Builds V8 (SBC) to V8 (Gen III Vortec) swap in my FJ60...

[MANUCHAO]

There is (max/min distance you should follow) if you are planning on keeping it 50 states smog legal...
As Elbert stated keeping it as close as possible to stock would be your best bet.....

My Cats are about 11" to 13" from EM with pre and post 02 sensors.

My $0.02

 

[orion]

^^^ Smog and emissions are a non-issue here in FL...and my rear O2's are removed / deleted from the PCM.

However, I put the primary O2's as close to the manifolds as possible. The exhaust exits the manifolds, turns 90-degrees to go back and under the truck...and I put both O2 sensors in right where the exhaust tubing starts to run straight back. Probably 12" from the manifold exit, at the most.

...

The O2 codes popped up again last night (P0135 + P0155), so I'm going to toss in a new pair of AC Delco O2 sensors, see if that cures the issue. I'll post the results once I have them installed.

- Brian

 

[Shes Mad]

@orion
I've read your whole post and it is very helpful. I'm just getting started. A couple of questions.

1) What did you use for a fuel regulator. I see the pump, but not a regulator

2) Did you use the factory fuel return line from the tank straight to the engine, and adapt at the engine? I am putting in an LM7 from a 2001 truck.

3) What did you do with the OEM vapor line

3) I have an F body oil pan, pickup and baffle. I assume that will work? Similar to the Hot Rod pan.

4) Steam adapter and EGR blockoffs. Do you have part numbers you used.

5) What did you do for TC shifter. I'm going with a 4L60, so the stock one will not have the 4 speed bracket like OEM. Reverse light will be a challenge also, as it is on the shift shaft on the trans

I'm just getting started, so some of these ? may have been answered along the way

Thanks

 

[orion]

1) What did you use for a fuel regulator. I see the pump, but not a regulator

2) Did you use the factory fuel return line from the tank straight to the engine, and adapt at the engine? I am putting in an LM7 from a 2001 truck.

3) What did you do with the OEM vapor line

3) I have an F body oil pan, pickup and baffle. I assume that will work? Similar to the Hot Rod pan.

4) Steam adapter and EGR blockoffs. Do you have part numbers you used.

5) What did you do for TC shifter. I'm going with a 4L60, so the stock one will not have the 4 speed bracket like OEM. Reverse light will be a challenge also, as it is on the shift shaft on the trans..

1) Mine is a return-style system, so the factory regulator (vacuum referenced regulator) is located on the fuel rail.

2) I used the factory feed into the fuel pump, and then to the fuel rail. The factory return was also used, as a return from the fuel rail. I'm guessing your LM7 is a returnless system?

3) It's vented in the engine bay (with a small filter at the vent end). Previous owner did that when he put the SBC in, and I haven't had a need to address it any further.

4) I assume so - I got away with the OEM oil pan on the 4.8. My truck has enough lift (OME + shackle reversal = almost 4.5" over stock), and I put the engine high enough that I don't think I need anything smaller. I did add a 2" aluminum extension to the bump stops, to limit the up travel *just in case*.

5) Transfer case shifter was left untouched. The trans and T-case are in their factory location...my motor is adapted to the Toyota running gear by way of a Ranger 'torque splitter', which moves the engine forward...so the factory stuff is in the original location.

Hope that helps.

...

For an O2 sensor update: New "AC Delco Professional" O2's did the trick. No more CEL's, and the engine in happy.

I took the truck to 'Hard Rock' in Ocala yesterday, to test it out...and the new power and torque is really awesome. More on that in the next post...

- Brian

 

[orion]

So, as I mentioned above...took the truck to Hard Rock in Ocala (missed the meet up / Turkey Trot by a couple days, such is life!).

Wanted to do another shakedown, climb some steep hills...make sure everything was working as it should.

Here's a poser pic - I had to add a Vortec badge:

Since the last time I was there: Swapped the motor, fixed my t-case shifter (it was being knocked / pulled out of 4 by the boot), put the lower leaf spring back in my front springs (+1"), added a front driveshaft spacer (plus bump stop extensions to keep it from bottoming out in the t-case), extended rear shackles (to match the front lift)...and a bunch of other little odds and ends.

And with the new motor, sorted suspension, and rear locker...this truck feels unstoppable! I climbed hills in 2-low that should have required 4WD, and romped over some rocks that should have been avoided until I have sliders...and it all seemed "too easy".

Here's a few pics:

(headed down into one of the quarries)

(climbing back up and out)

It was a good way to spend a day off work.

But, it's not all rainbows and unicorns...I found out that I had a couple (small) issues to address.

The main one - Crawl speed "bucking". It's 100% NOT related to the power delivery or motor...it's got to do with the driveline. Slack, play, something loose, maybe a crappy trans mount coupled with the near-solid motor mounts...maybe U-joints...not sure. Gonna start investigating this evening, see what I can come up with. Basically, if I try to crawl along at 1000rpm, and have to hit the gas (or let off)...it start in a cycle of "bucking" or "jerking" until I push in the clutch. It's done it a few times in parking lot situations in the last couple weeks, but it's magnified 10x off road.

The other issue is less of an issue, more of an "oops" on my part. I mentioned before that I cobbled together an upper radiator hose to get it on the road. Well, it bit me in the ass (do it right, or do it twice!) as it rubbed the alternator pulley and sprayed a gallon of coolant (well, 95% water mix) all over the engine bay:

I should have seen it coming, but it was working so well on the road...I thought I'd make it through one day off road without trouble.

It was a simple fix to get back out of the woods - Duct tape + a plastic bottle one of my daughters found on the side of the trail. I always carry an extra gallon of water, and I needed nearly all of it to top off the radiator...but it's why I trailered the FJ60 (even though we were only 1.5hrs from home).

Anyway, thanks for reading.

I'd appreciate any input on the bucking issue, as I think there's a bunch of reasons it might do that...could use to narrow it down a little.

- Brian

 

[Shes Mad]

1) Mine is a return-style system, so the factory regulator (vacuum referenced regulator) is located on the fuel rail.

2) I used the factory feed into the fuel pump, and then to the fuel rail. The factory return was also used, as a return from the fuel rail. I'm guessing your LM7 is a returnless system?

3) It's vented in the engine bay (with a small filter at the vent end). Previous owner did that when he put the SBC in, and I haven't had a need to address it any further.

4) I assume so - I got away with the OEM oil pan on the 4.8. My truck has enough lift (OME + shackle reversal = almost 4.5" over stock), and I put the engine high enough that I don't think I need anything smaller. I did add a 2" aluminum extension to the bump stops, to limit the up travel *just in case*.

5) Transfer case shifter was left untouched. The trans and T-case are in their factory location...my motor is adapted to the Toyota running gear by way of a Ranger 'torque splitter', which moves the engine forward...so the factory stuff is in the original location.

Hope that helps.

...

For an O2 sensor update: New "AC Delco Professional" O2's did the trick. No more CEL's, and the engine in happy.

I took the truck to 'Hard Rock' in Ocala yesterday, to test it out...and the new power and torque is really awesome. More on that in the next post...

- Brian

The LM7 has 3 lines to it. Supply, vent I assume and a return from the fuel rail. I didn't realize it also had a regulator, so I am good there. I still have the vapor can that was in the truck, so I will just use that for venting.

PSI said I could use a corvette regulator, and cap the return off the fuel rail, but if I don't need a regulator, then I'm good!

I guess I will have to figure out the transfer case shifter. I really wanted to keep it stock, so I will have to figure something out

 

[On Point]

dang dude! just saw this thread. very nice work! when you gonna take it out to jennings?

 

[orion]

^^^ Thanks. Next trip is going to be up North...Tennesee / Alabama area. Jennings will probably be next Summer (want to take my kids kayaking out there).

...

Small Update:

Upper radiator hose was an easy fix...cut it shorter on each end by an inch or so, and cut out the area that got sliced. Put that back together with a piece of 1.25" OD tubing. Good to go.

Still not the final routing that I would like (long term), but it's semi-permanent...and no chance of expanding and hitting any pulleys now.

As for the bucking issue - Looks like that was a loose motor mount bolt. Didn't think that a little slack there would translate to the bucking I experienced...but after tightening the through bolt, plus re-torquing the 4 bolts where it bolts to the block...it's 90% gone.

I believe the rest is the slack from the Ranger overdrive. There's a slight amount of movement at the input shaft of the overdrive unit, plus the little bit of slack in the H42 trans...and I think that in the right scenario, it allows for some back-n-forth "slack" that can cause bucking at really slow speeds(when you're coming on and off the throttle). I'll know for sure next time I get it off road.

EDIT: Almost forgot - My front wheel weights have always been too close to the tie rod boot (15x8 Pro Comps, I believe they are 3.75" BS). I need to get them re-balanced, and I'm sure they will need a weight or 2 on that inside lip of the rim. To that end, I picked up some Trail Gear spacers...1" for up front, and 1.25" for the rear. T

The rear track width is .5" overall narrower than the front, so this evens it out. Small aesthetic difference, but it's always bugged me.



- Brian

 

[On Point]

^^^ Thanks. Next trip is going to be up North...Tennesee / Alabama area. Jennings will probably be next Summer (want to take my kids kayaking out there).




- Brian

You know Jennings State forest is in Middleburg? It's like a 20 minute drive.

 

[orion]

You know Jennings State forest is in Middleburg? It's like a 20 minute drive.

Yeah - I just meant that there's not much out there, as compared to the mountains and foothills 8-9hrs North of here. Looks like a nice place to kayak/canoe, though...and we're planning on going when it warms up next Spring. That's all.

Unless you know somewhere out there with more than dirt roads (?)...

- Brian

 

[orion]

Update time...

I'll be quick, just hit the highlights: Truck is running great, and I'm tinkering with small odds and ends as time allows.

The fuel pump was starting to whine/cavitate, and it was from a clogged pre-filter:

I believe I knocked a bunch of silt loose when I dropped the tank to replace the rubber fuel lines. Threw a new one on there, and it's good to go.

Then "Santa" brought me a winch. I installed a winch plate a year ago when I did the shackle reversal, but never got around to buying the winch.

It's a Smittybilt X20 / 10k / synthetic line.

I trimmed the (already modified) OEM front bumper and mounted it:

Wired it up, wrapped the line...and voila!...I can get myself out of trouble.

(also added a 'Mud sticker, and took the Lamin-X off the fog lights)

Then I drug the truck back to Alabama to visit family over New Years, and we went wheeling at Hawk Pride Offroad:

(@ufg8r on the left, a clean / nearly stock blue 60 next to him, modded 4Runner, and me on the right)

Was a really nice day, and we had some fun.

Got to use my winch when I hung the rear axle on a small boulder:

(trail looks really tame here...it was much more exciting behind my truck in this pic!)

However, as we finished up for the day, my brakes were fading to the floor when I pressed really hard...dead master cylinder.

Grabbed a rebuilt AISIN and swapped it on last week:

Brakes are still a little "off"...but they are getting better as I drive it more. Likely a few tiny bubbles working their way out.

Anyway, that's the last month of my FJ60 adventure...still loving the Vortec powerplant.

- Brian

 

[cruisermatt]

Awesome. Is Hawk Pride worth the 10-hour drive from Orlando? I might try to make Mardi Krawl I'm just not sure if that small of a park is worth it

 

[orion]

Not sure if the park is worth it on it's own...as you said, it's not that big. It's great if you're local.

But 'Mardi Krawl' is...assuming you like good people, good food, beer drinking, and some pretty decent wheeling.

We went there this time because it was the closest park that was 1) open, and 2) not hosting a rock bouncer event.

- Brian

 

[Elbert]

that sure does look like a lot of trash in the fuel filter.....and I mean a lot....I think you need to pull the tank and get it cleaned....

 

[orion]

that sure does look like a lot of trash in the fuel filter.....and I mean a lot....I think you need to pull the tank and get it cleaned....

I would agree...

The new filter is clear, just like the one I posted...and so far, there's barely a hint of anything in it (maybe 100 miles so far, plus the day off road at Hawk Pride). So I'm watching it...and if it goes the same way...I'll be dropping/removing the tank, cleaning/sealing, and doing an in-tank fuel pump setup.

- Brian

 

[orion]

^^^ To follow up on the crap in my fuel filter...you guys got me worried!

I took a pic last week (Thursday night, when I was tinkering on the truck)...and figured I'd take another after a few miles, see if there was any appreciable increase in "crud" in the filter.

So here's last Thursday (this is the new one I put on just after Christmas...has maybe 100 miles + 6hrs of off-road "run time" on it) :

(and I noticed and fixed that clamp you see out of place on the middle-left)

Then this weekend I put about 100 more miles on the truck (went to St. Augustine Beach). Here's a pic from last night:

I'm thinking the nasty crud I caught in the first pre-filter was the crap that was in the OEM return line from the front of the truck. That was not hooked up with the carb'd SBC - It was sitting (with tape wrapped over the end) for 11 years (the 2F originally in this truck met it's end in 2005...original owner ran it out of oil). I hooked it up as the return from the fuel rail...and likely flushed all that crap into the tank. At least that's my working theory. I'll keep an eye on it going forward.

Sorry, lame update...probably more for posterity and my benefit.

...

One good pic from near the beach this weekend:

Truck ran great...!

71mph actual speed (60 as indicated on the speedo) was 2100RPM in 4th using the O/D. I got around 18-19mpg for the trip, from my very loose calculations (under 6 gallons for 100 miles...backroads + some interstate). Really happy with that.

Thanks for reading!

- Brian

 

[cruisermatt]

Want to come swamp it at Richloam mid-February?

 

[orion]

Quick update...nothing motor swap related, just general work on the truck.

Regarding the motor swap - Nothing to report! "No news is good news", as far as I'm concerned. Everything is working great.

Took it to a local mud hole for some playing around (my young daughters get a kick out of doing donuts!)...

(was still pretty clean here...hehe)

Anyway, I needed to circle back around to my suspension. I've been running some way-too-short front shocks since I bought the truck (they are Pro Comp, 8.5" travel, 21.75" overall)...and after the shackle reversal, I added some shock extenders to make them work. But they are less than ideal, for sure...and a mismatch to my rear OME Nitrochargers.

So I ordered some front OME's from Cruiser Outfitters (#60063...9.5" travel, 23.25" long overall). I was hoping to use them without the shock extender, and they fit...but offered only 1" of droop from ride height. No bueno.

I went ahead and retapped the 3/8"-24 thread on the female end of the 3" long shock extender to M10x1.25 to fit the OME threads...and they are now perfect for my truck. Overall, I gained nearly 2" of front wheel droop travel, and MUCH better shocks.

Then moved to the rear. My rear shackle bolts were too long by 1", so I cut that off for a cleaner look.

Before pic:

(think I forgot the after pic?)

And then I decided to remove the rear "spring isolator" that's not supposed to be reused with OME springs:

I knew I'd need some centering spacers (OME offers them, and maybe I should have picked some up front Cruiser Outfitters when I ordered shocks?!?!?!), but I didn't plan ahead.

The rear spring center pin is only 15mm OD, but the rear axle has a 25mm ID hole in it.

I figured I had something in my garage that would work - Turns out, I did...

Used a 1" OD nylon spacer (3/8" thick, and I drilled the center out to 5/8") sandwiched between 2 washers (also 1" OD, and drilled out to 5/8" ID).

Slipped that over the centering pin, and voila!

That's where I left it last night, will get back to it (and do the other side) tonight, hopefully.

This at least brings me to the point where I've un-fxxxed anything that wasn't done to my satisfaction by the PO!

Thanks for reading.

- Brian

 

[ufg8r]

Hmm...I wonder about nylon for that spacer. The OME ones are steel. The factory isolator had a steel ring IIRC.

 

[orion]

^^^ I worried about the same...but I figured the washers above and below the nylon bushing were handling the load.

It's a non-issue now, though. That setup was too tall (maybe just gunk in the hole / axle housing?)...so I switched to 3 washers stacked EDIT: 3/27/2017 - Switched to an aluminum spacer that I cut from a 1" OD / 3/8" ID piece of AL round stock I had in the "miscellaneous bin".

Worked great, and all metal (really kicking myself for forgetting to order the OME version when I bought shocks!).

Also had to spend some time figuring out a way to imitate the factory washer setup on the shocks...the flat washers used by the PO on the outside of the shock bushings were binding the shocks (not allowing twist). I found some concave washers in my nut and bolt stash...think they will work a lot better.

Ran out of time tonight...I'll have to finish up this weekend.

- Brian