Valve Train Oil Flow

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Well listened with my Stethoscope. Listened to exhaust (Ouch), Oil pan and valve cover. Confirmed valve train tap.

The valves have been adjusted. I will check again since putting roughly 500 miles on it., and some highway speed. I will, as Steamer suggested, try to change the sound on # 5 where I believe the knocking is coming from.

Has anyone ever adjusted a valve and unable to get the tapping to go away? I saw a video here of someone grinding the rocker arms (gently) to smooth the bottom that touches the valve. Not sure that is what I want to do but something is not sitting right after adjustment.

Any guidance is appreciated.

Boaf
 
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Been following this thread, as I'll eventually turn the key on my early 1F and see what sorts of problems like this I have. Appreciate all the documentation through your trials. Wish I could add something to help, but I'm not there yet.

Oh, wait, maybe this will help. If you drive like @wngrog at a minimum of 3000 rpm (a lot), and even jump (bounce) the rig a bit, you'll get good distribution of oil where it needs to go. Idle is for watchers, and mail deliverers. :p
 
Fellow LC'rs,

I have been running my LC, and adjusted the valves today. It seems like there is no oil flowing on top. Some of the rockers look dry. I am going to drain the oil and fill with a thinner weigh. Also some cleaner.

If you followed the thread, I pulled the valve train off, flushed the bar and cleaned both holes on each rocker. I hope it is just a clog that can be disolved. Maybe the Oil filter but doubt that. Any other suggestions on cleaners?


Thanks,

Boaf
 
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If you are not getting oil delivered up top, I would not run it anymore. At this point I think I would pull the valve train back off, pull the distributor and spin the oil pump with the drill and cut off screwdriver technique. And then see if you get oil out of the delivery hole under rocker pedestal # 4.

When you put the rocker assembly back together and installed, did you make sure that pedestal # 4 got back in the same position and the oil holes in the head and pedestal # 4 matched up? Also are you sure the hole in the rocker shaft matched up with the outlet hole of pedestal # 4?

I assume you did have oil pressure indicated on the gauge when you had it running?
 
It takes a bit for cold, thick oil to get up there. On mine, when hot, oil flowed like water from the rocker with the worst bushing, a "path of least resistance" type deal. Mine taps as well when hot.

Here is an example:
 
these engine do not use the oil for a cooling effect on the head like the 1FZ engines do, so there isnt much in the way of oil flow over the head.

 
Brian, that slo-mo is so cool. I've been watching it over and over trying to figure out which two relate to that double tap sound. I think I hypnotized myself.
 
Thanks Brian. I am not even getting that flow. There must be something clogged. Got some cleaner and will change the filter and Oil tomorrow. Hope that clears...
 
Brian, that slo-mo is so cool. I've been watching it over and over trying to figure out which two relate to that double tap sound. I think I hypnotized myself.

front two
 
Fellow LC'ers,

Bad news, I am getting 0 oil flow on the top half of the motor. Ran some cleaner and changed the oil.

  1. First clue (a bit noisy)
  2. Changed the oil and filled it up, it leaked out the valve cover gasket. If oil was flowing, it would have leaked out.
  3. Pulled the valve cover, started the motor, (trying to attach a video but cannot). Revved it and no oil came out, none, nada, not a drop
  4. Oil pressure gauge in the truck indicates high (pegged).
What do you guys think? Pull the valve train and check for blockage? Not sure that is the issue. I cleaned the valve train about 1000 miles ago. I am starting to think the oil supply tube is the culprit. (Damn, I hate lying on my back and changing an oil pan gasket, arghhhh)

Like to hear others diagnosis before doing anything.

Boaf
 
Verify actual oil pressure....the oe gauges are known to be not the most accurate.
Irrc the valves are the last place to see oil...low pressure could result in them not getting oil.
 
Dang! I just noticed in your sig that this is 72-F. Was that sig always there? I guess it was post #2 that led me to believe it was a 2F with different oil routing so I guess my other posts don’t make sense. Sorry!

But I still think you could spin the oil pump with a drill to track down the issue, so you do not have to keep running the engine without adequate oil up top.
 
Dang! I just noticed in your sig that this is 72-F. Was that sig always there? I guess it was post #2 that led me to believe it was a 2F with different oil routing so I guess my other posts don’t make sense. Sorry!

But I still think you could spin the oil pump with a drill to track down the issue, so you do not have to keep running the engine without adequate oil up top.
100% 2F head and motor. I need to park it at my house, and can start to further diagnose
 
Verify actual oil pressure....the oe gauges are known to be not the most accurate.
Irrc the valves are the last place to see oil...low pressure could result in them not getting oil.
Thanks Brian, yes agree on gauges. I am in the process of moving and need to locate my pressure tester. You and I are thinking the same thing. Oil Pump or delivery. I will park it (unfortunately need to drive it a few miles).
 
Dang! I just noticed in your sig that this is 72-F. Was that sig always there? I guess it was post #2 that led me to believe it was a 2F with different oil routing so I guess my other posts don’t make sense. Sorry!

But I still think you could spin the oil pump with a drill to track down the issue, so you do not have to keep running the engine without adequate oil up top.
you would need to have the cam lined up correctly otherwise you will not see oil to the valve train at all.
 
you would need to have the cam lined up correctly otherwise you will not see oil to the valve train at all.

By cam, you mean the Valve train hole? Pretty sure I got that right, but it's easy to check. Guess check the easy, then work the difficult.
 
100% 2F head and motor. I need to park it at my house, and can start to further diagnose

Ok, 2F. So, my points & questions in post #24 should make sense.

Only one rocker pedestal has an oil passageway in it. If that particular pedestal got swapped with another one on re-assembly, there would be no oil flow. Also, I’m not sure if it is possible to install the rocker shaft when it is swapped end for end, but if it can and did happen, there would be no oil flow.

With the rocker assembly removed, you can see if the right pedestal lines up with the oil outlet in the head.
(F.5 in the pic but your 2F should appear the same)

HeadOil 01.webp
 
Ok, 2F. So, my points & questions in post #24 should make sense.

Only one rocker pedestal has an oil passageway in it. If that particular pedestal got swapped with another one on re-assembly, there would be no oil flow. Also, I’m not sure if it is possible to install the rocker shaft when it is swapped end for end, but if it can and did happen, there would be no oil flow.

With the rocker assembly removed, you can see if the right pedestal lines up with the oil outlet in the head.
(F.5 in the pic but your 2F should appear the same)

View attachment 2529798
I think you are right. Will pull it off tonight or tomorrow if it doesn't rain. Thanks. I know oil flowed before the head replacement. We'll get it done.
 
I think you are right. Will pull it off tonight or tomorrow if it doesn't rain. Thanks. I know oil flowed before the head replacement. We'll get it done.

Well guess what, Cruiser Parts.net sent me a 1 F head, I am F%$#@* Pissed. Not only that I did not see it but I specifically asked for a 2F head. They even barked that I sent back a 1F. Hell is coming to dinner!!!. Thanks Brian. Really, this just sucks. Have you ever changed a head in a parking lot???

They are nice people, just wish we both saw this before the frustration.
 
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Now I’m a bit confused, but that’s easy for me. You installed a 1F head on a 2F and therefore have had no oil to the top end, for how many miles (at least a 1000)? And it didn’t blow up?
 

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