansion anchor. I used epoxy anchors for the 6 structural steel columns on my shop expansion. I think I used Simpson Strong-Tie. Hilti is great stuff but it's not really conducive to the small consumer/project. You will find Simpson or Sika much more user friendly and available (and equivalent strength-wise).

I honestly didn't think about the epoxy anchor possibility but you could use that for all the anchors if you wanted to. Very critical to clean the hole out though with a clean-out brush specifically made for the anchor system you are using. Blow/vacuum and use the brush multiple times before inserting the epoxy.

I think with that setup/epoxy I should be good to go then. Thanks for the info on Simpson vs Hilti


What do you think would be a good price for these? He’s asking $2500 or best but says he wants them gone.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

What do you think would be a good price for these? He’s asking $2500 or best but says he wants them gone.

Gosh I really have no idea. This thread came up in a quick google search: Scored a 2-post Challenger lift on Craiglist today - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/scored-a-2-post-challenger-lift-on-craiglist-today.92950/

I would think $2500 is probably a decent price given the inflation since 2011 but that's just a thought. I guess I would just see how low he would go. I also saw another reference that said you can call Challenger with the serial number and they can give you the manufacture date. Not sure that matters but thought I would pass it along. Good luck! I have found my lift to be indispensable at times; especially working alone.

 

[FJBen]

Gosh I really have no idea. This thread came up in a quick google search: Scored a 2-post Challenger lift on Craiglist today - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/scored-a-2-post-challenger-lift-on-craiglist-today.92950/

I would think $2500 is probably a decent price given the inflation since 2011 but that's just a thought. I guess I would just see how low he would go. I also saw another reference that said you can call Challenger with the serial number and they can give you the manufacture date. Not sure that matters but thought I would pass it along. Good luck! I have found my lift to be indispensable at times; especially working alone.

Yeah I’m going to hit pretty low. It’s not a big necessity and used has me a little worried, but man have I wanted one forever!