Builds V8 (SBC) to V8 (Gen III Vortec) swap in my FJ60...

[Str8Razor]

A/C Lines: Gotta be custom. I'll probably upgrade my condensor as others have done (from the Toyota original to a parallel flow (16x26) condensor. If I'm having lines built anyway, might as well get the benefit of the better condensor style for my hot and humid state (Florida).
Your build looks sweet, where are you getting your a/c lines made, I have checked with a few places around here to no avail, lines are just part of what i need, would entertain a different drier and coil as well like you mentioned in your post...i'm struggling with the a/c for mine and it needs it bad.....those manifolds look sweet...can't wait to see your swap complete...

 

[orion]

Your build looks sweet, where are you getting your a/c lines made, I have checked with a few places around here to no avail, lines are just part of what i need, would entertain a different drier and coil as well like you mentioned in your post...i'm struggling with the a/c for mine and it needs it bad.....those manifolds look sweet...can't wait to see your swap complete...

Thanks. I read your build when trying to plan mine out...nice setup.

For the A/C lines: There's a place in downtown Jacksonville that *supposedly* does custom lines and A/C work for hotrods and such. The kind of place that's been around for 50 years, and requires you to be there and line up at 7am to be in the queue for the work they will do that day.

I don't have any first hand experience with them, I'm hoping they live up to their reputation.

If they are reasonable $$$, I thought about having a second set of lines made to sell here (not to make a bunch of money, but to help somebody out). I'm probably going to check them out early next year...once the swap is done, and I have a bunch of miles on it. As long as I have A/C by April...I'll be good to go for the warmer weather!

- Brian

 

[Elbert]

on ac for my truck I bought the GM hose that mates to the compressor so I had a good secure connection there (hose matches the donor vehicle setup and is GM OEM), and then had the ends modified to match the connections on the truck, in my case I have a 5.7 but the logic is the same. So on the compressor side no modification....on the non-compressor end of the hose...gm fittings removed and appropriate fittings that mate with the truck installed on the GM hose assembly.

 

[orion]

^^^ That's my plan. Buy the OEM hose for the compressor...and have them lengthen / use new ends / etc...so make it complete.

I'll likely utilize an OEM Toyota drier, unless it makes more sense to use something else along with custom lines (and a new, non-factory condensor).

...

UPDATE:

Making progress on the exhaust. Didn't have a lot of time to work on it this weekend, but got the drivers side run back off the manifold 4-feet. The pass. side is more complicated...has to go up and around the transfer case.

I have that part done:

(the rear of this pipe is actually rotated a little towards the outside of the truck...can't see that in this pic)

I'm using all 2.25" mandrel bends, and taking my time in squaring up the ends so they meet all the way around, and are cleaner / easier to weld.

After this piece, it goes back another foot or so, then turns 90-degrees, goes over the rear driveshaft (using a 45-bend as the "hump", for clearance), then turns 90-degrees back and joins the drivers side at the Y-pipe.

I have those pipes/bends cut, but they need to be tacked together (maybe tonight?).

The whole front section (everything up to the Y-pipe) can come off as one piece, after dropping the trans cross member and unbolting it from the manifolds.

After all this work, putting the muffler on will be a quick 15 minute job...then I can put a temporary turn-down on it, put the radiator back in, and take it for a spin! I'll finish the tailpipe once I clean up a few other loose ends, and after a test drive!

So close...but yet so far (I just need a good ~2hrs of uninterrupted time work on it!!!).

More pics later this week, hopefully of the completed exhaust! Maybe I'll drive it on Friday or Saturday??!?!?

- Brian

 

[orion]

Made a little more progress last night, got the rest of the pass. side exhaust fitted and tacked together:

(this pic makes it look closer, but that pipe is 3-4" behind the transfer case)

It's also tacked together at the y-pipe, and I bent some 1/4" rod for a hanger, using the OEM muffler mounts.

I'll pull the whole thing off in one piece tonight and finish all the welds.

- Brian

 

[gregnash]

Looking good dude, keep up the good work.

 

[Elbert]

Made a little more progress last night, got the rest of the pass. side exhaust fitted and tacked together:

(this pic makes it look closer, but that pipe is 3-4" behind the transfer case)

It's also tacked together at the y-pipe, and I bent some 1/4" rod for a hanger, using the OEM muffler mounts.

I'll pull the whole thing off in one piece tonight and finish all the welds.

- Brian

you may want to consider some exhaust wrap on the exhaust pipe up around the transfer case since it comes close to the floor.....I know I am, since my exhaust routing is similar. I removed the carpet on my truck....and this area does get hot (floor pan).

 

[orion]

you may want to consider some exhaust wrap on the exhaust pipe up around the transfer case since it comes close to the floor.....I know I am, since my exhaust routing is similar. I removed the carpet on my truck....and this area does get hot (floor pan).

Good call...

I was thinking of wrapping the pipe where it passes next to the transfer case as well, but I didn't want to use the regular "exhaust heat wrap", for fear of it retaining moisture (mud?) and rotting the pipe.

Looking for the best solution...

...

I did get the whole front section of the exhaust pulled off last night, and I made some headway on the finish welds.

Here's a couple bad pic (camera phone and low light..sorry)

Really happy with the final fit and finish of this piece.

I'll finish welding it tonight, and get it back on (hopefully).

Making progress every evening, 45 minutes at a time!

If all goes well - First drive on Saturday!

- Brian

 

[cruisermatt]

Looks great! I would put a 4" or so section of the braided flex tube somewhere on just one of the individual downpipes.

 

[orion]

You forget about the little things that eat up time - Like putting the radiator / core support back in, along with the hood latch and brace. Seems like I spent half my available time to work on it, piecing that back together last night!

Anyway, I got the radiator back in, and the lower hose (part number I found on here) fits damn near perfect, with a small section cut off.

GATES 22310 or DAYCO 71903 is the one to use.

Here's where you cut:

And it fits like so:

Really couldn't ask for a better fit. Thanks to whoever posted that part number on 'Mud in the past. Saved me a bunch of time measuring stuff at the parts store.

Tonight, it's getting the muffler on...and maybe working on the upper radiator hose (I've bought 2, both OEM Vortec / Chevy upper hoses) and neither is worth using, IMO. They are 1.25", which is perfect for the water neck on the engine...but do not work with the 1.5" radiator inlet.

Might drive it this weekend...hopefully!

...

Oh, and a shot of my "work area"...which is half of a 2-car garage:

There is an additional 4ft (to the wall) on the drivers side of the truck, which is where my workbench, toolbox, compressor, etc...all live, but most the real work happens in the driveway just in front of the truck.

Not sure why I'm posting this...I guess I took the pic, so I figured I would share.

- Brian

 

[scrapdaddy]

this area does get hot (floor pan).

I've been thinking of rerouting my exhaust your way (over the driveshaft) and thought maybe a heat shield would help. I'm in agreement with Cruisermatt, put in a flex tube, so nothing cracks.

Good job on everything!

 

[orion]

Looks great! I would put a 4" or so section of the braided flex tube somewhere on just one of the individual downpipes.

I'm in agreement with Cruisermatt, put in a flex tube, so nothing cracks.

Good job on everything!

Thanks, guys.

I considered a flex section, but decided against it for 2 reason:

1) Seems like a point of failure / leaks over time.

2) I did a lot of looking at Google images of V8 hot rod and sportscar exhaust setups (mid pipes, y-pipes, whatever you want to call them) and almost none of them have a flex section, OEM or aftermarket. I think those guys spent the R&D money and decided it wasn't necessary...so I'm following suit.

My guess: The overall length of the piece will allow for expansion / contraction from heat (lots of pipe to allow for a little movement).

Time will tell, and I'll correct myself here if something cracks.

...

For an update:

Got the muffler on. The tailpipe is not finished, but I had to drive it. So I did the hard part coming out of the muffler (routing it between the frame and rear shock)...then just "punted" and did a 90-degree turndown so it was driveable!

Here's a pic:

Muffler is a Magnaflow, 2.5" in/out, 5x9 oval, and I believe it's the 18" long version (IIRC).

I used a Walker 'band clamp' to connect the rear section and muffler, so I can remove it easily if necessary.

It's actually a little too quiet, IMO...we'll see if it breaks in / burns in and gets a little more rumble to it. Thought I can hardly complain about it being civilized...haha. That, and the tailpipe might also change the sound (I have +3-feet of 2.5" tubing to connect to make a proper tailpipe).

After this, I pieced together an upper radiator hose from the OEM Tahoe hose I said I wasn't going to use. I don't like it - It's too long, is touching the air intake, and overall doesn't fit well...but it works. It will be changed, however.

This was late Saturday night, and I was able to start it up, let it idle, and rev the motor a few times...that was so sweet, after 3 months of nights and weekends dedicated to this swap!

Sunday morning I drove it out of the garage and down the street...and it stumbles, a LOT. It was raining, and I was nearly out of gas (and was hoping that might be my low RPM stumble / issue)...so I parked it until I could get back to wrenching later in the day.

He it is, getting a rain bath to rinse off the dust:

(sorry for the filtered pic)

...

Back to the stumbling / lack of low end - After adding 10gal of fuel, it still did it...maybe worse, on the drive home from the gas station.

I started checking things and found 2 of the plug wires not securely 'clipped' into the coils..and hoped that was it.

A test drive said no.

Frustrated, and after looking over coolant temps and other vitals...I decided to just hammer on it, see if it could pull through the revs (an "Italian tuneup" of sorts...the "blow out the carbon" idea...haha).

And it screams!

Above 2000rpm, it pulls hard and sounds great. It idles smooth, but I'm still leaning towards a vacuum leak from the booster connection (3/8" Toyota connection, 1/2" GM hose..with a crappy temp connection to test drive the truck). Makes sense, as that would be obvious at light load / part throttle...and not at WOT.

So I parked it last night, and I'll get back to troubleshooting later today.

My guesses, in order of likelihood:

Vac leak
Dead 02 sensors
Fuel pump pre-filter getting clogged (gunk from the tank? Not sure, not likely)
Cam position sensor is wonky (also not likely, but we'll see)

So I have some stuff to look at and test...will report back.

But overall, the motor is solid, the new clutch/clutch fork/rod setup works great (I didn't post those details earlier - it was a saga. Crappy AA clutch slave bracket, crappy clutch rod setup by the PO, had to convert the hydraulic line to a banjo fitting for manifold clearance, etc...).

Anyway - After sorting out this little bug, I'll be cruisin' again!!!!

- Brian

 

[gregnash]

Very nice dude... So did you keep the OBDII plug? Is the engine throwing any codes or you just didn't get quite that far last night and just wanted to play a bit....

 

[orion]

Very nice dude... So did you keep the OBDII plug? Is the engine throwing any codes or you just didn't get quite that far last night and just wanted to play a bit....

Yes - I should have mentioned that.

I did wire in a OEM OBD-II plug, and I'm using an old 'ScanGauge II' to monitor coolant temp and RPM (haven't installed my new AutoGauge tach). It reads codes, and I had one: P0507 (idle too high)

I assumed it was from the first startup where there may or may not have been a sensor unplugged, and it didn't have a radiator or coolant, etc...but maybe it was more recent (?)

Either way, it doesn't seem to point to anything useful (except it *might* point to a vacuum leak).

That's part of the reason I'm starting with the brake booster vac hose tonight.

After more pondering, I think it really could be a fuel pressure issue (too low)...except the running well at WOT + higher RPM's (but I don't have enough miles on it to really tell).

??? - Brian

 

[orion]

Well, I've ruled out a vacuum leak - And after further testing, it will predictably and consistently run great if you "floor it".

That is to say - It lugs along with an intermittent misfire / lack of acceleration...at any RPM (worse in lower RPMs). But if you go over 60-70% throttle, it all of the sudden just takes off (you can feel the PCM kind of switch over, and then it runs great).

Anyway, I drove it to Lowe's last night, to get some miles on it and see if it would throw a code:

...and had a P0134 when I got home (Primary O2, Bank 1)

Given all of the above, I believe all of this is related to open loop / closed loop operation. Think the O2 sensors are d-e-a-d. They are ignored at WOT, so it makes sense that it runs so well when they are taken out of the equation.

I've read that you can just unplug them on a Chevy (to test) and it will just run open loop (rather than look at the O2's for the fuel trim). That will be my very first thing to test tonight.

Anyway, I'm posting all this diagnostic info in case someone else runs into a similar problem with their swap.

I've never had such troubles with O2 sensors...but I guess it all makes sense, here.

Thanks for following along. I'll post more when I know more.

- Brian

 

[Str8Razor]

My fuel tank and pre-filter was full of garbage when I first got mine going again (there's pix in my thread), I think we went thru 2 or 3 inline pumps before we got a good one, it was very frustrating but it all worked out.....you're in the home stetch now.....congrats man!!

 

[gregnash]

Is this why I have seen recommendations to do the in-tank pump versus an external? Seems like the external become problematic for many, especially on the Vortex/LS engines but not so much on the SBC/TBI engines...

@orion did you go with an in-tank pump or external?

 

[scrapdaddy]

Anyway, I drove it to Lowe's last night

Nice feeling, seems like you have a handle on the small issues. Good Job!

 

[tmxmotorsports]

@gregnash I would recommend anyone doing this swap go with an intank pump after dealing with the external pump issues on @SharpasMarbles swap on his 60 I know he is going that route now nothing like driving a badass truck wondering when the damn pump is going to stop working. It doesn't seem like he is having the same issues we did @SharpasMarbles yours ran ran fine until it was WOT then it would cavate and lose power.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

It is still worth checking and replacing the prefilter and checking any of the factory rubber lines to see if they are pinching off from the suction of the pump that was also one of the issues that we had.